in general terms,

more supple, lower coeficint of friction, better ride quality, dont come off when you get a flat, take higher psi.

*warning- do this at your own risk!* In an emergency (or if spares are are unavailable) , tubulars can be ridden when flat. I read about this here on ST, thought it to be possibly urban legend, then found out two weeks ago that it can be done. Not very happy about doing it, but got back from the ride safely (about 10 kms) and at acceptable speed (22-35 kph, top end only because going downhill). No damage to rims. Again - I do NOT advise doing this.

And I rode back 4 mi to the start of a tt on a flatted front clincher at 20-30kph

Nice! I didn't know that's also doable with a clincher. The things I learn at ST....


ETA: Carbon clincher rims or aluminum? Just wondering if carbon clincher rims are strong enough to withstand this.

I flatted last year at Eagleman, didn't change it and rode out the last 6 miles. You do need to take corners very slow and you need to stay in the saddle but I still got a Kona slot.
Tublars are also lighter than clinchers.
They are a pain in the ass and more expensive.

true, if they are not glued too well. I glue mine pretty well so it takes me a while to rip them off.

Did it ruin your clincher? What about the rim - any nicks or damage? What kind of rim was it?

Mike

do detectable damage. roads were pretty smooth. was a carbon clincher too. I wasn't going to walk 4 miles. tossed tire afterward even though flat was a valve stem issue. it did not feel any different that the flatted tubular rear I once road 3 miles on. this is not to say it is a good idea to do. rather pay attention to what is happening. I probably should have walked since they did not let my restart count.(rulz iz rulz) I found the carbon clinchers from this unnamed company to be rather durable. had a double flat on a training ride once(elite usac tt course) when I could not see a 6"x24" x6" deep pothole hidden in the shadows of a bridge on a different set and no issues, later, same set got hit by a car, well I was while using them anyway(still going)

I know it is anecdotal, but I also flatted a front clincher on a downhill curve once. no issue stopping, tire did not come off. conversely have seen a fully inflated clincher come off another's wheel in a crit. but the ease with which the tire mounted should have been an indication something was amiss.

That's too bad about the rulz. So you don't carry a spare tube and CO2 cannister? I've debated about whether or not to continue to carry the extra equipment in the TT races.

Mike

almost no one carries that in a TT under the belief that you flat and it's over. however, for me, that would not have been the case. i'd have had at least 2 min to spare to change the flat had I brought something. alas, it is moot

First three are not true or at least not true for the best clinchers. Clinchers are also generally more aerodynamic. The other true are more true, but who cares if they can take more psi if you are not racing on a velodrome? You can ride them when they are flat because the glue is keeping them on, compared to clincher that is depending on tire pressure to keep it attached.

Tubulars are a pain in the ass to install compared to clinchers. If you glue them to get equal rolling resistance to a clincher they are very hard to remove from the rim. Tubulars can also be very expensive if you flat, since you may need to replace a whole tire instead of just a tube. They are lighter than clinchers, but that is only if you are not carrying a spare.

How DO you fix a punctured tubular? I know you can use the 'fix a flat' spray stuff, but does that hold up over time?

You take the threads out where they are sewn together, patch the tube, then sew them back up.

For road racing I can maybe see a point to tubulars because of the weight savings. For TTs they don't make sense unless you are one of those guys who likes to use track tires on the road.

The one argument FOR tubulars is that if you don't mind dealing with tubulars, they are much cheaper used than the clincher equivalent. You can get an "as fast" setup for much less (even when factoring in the cost of tires).

10 speed tubulars are dirt cheap right now. Would I trade my tubular 900 for a clincher Super9? SURE! But I can buy a lot of fast tires for the ~$1000 premium I would have to pay in order to upgrade. The unfortunate thing is that there are many more good choices for fast clincher tires than fast tubular tires - especially after Schwalbe switched to butyl tubes.

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/kj

http://kjmcawesome.tumblr.com/

Clinchers need to "hook" on, whereas tubulars are glued

all of the advantages have been negated except for flat change speed and safety of riding after a flat

as someone else pointed out though, if you've got less $$$ and don't mind used, you can get some pretty amazing tubular wheels compared to clinchers