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Building a climbing bike...school me
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So I just got a Giant TCR frame and looking to make this my fun project.

I am looking to build up the bike with ultegra but looking for some input on the following keeping in mind I am not looking to break the bank on it.
Here is what I am looking for. Any suggestions would be great.

Handlebars - I want something light. Doesnt need to be carbon - no more than $100
BB - any suggestions?
Cables - I know I could go with the shimano ones but was wondering if anyone had experience with anything else. (Not trying to really save weight here but looking for recommendations for some cables).
Wheels - looking for a lightweight wheelset. Alum breaking surface. Maybe flo30s?

Thanks for the help!

2020 Team Zoot MTN
Last edited by: tsdogma: Mar 20, 18 13:16
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Re: Building a climbing bike...school me [tsdogma] [ In reply to ]
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I just did this. The general mantra is light and stiff. So...
  • Deda has some nice and high value and high quality carbon bars and stems. I used theirs.
  • I used Jagwire sealed cables. I did not really notice any difference from Shimano's polymer cables on my other bike
  • I have Vuelta Race wheels-- very light and cost efficient. Now I want HED Ardennes Black. Not quite as light, but pretty awesome. FLO 30 wheels are very good, but a bit porky compared to Vuelta Race and Ardennes Black.
  • Bottom Bracket - I don't think ceramic will gain you much.
  • Light and stiff carbon crankset. I dig the SRAM Red and FSA SL-K Light options. SL-K is high value. Sram Red is sweet.

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Re: Building a climbing bike...school me [exxxviii] [ In reply to ]
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I'm an aero roadie, not a climbing bike owner, but......

I lost a lot of grams on getting some super sweet shoes that would normally be out of my budget but were last year's tech. Did the same on my carbon saddle. Shopped end of season sales plus coupon codes and free shipping.

The carbon saddle and carbon shoes together shaved a little over a pound off the setup.

For Christmas my sister, who knows nothing about bikes but is an engineer also, got me sweet Crank brothers multi tool that allowed me to ditch the older heavier one AND ditch my chain break. I used to carry a separate chain break that was pretty heavy. Probably about 1/3 pound there. So, minimalist on your tool carrying helps too.

Might be worth joining the weight weenies website forum.
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Re: Building a climbing bike...school me [burnthesheep] [ In reply to ]
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Big +1 to the Crank Brothers multitool. Those are awesome and light as a feather.

Another pork chop can be an aluminum seat post. Carbon there saves lots of grams.
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Re: Building a climbing bike...school me [tsdogma] [ In reply to ]
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SRAM Red will save you some weight over an Ultegra group
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Re: Building a climbing bike...school me [tsdogma] [ In reply to ]
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I just built my dream machine (budget) as well. Below is what I went with; however, the only thing that pertains to what you asked is, yes, I suggest Flo 30s... mainly because if you're going up, you have to go down and you'll want the stopping power. Carbon just isn't as good for extreme descents.

Trek Emonda SLR
Ultegra 8050 Di2 (but I wish I would have gotten a DA 9100 crankset)
PRO Stealth Saddle (Carbon)
Ultegra 8000 Pedals (in reality, you lose less than 12 grams vs DA; the advertised weights are off)
PRO Vibe Carbon Handlebar with internal Di2 junction box
Enve Stem (this is just bitchin' until PRO makes a PRO Vibe stem/bar combo)
Flo 30 wheelset w/ built in Powertap hub and GP4k 25mm tires
Bontrager Speedstop brakes


There is only a couple things I would change and likely will in the future:

Upgrade to DA 9100 Crank w/ Quarq DZero
Replace Flo 30 rear with no PT hub
Get a bar/stem combo that allows internal junction box w/o hacking

I'd be hard pressed to want to change anything beyond that for 5 years... fingers crossed.
Last edited by: BrentwoodTriGuy: Mar 20, 18 10:56
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Re: Building a climbing bike...school me [tsdogma] [ In reply to ]
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If lightweight is your main goal, I think you can do better than the flos. Mavic makes the Kysirium SLs and Elites which weigh less. I'm sure there are others that I'm not thinking of at the moment.
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Re: Building a climbing bike...school me [BrentwoodTriGuy] [ In reply to ]
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Love it. How are the flos and why did you pick them?

2020 Team Zoot MTN
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Re: Building a climbing bike...school me [tsdogma] [ In reply to ]
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tsdogma wrote:
Handlebars - I want something light. Doesnt need to be carbon - no more than $100
Wheels - looking for a lightweight wheelset. Alum breaking surface. Maybe flo30s?

I recently bought some FSA carbon bars new for $97 on ebay. Like'm.

A *climbing* bike needs light carbon tubulars. Else it's just a bike.
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Re: Building a climbing bike...school me [tsdogma] [ In reply to ]
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I just did a similar build with a Felt FR1 frame last fall. Went with Zipp Service Course SL-70 bar and stem, Enve seatpost, FSA Gossamer crank with P2max Type-S PM, 6870 Di2, 6800 brakes, and Pro Stealth saddle. I have Enve 6.7 wheelset for the flats and a set of Flo 30s for climbing/off-road with 28mm tires. Its pretty much been my dream road bike build and is super versatile.

