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Changing chainrings, cassette or both?
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Hi. Just a few questions about gearing. I just bought a set of HED H3, wheels, and now I'm spinning out half of the time. The wheels came with a 12-25 cassette and I run compact chainrings, so I'm not surprised. I have a set of 52-36 chainrings, but I'm not sure if I can put these on my quark without sending it in for a calibration as I'm changing to a different size. Changing the cassette to a 11-23 would probably be the second option, but I'm afraid I'd spin out anyways.
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Re: Changing chainrings, cassette or both? [jpanula] [ In reply to ]
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Switching from a 12 to an 11 is a bigger change than 50 to 53. Get the cassette.

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Re: Changing chainrings, cassette or both? [jpanula] [ In reply to ]
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I'd get 53 cause bigger rings are more efficient
Last edited by: eggplantOG: May 23, 15 0:03
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Re: Changing chainrings, cassette or both? [jpanula] [ In reply to ]
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See how you go with a new cassette first, they're cheao and you would have needed one before long anyway. Get an 11-25 (no point in sacrificing a climbing gear, unless you'll really never use it)

As somebody else said, the jump from 12t to 11t is pretty big (about 3mph faster before you spin out).

If that still doesn't cut it then fit the chain rings and roll the dice with a recalibration.

My 2 cents
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Re: Changing chainrings, cassette or both? [jpanula] [ In reply to ]
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the 52x12 will make you go about 30.5 mph at 90 rpm, while the 11 will net you another 3 mph.

You must be a real horse on the bike if you are riding over 30 mph half the time!
Last edited by: jroden: May 23, 15 4:18
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Re: Changing chainrings, cassette or both? [jpanula] [ In reply to ]
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Can you out spin an 50/12 on the flats for an entire race? If not, what is the issue?

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Re: Changing chainrings, cassette or both? [jpanula] [ In reply to ]
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Changing the cassette to a 11-23 would probably be the second option, but I'm afraid I'd spin out anyways.

Do this. You should be able to comfortably ride at ~35 mph with that gear, which won't be very often. If you are really spun out, then tuck and coast.

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Re: Changing chainrings, cassette or both? [rruff] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks for all your answers. This wasn't meant to be a humble brag, I'm no supercyclist. I had a big tailwind on one of the sections where i like to push it, and I got kinda frustrated whenever the road started sloping down. I never use the smaller gears, and it just feels silly to spin out when I would be able to put put more power.

I'll try to put on a different cassette and see if that is enough. Anyone know for sure about the chainrings. Quarq faq isn't rally giving a straight answer.
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Re: Changing chainrings, cassette or both? [jpanula] [ In reply to ]
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Cassette changes affect the gear ratios to a greater extent then do chainring changes. So the others are correct and change the cassette first.

If you have a newer Quarq, either the Elsa R or Riken R, chainring changes don't require recalibration. Any Quarq that has the OmniCal feature has this capability.

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Re: Changing chainrings, cassette or both? [jroden] [ In reply to ]
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jroden wrote:
the 52x12 will make you go about 30.5 mph at 90 rpm, while the 11 will net you another 3 mph.

You must be a real horse on the bike if you are riding over 30 mph half the time!

that is TOTALLY what I was thinking - Yikes! Forget the cassette; where do I get legs like his???

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Re: Changing chainrings, cassette or both? [manofthewoods] [ In reply to ]
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manofthewoods wrote:
jroden wrote:
the 52x12 will make you go about 30.5 mph at 90 rpm, while the 11 will net you another 3 mph.

You must be a real horse on the bike if you are riding over 30 mph half the time!


that is TOTALLY what I was thinking - Yikes! Forget the cassette; where do I get legs like his???

I'm not sure that horses are any good at riding bikes
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Re: Changing chainrings, cassette or both? [h2ofun] [ In reply to ]
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h2ofun wrote:
Can you out spin an 50/12 on the flats for an entire race? If not, what is the issue?

