I keep my CX fit pretty similar to my road bike, but I bring the h-bars up a little higher and in a little closer for better handling off-road. Are you using it to race CX (40-60min) or for long multi-hour gravel grinder rides?

Good rules of thumb for CX fit:

- Tops of hoods level with saddle

- angle of levers such that with forearms close to parallel to ground, wrist angle is neutral holding hoods.

- reach to hoods 1/2 way ~ equal to reach to tops on road bike

- very few bike fitters know much at all about fitting CX bikes.

PS - saddle position same as road bike, after compensating for pedal/shoe difference.

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Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
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CX bike fit depends on how you are actually going to use the bike. (Road, Gravel, CX Racing, etc.?)

In general, start with road dimensions, then move to a slightly more upright position if you're planning to race CX. Similarly, you might adjust the handlebar reach 5-10mm closer for CX (you'll spend most of the time on the hoods). These adjustments can be easily made via shorter/higher stem position or a minor upward-rotation of handlebar (bringing hoods higher and closer, etc.).

If you are racing, read and digest what Fredly wrote.

Personally, my cx position from my road position ends up being about 4cm higher, 1cm closer, my handlebar angle is the same, but my levers are much higher up on my bar such that my wrists are not bent either direction. My fore/aft is the same after factoring in having my cleats a little further back compared to my road shoes. My saddle height is about 2-3mm lower to account for bumpy pedalling.

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