The 30/30 option is not an aero option, at least not enough to make much diff at all. Nice training wheelset.
If you can afford it, go with the 90/60. It will be the fastest, and you won't be left wondering which you should have bought.
Another option would be the rear flo disc, and the 60 front (or 90 front). I personally wouldn't bother with the disc cover, which will cost you another $100 anyway, may as well put that $100 towards the 90/60 set, etc.
My .02
Cheers

2 thoughts:
1. It seems you're going fast enough to primarily see low yaw angles. Look at the drag data with that in mind.
2. You should think of what else you want to do with the wheels. For instance if road racing is on the radar, a 60 or 90 rear would be swell. However if you're only ever racing with a cover, why not stick with what you have or just get a 30?

I have owned a flo 60/90 combo for about a year now. I have only used them during the week before races and during races. I like to do sprints for the most part. I have zero complaints about the wheels. I run them with gp4000s and latex tubes at 110psi.

With that said, if I had to do it over again, I would but a disc instead of a 90. Since buying the wheels I have added an aerojacket cover because of the savings a disc provides. I also happen to feel the bike is more stable with the disc vs the 90, but that could just be me. The only reason I would buy the disc first now, is that I think it was silly to spend money on a nice wheel just to add a jacket, when I could have done the same on my training wheel and saved a ton of money.

However, if I wasn't so OCD and worry about a few seconds here and there, it would be was more convenient to just run the 90. No crackpipe, no taping, can travel with it on the back of the suv (can't with a disc), and the time saving is debatable at best. I have run my courses through bestbikesplit.com and often times it predicts the same or even quicker time with just the 90. Good luck.

This is great feedback, thanks. I was thinking about just going with a wheel cover for my existing set, but the ones I've looked at won't work with the Shimano sets (I have RS10). Hence my thought of going with a cheaper 30 for the back and slapping the cover on that.

Based on the comments it sounds like I could go with a 60 on the front and a 30 on the back with a wheel cover (still $250 cheaper than going with the disc). Is there really that much benefit/difference between a 30/wheelcover, 90 and a disc?

Going with a 60 on the front and a 30 on the back will look ridiculous even with a disc cover. Flo 30s are TRAINING WHEELS. Not race wheels. Get the 60/90 combo and be happy!

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Wrong

I use 60/60 on my bike. I was torn between the 90 on the back but pulled the trigger on the 60's. As somebody else mentioned, the tipping point was knowing what else I wanted these wheels for. I want to try more road races and crits, which I know a 90 is fine for. I went and watched a crit and there were a ton of 808's. I just wanted a tad more versatility so I picked the 60.

I don't have a cover yet, but will get one for next season. If I would have bought the 90 I for sure wouldn't have gotten a cover. Thus another tip toward 60. Either way, you can't go wrong with 60 or 90.

The ONLY issue is that FLO says the 60's can't be used on dirt roads. Not sure why since my Reynold's assault were my CX racing wheels.

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The curious task of economics is to demonstrate to men how little they really know about what they imagine they can design.

Since it's mostly low yaw, a disc cover will have less benefit over a deep rear. A 60/90 is a good all around combo for all conditions.

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TrainingBible Coaching
http://www.trainingbible.com

I'm racing sprints at similar speeds. Personally, if these were race wheels only then it would be 90 front and disk rear or 90 rear and diskcover. A 60 front if you don't think you can handle a 90 deep in high cross-winds that you may experience, you give up nothing on very low yaw days.

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<We all know that light travels faster than sound. That's why certain people appear bright until you hear them speak>

Another even cheaper option would be to get a 60 for the front and then get a rear you can cover - almost all wheels will work (except yours as you found). You can pick up a rear used very cheap.

What's considered low yaw? <5, <7.5, <10?

A diskcover on a 90 should have some really good benefits regardless of yaw. A Flo disk basically looks like a 90 with the center covered. It may not test the same as a Flo disk but likely is closer to the disk than the 90, same for the 60 being covered.

If the goal is to maximize aero it seems it would make sense to buy for the worst side of conditions (higher yaw's) and what one can handled up front.

23mph with a wind at 5 mph 90* is 12.6* yaw, at 45* 7.6*, 30* 5.2*. Where I race most often (coastal and central FL) these wind directions and speeds(+) are not uncommon for the spring and fall race days.

What I like about using a disk cover (or disk) is how it stabilizes the bike during high wind high yaw conditions.

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<We all know that light travels faster than sound. That's why certain people appear bright until you hear them speak>

most fastish men in sprint triathlons will be under 5deg of yaw almost all the time, which makes the Flo 30 an excellent budget buy.

money no object, of course, get a 60 or 90 front and a disc rear. Remember there are a couple free watts from discs/deeper wheels not shown on those drag charts from the watts to spin the wheel.