To the OP...ignore the useless info above. Get the 11-23 and crank it up on the flats and downhill sections. Lots of time to gain over people who coast.
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Re: Changing chainrings, cassette or both? [eggplantOG] [ In reply to ]
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eggplantOG wrote:
I'd get 53 cause bigger rings are more efficient

Explanation please.
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Re: Changing chainrings, cassette or both? [real_time] [ In reply to ]
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Said it in a gcn video, still highly doubt he's spinning that out
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Re: Changing chainrings, cassette or both? [real_time] [ In reply to ]
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real_time wrote:
eggplantOG wrote:
I'd get 53 cause bigger rings are more efficient


Explanation please.


Bigger gears have less frictional drivetrain losses than smaller ones, because the chain has to bend more to wrap around smaller gears. A 50x25 gear will require marginally fewer watts than a 34x17. This is the logic behind larger jockey pulleys, since they are the smallest gears in the drivetrain. Going from a 50T to a 53T (assuming gear inches stayed the same) would save <1/4W.



http://www.bikeradar.com/...oper-shifting-44016/





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Last edited by: Titanflexr: May 29, 15 18:22
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Re: Changing chainrings, cassette or both? [Titanflexr] [ In reply to ]
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Titanflexr wrote:
real_time wrote:
eggplantOG wrote:
I'd get 53 cause bigger rings are more efficient


Explanation please.


Bigger gears have less frictional drivetrain losses than smaller ones, because the chain has to bend more to wrap around smaller gears. A 50x25 gear will require marginally fewer watts than a 34x17. This is the logic behind larger jockey pulleys, since they are the smallest gears in the drivetrain. Going from a 50T to a 53T (assuming gear inches stayed the same) would save <1/4W.



http://www.bikeradar.com/...oper-shifting-44016/







Very interesting and totally true!

But, if you're going to marginalize gains (which is important to compete at the highest levels of the sport) please present with all of the factors that are associated with the equipment. For example, I would assume that you would want to include a comparison of 'moment of inertia' data between the larger and smaller chainrings, as well as friction loses relative to cross-chaining a 50x25 as opposed to a relatively straight chain-line of a 34x17, etc. Otherwise, it's misleading. I'm very interested to hear the results!

I'm guessing that there is virtually no energy savings to speak of (or at least none that 99.9999% of us should worry about) to be had. Even your example quotes the energy savings as less than 1/4 watt. Which may as well be so close to zero that it shouldn't ever be incorporated into any criteria that one should use when deciding upon chainrings. But, that's just my opinion.
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Re: Changing chainrings, cassette or both? [real_time] [ In reply to ]
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real_time wrote:
Titanflexr wrote:
real_time wrote:
eggplantOG wrote:
I'd get 53 cause bigger rings are more efficient


Explanation please.


Bigger gears have less frictional drivetrain losses than smaller ones, because the chain has to bend more to wrap around smaller gears. A 50x25 gear will require marginally fewer watts than a 34x17. This is the logic behind larger jockey pulleys, since they are the smallest gears in the drivetrain. Going from a 50T to a 53T (assuming gear inches stayed the same) would save <1/4W.



http://www.bikeradar.com/...oper-shifting-44016/








Very interesting and totally true!

But, if you're going to marginalize gains (which is important to compete at the highest levels of the sport) please present with all of the factors that are associated with the equipment. For example, I would assume that you would want to include a comparison of 'moment of inertia' data between the larger and smaller chainrings, as well as friction loses relative to cross-chaining a 50x25 as opposed to a relatively straight chain-line of a 34x17, etc. Otherwise, it's misleading. I'm very interested to hear the results!

I'm guessing that there is virtually no energy savings to speak of (or at least none that 99.9999% of us should worry about) to be had. Even your example quotes the energy savings as less than 1/4 watt. Which may as well be so close to zero that it shouldn't ever be incorporated into any criteria that one should use when deciding upon chainrings. But, that's just my opinion.

Yes, in the example crosschaining would more than eclipse the difference. The post was just to explain the concept that larger cog systems have lower frictional losses than smaller ones (at the same ratio). Larger systems are also heavier and less aerodynamic. I'd guess that the aero impact of going from a 50T to a 53T is greater than the frictional savings. That being said, all of these are so small that choosing the proper gearing from a biomechanical standpoint should be the guiding factor in chainring/cassette selection.

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