Thompson bits are like Chris King bits - set it and forget it. Worth the extra $ to never have to worry about it ever again.

You tried Loctite on the bolts?


PS - CF is surprisingly and ridiculously strong.
Not that you need or want to spend extra $ for it, but "don't think it is up to the abuse" is not part of the decision matrix.
I've had CF parts on my mtbs for eons, and they've been bomber.

My wife even drove the car into the garage w/ our bikes on top (there were indents in the wall where the barends impacted), and the CF handlebars on my bike were unscathed, and I kept riding it for many more years after w/ no issues.

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float , hammer , and jog

I run a saddle with Carbon rails and a carbon seatpost with no issues. ( I actually cracked a plastic saddle on my b-bike in super cold race (ie 0 degrees to negative) last year). So the stuff is pretty durable.

With that said, 9 times out of 10 I reach for a Thomson. (I just happened to be 1 Thomson short and my last 27.2 seatpost was Carbon). The most important thing is that a 2 bolt seatpost (where there's one bolt in front and behind the post) is an absolute must. Otherwise you'll eventually have the nose sticking up your grundle after a botched remount.

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I talk a lot - Give it a listen: http://www.fasttalklabs.com/category/fast-talk
I also give Training Advice via http://www.ForeverEndurance.com

The above poster has eschewed traditional employment and is currently undertaking the ill-conceived task of launching his own hardgoods company. Statements are not made on behalf of nor reflective of anything in any manner... unless they're good, then they count.
http://www.AGNCYINNOVATION.com

Did you race today (double cross)?

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Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

Tried the loctite. Like my old track coach used to say, "You can't make chicken salad out of chickenshit".

You mean "Dusty Cross". Saturday was enough, 35+ B. Just wanted to check out the equipment before any of the races where I think I can do well. Need new seatpost. Dropped a chain that turned into kind of fiasco, real head scratcher. After a runup the chain comes off the crank arm side and I tried to pedal through and end up wrapping the chain around the crankarm and then it gets stuck. How does that even happen? The dust was ridiculous, I almost rode into that tree in the middle of course every lap because I could barely see it through the dust. I really miss east coast cross and nice firm (but not cement hard) grass. Here it is either dust or mud, you hardly ever just get a nice course in terms of the surface.

Deda dritisimo carbon 27.2mm post... Using correct torque at the top clamp and correct torque and carbon paste at frame it's been fine.

I have ridden for over 30 years and my MTB and cross bikes have ultimately been upgraded to Thomson posts. Best seatposts I have ever owned. Search eBay and you can find pretty good deals. David K

Thomson.

I don't use it for CX, but I have one on my hardtail MTB and had zero issues.

It is a set it and forget it component and will likely outlast the frames you put it in. Think of it like a chris king headset, an investment grade item.

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"When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro."
Hunter S. Thompson

I'll give another vote for Thompson.

Really though, there are a lot of seaposts (both carbon and aluminum) that have a similar 2-bolt design to what Thompson uses. I have a carbon easton post ony my roadbike that would be just fine on my CX bike. You need to stay clear of the 1-bolt posts, like the Bontrager XXX lite.

another +1 for Thomson. Anything alloy with a similar clamp mechanism will probably hold fine but if you want an aluminium post I wouldn't waste time with anything else. The niner RDO and syntace hiflex posts are also worth considering.

Just going to add my 0.02. I have a Thomson straight post on my road bike and it behaves according to the above words. I had a Thomson setback post on my mountain bike for a couple years. After getting a little wet and muddy it would creak like crazy until you completely disassembled it, cleaned each part, greased each part, then put it back together. Then you're good for another few months until the creaks start again. That's why I no longer have it on my mountain bike. After talking to another mountain biker who ran a Thomson posted he described the same problem. So it's not just me. Post functioned fine, the creaks were just extremely annoying.

And if you're worried about strength, forged seatposts (in general) are stronger than machined, which is the method Thomson uses.

Also agree with other posters: Just say no to single bolt seatposts.