I remember that the batteries that were included with my set did not last very long (1 or 2 short rides) and the pedals were acting the way you are currently describing. I would change them out for a higher quality battery and see if that solves your issues as it solved mine. Also make sure the pedals are up to date through PowerTap's app if you haven't already to see if that may be causing an issue.

Use lithium batteries.

Do yours have the current battery caps? The original caps are a known cause for dropouts.

Not to hijack the original thread (said as he hijacks thread...), but how do you like the P1? I'd like something to quickly change between road and tri, and this seems to fit the bill more than the rest.

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Any run that doesn't include pooping in someone's front yard is a win.

They are awesome, I love them. My road bike is a 30 year old Pinarello, so nothing else would fit it. I swap the P1 between bikes in about 3 minutes.

Nice, thanks. I happily swapped my quarq several times between my road and CX bike last year, doesn't take much longer than five minutes with a torque wrench (assuming you don't have to clean after a muddy CX ride). But this year I'm contemplating three bikes sharing it (with the addition of tri) and three different ring combinations. Seems like too much.

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Any run that doesn't include pooping in someone's front yard is a win.

Too early to tell

Initial setup was easy and only heard good things the current problem concerns me a bit

I have 2 other power meters:

A powertap hub which I like the most. Unfortunately it's on a training wheel

Garmin vectors. Highly unstable and unreliable so that's why I got the p1

Definitely download the Powertap mobile app and make sure your firmware is up to date. That fixed the power spike problems for me. It's worth checking the battery caps as well. The originals were orange and *I think* the new ones are black.

Both the new and old caps are orange on the outside. The difference is that one is orange on the inside and the other is silver (natural aluminum color). I cannot remember which is new no which is old.

Ugh. Sorry for your $1200 loss. These pedals are the worst.

I never had a problem with my P1's until my last race of the year in Cartagena. Synced up in the morning with my Garmin, hopped on the bike out of T1 and no signal from the power meter. Tried to sync it back up and nothing. My Garmin could not find the sensor for the P1's. Pulled over at around mile 2 of the bike to see what I could do. Green lights on the pedals so they're powered on. Manually inputted the ANT+ ID to see if that would help. Nope. It just wasn't giving off a signal for my Garmin. Wasted enough race time (probably 2-3 minutes) dealing with it so just rode by RPE. Tried syncing it on the fly a couple of other times during the race and nothing.

New batteries, Garmin not set to power off, time out, or auto pause or anything like that. Worked fine the dozens of times used before. Worked fine the day before the race. Synced up just fine the morning of the race while setting up transition.

I haven't rode the bike since I returned so I don't know if it was just a one time issue or if I have an issue that PowerTap needs to fix and address. So I will withhold judgment for now. I was not a happy customer on December 4th.

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No problems whatsoever with the P1 pedals I have - I bought them pretty soon after first release. They seem reliable, power figures seem to compare well with my other power meters (which are Powertap hubs), they are very easy to switch between bikes and they seem robust.

Robert

This has been my experience as well. They work as they should. I did have to get new battery caps and use only lithium ion batteries, but I am heading into my second season with them and they seem to be just fine.

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I will use them for my new p5x and that bike is so super fast that it mentally makes up for any problem I might have with the power meter

I ordered a new set of caps and they were still orange but had a v2 on them. Us Canadians might get different stuff though.

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Mine worked flawlessly for 9 months then the right one started going crazy and finally wouldn't read anything. I got the new caps and started working again. The new caps are bigger, looks like the metal is not as soft and they are all orange, not half orange/silver

No, didnt try new batteries yet.

I also suspect it could be the garmin so will try tonight or over the weekend with another device.

I'm with the same problems, bought mine during black friday sales. Using mine with 920xt and also 3s setting...

I already bought some AAA lithium batteries to test, I'll report back as soon as they arrive.

Did you solve it?



Good luck, if the batteries work i'll let u know!

Please do!

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Any run that doesn't include pooping in someone's front yard is a win.

For those that have had them a while now.....any concerns about longevity? I always thought of pedals as a somewhat disposable item (maybe because I ride speedplays.....). Do they develop any kind of play/rocking that cannot be corrected with new cleats? Concerns about the contact points and/or bearings going?

Initially I had problems with power spikes - but this was solved 9 months ago with a software upgrade from PowerTap.

Also be aware that PowerTap strongly insist you use lithium batteries. Not sure why, but whenever I have had minor issues this is the first thing they ask. Since I started to use lithium batteries have really had zero issues.

I switch between 4 different bikes constantly - so the P1's are by far the easiest way to have one powermeter that works for every bike.

Finally, DC Rainmaker highly recommends P1 pedals and describes them as his "go to powermeter". He is the guru on all things tech for triathlon, he has heavily tested every powermeter, so if P1's are good enough for him, then definitely good enough for me.

I changed batteries and it helped even though they are not litium

I like Ray and I think he does fine work. I also understand that his audience is much bigger than triathlon, and certainly much bigger than the ST geeks so NO he doesn't need to write about it, but I feel it is important to mention anytime you have a discussion regarding pedals, that there is also a discussion about stack height. This reminds of me last week when I stopped over at GreenPlease's house and we a discussion on the P1 pedals, but the end result is I would like to see someone independently measure the stack height on the P1s as I don't necessarily believe it is only 14mm. For me and my own goals, anything that adds stack is a huge "no-no" and that will make me slower.

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I'd love to know why. I understand why you wouldn't want to add stack for fit reasons, is that what you mean by making you slower?

Wouldn't this be a non issue if, for example, you exclusively rode these pedals on road and tri bikes, and just swapped before every ride? In that case I would this a proper fit adjustment (once) would solve any issues.

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Any run that doesn't include pooping in someone's front yard is a win.