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Kat Hunter reports on the San Dimas Stage Race from inside the GC winning team
Aeroweenie.com -Compendium of Aero Data and Knowledge
Freelance sports & outdoors writer Kathryn Hunter

Nobody has ever regretted getting a better wheel set, but lots of people have buyer's remorse when they compromise their decision trying to save a couple bucks. Go 60/90 and live happily ever after.

My daily ride wheels are FLO 60/90. I have a Disc for longer course racing as well as the 30/30 combo.

My take, if you only have one combo, it's the 60/90 hands down. I had thought about going got a 90/90 combo, but in conversations with the folks at FLO, the 90/90 combo can be a big handful.

I haven't raced the Disc yet, but I have trained on the Timberman course with the 60/Disc combo and it's fast. The 60 up front handles wind well without making it something I need to really pay attention to / fight in crosswinds.

I picked up the 30/30 for my road bike but haven't finished building it up yet. I have ridden them on the Plasma and they're fantastic climbing wheels and very fast to spin up. You could certainly race them in Sprints and be very happy. For the money, they're fantastic.

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-Alex

Good question. We get this question a lot. What I tell almost everyone is the following. If I could only pick one wheelset as a triathlete, I'd have a 60/90. In fact, before I owned FLO, I had the equivalent of that wheelset. I think it offers the best combination of versatility and speed. By versatility I mean the following. Most people can handle a 60mm front wheel in most conditions. It also allows them to stay in the aerobars on windy days which is extremely important for aerodynamics. Yes, the 90 is a little bit faster, but it doesn't always allow some riders to stay in the bars on windy courses. It doesn't take long to lose the aero advantage offered by the 90 if you come out of the bars to control it.

As a rear wheel the 90 is great because it's quick and it can be used on any course. As you may know, some courses do not allow discs. From a stability/handling stand point, rear wheels don't really effect you in wind, so don't worry about that.

Now, if budget is a major concern then the 30s with a cover are a great choice. A poster said that our 30s aren't aero but that's not true. Comparing our 30s to a box section like the Mavic Open Pro shows they are lot more aero than that wheel. I'm not overly familiar with the RS10 but it appears to be a fairly "non-aero" wheel. No we haven't tested it, but what I'm saying is it's profile doesn't look like it was optimized to be aero. As a wheelset the 30s are great everyday training wheels and aero enough to help out on race day.

I hope that helps. If you have any other questions please let me know.

Take care,

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Chris Thornham
Co-Founder And Previous Owner Of FLO Cycling

Chris, I've read you've tested and I think recommend gp4000 tires as a good match for flo wheels and it's the tire of choice for me based on that recommendation. Do you guys happen to have a tire pressure chart based on rider weight similar to the one michelin put out? I've read you need less with flo rims, but as a 180 pounder I'm never too sure what to inflate them to. Based on the Michelin chart, my ride seems very harsh when I use that pressure with the flos.

Can I ask what pressure you are currently using? Also, harsh as in the tires are too stiff? Or harsh as in not enough air is allowing you to bang the rim? I'm hoping not the later ;)

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Chris Thornham
Co-Founder And Previous Owner Of FLO Cycling

116 psi is what I've tried based on Michelin chart. Harsh meaning, really bumpy. I've experimented a bit, but was looking for a more scientific recommendation. The ride quality improved at lower psi, but I always worry about losing speed at lower psi as well. Something along the lines of the Michelin chart but based on flo rims it what I was hoping for to kind of take the guess work out of it. Hopefully, this makes more sense.

I've been running 100 front / 105 rear on my FLO wheels. Been thinking about 110/115 but haven't gone there yet.

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-Alex

I don't have a specific chart but 116psi too high. We recommend customers ride our wheels between 80psi and 105psi. Since the internal rim volume is larger, you don't need as much pressure. Think of a MTB tire or car tire. They require much less pressure. There is math and physics behind the reasoning but you probably don't want to hear that.

You mentioned you are worried about slowing down with lower pressures but if you are feeling harshness that can be much worse. You actually start to bounce around on the road and that kills your rolling resistance in a hurry. I'd recommend starting at 105 and working your way down. Since you seem to like higher pressures, find the highest pressure that removes the harshness you are feeling and stick there.

Does that make sense?

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Chris Thornham
Co-Founder And Previous Owner Of FLO Cycling

Not aries33, but I for one would like to see the physics and math behind this. If you don't want to clutter the thread with geekiness, feel free to PM me.

Definitely makes sense... Any idea what psi is the sweet spot for a 155lb rider on the 60/90 60/Disc combo?

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-Alex

Thanks for all the input on this topic, I went ahead and snagged myself a 60/90 combo in order 14 today :)

Congrats, they're fantastic. If you decide you want to go with Veloplugs instead of tape, you want the Yellow plugs.

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-Alex