If it were me shopping in that price range, I would look to get a used bike in good condition. You can get more bike for the money. Regarding your two listed choices, I rode a Fuji D6 for a couple of years and recently switched to a Cervelo P5. Obviously no comparison between the two. The Fuji was a great bike for the money, and I paid about what you're looking at spending, but I've switched all of my bikes to Cervelo. Clearly I prefer the Cervelo.

So....look around here for a P2/P3 would be my suggestion, but there are a lot of good used bikes around in that price range.

Check out this thread. I've bought/sold stuff and they are great to work with:

http://forum.slowtwitch.com/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=5151315;page=1;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;mh=25;

There really is no debate here between these two, get the Cervelo.

Cervelo. Fuji is just not competitive compared to a Cervelo

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Make Inside Out Sports your next online tri shop! http://www.insideoutsports.com/

did you get positioned on a retul fit bike?

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

I think the new P2 is the same frame set as P3 but just doesn't have Ultegra so something easy to upgrade later.

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“Bloom wherever you are planted"

Yes I did. Why do you ask?

1. what was the stem length and pitch on the fit bike when you were positioned?
2. were there any spacers under the stem?
3. what aerobaers were used during your fit session?

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

felt makes a number of bars, or has over the years. do you know what the pad stack was, over the handlebar clamp?

otherwise, lots of bikes to choose from. here are the cervelo p2/p3 numbers:

size 51cm: 506mm x 397mm

bear in mind that this bike doesn't come with a felt aerobar. if the felt has about a 45mm pad height, which it has last i checked on the most recent felt bar i used, that's about 15mm less pad height than a profile design. the extra pad height of a profile, which comes on at least one of the cervelo bikes, "pushes" the frame down (you have to make room for that extra pad height, i.e., the aerobar is taking up some of the elevation of the whole construct).

fine. the cervelo is a lower frame than you need. but only by 5mm, not 15mm. where do you get the extra 10mm? how about a -17° stem instead of the -6°?

these are just math problems, and pretty easy math problems. that's how well-trained fitters solve these problems and come up with a range of complete bike solutions.

if you have any other bikes you're looking at, we can go through this process.

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

Sent you a pm. Thoughts on the norcom fit?

Dude, go cervelo p2 new if it fits. Warranty and super bike on the cheap.
Done.

Looking at norcom because I have a club discount.

P2 with lbs is on sale

Now I'm looking also at qr cd0.1 ultegra whcih I can get around same price point at ~2.5k it definitely has three best components. Fit by attach and reach works well for me to.

Any thoughts?

disclosure: I'm currently selling my norcom because I'm semi-retiring from triathlon for 5-10 years. (We just has our second baby!)

I have been super impressed with the new Fuji Norcom. It's a really nice bike. I had the D6 before and it "feels" considerably faster. (I put down better times at same race, but there's way too many variables to prove with any certainty how much faster).

I remember reading somewhere that the Fuji NS was = the P4 in the tunnel. That data was unpublished, but it came from a source credible member on this forum. I'll try to search for that thread later.

I would first look at fit, then... if you travel a lot the P2 might be a better choice, if not I would pick based on price. Either way, over a irondistance race you're probably talking a couple of seconds in either direction.

Doesn't really matter if they both fit

Both great choices. The P2 is the same frame as the P3 but at a much lower cost because of the components. The NS is also the same frame as their 1.1 except for quality of carbon. I think that the NS also comes with much better wheels than the P2. Good luck

The CP2 with 105s is $2800

the Fuji 2.1 with Ultegra's and 50's aero wheels is $2699 at Performance Bike and also comes with a 20% cash back deal so then you get another $530 bucks to buy helmets, pedals, seats, etc...


So tell me how the P2 is a better deal? Unless you are a pro wanting to shave 3-4 minutes off an Ironman bike split - I just don't see the benefit haha

I have a Fuji Norcom Straight. I like it. Do not love it. The main problem is the @%@^ brakes. THEY ARE AWFUL!!! made by TRP.
I have had issues since day one. and still do on occasion. Performancebike is extremely helpful (beyond all expectations) but unfortunately they did not make
the brakes, TRP did. and they suck. their customer service is atrocious. I would get norcom straight with cheap wheels, get a pair of really good race wheels used, throw
the garbage TRP out, get tririg omegaX and youre good to go!!!

I have been looking at the Norcom's for a while. Seem like a really good rig for the price.

With the $530 bucks they throw you for buying it - you could replace the brakes and have a bit leftover for some used wheels.



If I won the lotto and could afford to spend $5000 more to shave .05 seconds off my mile - then I would get a custom made bike by Ferrari. Would also still be slow on it because it is the motor, not the car that wins.

I have seen a $5000 mini van with a big block chevy beat a Lambo at the track. Motor trumps fancy frames

What is the problem with the TRP brakes? Looking at the Fugi frame I can't figure out how you will mount the Tririg brake:

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''Sweeney - you can both crush your AG *and* cruise in dead last!! 😂 '' Murphy's Law

Sweeney,
I have absolutely no clue how to mount tririg brakes on fuji, maybe its not possible.
The problem with brakes: they cannot be set right. ever. they rub. always. even after 3 mechanics and being on the loose side they still rub every time
I lay on some power. TRP sent a new spring which seemed to help but only a little (and they refused to deal with me, my LBS only).

I will also refer you to this thread:
http://forum.slowtwitch.com/gforum.cgi?post=5538637;search_string=norcom%20straight%20brakes;#5538637

Also, the P3 has a different fork.

Is your problem that the brakes won't stay centered? I have a Kestrel 4000 with another TRP set of brakes that everyone has problems with. I think that both brakes set up similarly. First, as someone posted in the other thread, make sure that the cables are as short as possible and make sure that there is no slack or slop in the cables. Set the pads about 1/16 away from the rim. Set both centering bolts about in the middle of their range. Now the pads are probably not centered. Turn the bolt in for the pad you want to pull out but only a quarter turn. Turn the other side out a quarter turn. Repeat until centered. Ride.

You might have too do this a couple of times but eventually the brakes will be set and centered. I haven't adjusted the centering on my Kestrel since I got it right two years ago. And, the brakes on the Kestrel stop just as good as any dual pivot brake, just not quite as firm.

Don't give up. Good Luck!

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''Sweeney - you can both crush your AG *and* cruise in dead last!! 😂 '' Murphy's Law

Thanks I'll do that
It's just I don't think i should be
Doing it w the new bike