I had the crank, wheelsets, and saddle already from other bikes, but picked up everything else as I found good deals. I was surprised how easy it was to build up.
Last edited by: TPerkin2000: Mar 20, 18 12:10
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Re: Building a climbing bike...school me [tsdogma] [ In reply to ]
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Uno Ultralight stems are pretty much the only stem I'll use anymore. Stiff as any other stem, Cheaper and lighter than expensive carbon options, and the handlebar clamp never 'bites' into the handlebar (following the basic instructions they provide).

I'd assume you need a Shimano Press fit BB. I'd just get the basic Zitto version for ~$20.

There's lots of carbon handlebar options from China that are cheap (just check ebay). But if you want to go cheap and aluminum, I'd recommend checking out Bontrager race lite handlebars.
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Re: Building a climbing bike...school me [tsdogma] [ In reply to ]
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tsdogma wrote:
Love it. How are the flos and why did you pick them?

A number of reasons but the biggest being rim width (not depth) and price. If I was to spend more money, I would have purchased HED Belgium+ since they're a bit lighter.

I live in Los Angeles and believe it or not, we have some epic climbing and seriously epic descending, Tuna Canyon in Malibu being the worst of it. We've melted many carbon rims on that descent.... anyway, the wide rim is extremely noticeable while cornering. Extremely noticeable!

But the weight sucks. Even though I would never get a lightweight carbon wheelset, you are talking about over a pound difference. But FWIW; my last roadie was an aluminum Madone with 105; it was crazy heavy and I have found absolutely no difference in climbing times. Watt for watt almost identical. So don't nitpick too much (i.e. I got Trek Bat cages because they are bomb proof instead of XXX - saved $100+)
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Re: Building a climbing bike...school me [tsdogma] [ In reply to ]
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I'm building my CAAD10 up for doing Mt. Washington this summer, and I picked up some Alto A26 wheels on the classifieds here for pretty cheap. I really like them and they come in at just over 1400 g. So far I'm down to around 16 lbs w/only a few simple changes - I know it's not a super light climber, but not bad for the cost. I have a Force/Red combo, a Dash saddle and the Alto wheels that I've changed from stock.

Blog: http://262toboylstonstreet.blogspot.com/
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Re: Building a climbing bike...school me [tsdogma] [ In reply to ]
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I have my Caad12 built to 7kg even with hardly any aftermarket parts.

I ride HED Ardennes Blacks, want to go sram red for a cassette, as they are light and durable.

I like Jagwire elite cables, fun colors and they work. But i think the lightest are the link type cables.

Carbonwerks bottle cages are something like 13g for the set and include bolts. I broke one, but they hold bottles well.

Light tires and tubes are a good place to cut weight and bar tape.

The Kalloy stems are the weight weenie approved stem.

An extralite compression plug and CarbonTi top cap shed a bunch of weight.

With the TCR you can't change the seat post, so you are stuck with that, might be able to change the saddle clamp assembly?

I have a SRAM force 10sp crank in BB30, 172.5 that I would let go for $100+shipping.

Pactimo brand ambassador, ask me about promo codes
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Re: Building a climbing bike...school me [tsdogma] [ In reply to ]
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i would definitely NOT do ceramic BB. It looks like you are trying to keep this build as cheap as possible. You'd be much better off spending that money in other places.

I wouldn't buy cheap no-name (or even worse, fake brand name) handlebars. You can spend the money you save on the ceramic bearings by buying some 3t, zipp, fsa, deda, etc carbon bars for an authorized dealer.

For wheels, maybe look into some used bontrager XXX lite tubulars. I know that you said you wanted aluminum braking surface though, so i guess these wouldn't do the trick.

Used 10 spd shifters and derailleurs are crazy cheap right now. If you are trying to stay on a budget, go with used 10spd.

Selle Italia SLR saddles are pretty light and cheap. Mine (with ti rails) is advertised as 135g and didn't cost much at all.
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Re: Building a climbing bike...school me [MTBSully] [ In reply to ]
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Is this for a hillclimb bike or a regular bike prioritizing the uphill stretches?

Assuming hillclimb:
- used tubular wheels. Don’t need to be aero. You can probably get some used Zipp 202 tubs and they be really light and relatively cheap since people are dumping tubs.
- Skinny and light tubs.
- Ritchey C260 stem and some cost effective carbon bars.
- some kind of carbon rail saddle. You won’t be sitting in it long and will be up and down so the comfort isn’t critical. You could also look at a light metal railed saddle and remove the cover and foam. We used to do that with Flight saddles when they first came out.
- Cannondale hollowgram crankset with sipderring or SRAM red. There’s some money here but it’s a solid weight savings.
- FSA makes aluminum shelled bearings for headset and B.B. I used them on some light builds. Don’t last as long but they save 10-20g.
- Carbon seatpost as mentioned above. There are some light aluminum posts too. Whatever you get cut it to a minimal required length.
- Light chain. Hollow pin.
- Miche or Rotor cassette
- Lizard skin 1.8mm tape
- Nokon links cable housing. It’s not cheap so maybe pass on this for regular stuff if you need to.
- SRAM red shifters and derailleur.
- SRAM red brakes or something fancy like ee cyclewirks but they are pretty expensive. Get some used SRAMs and you’ll be pretty good.
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Re: Building a climbing bike...school me [sxevegan] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks for the help. I got a great deal on a ultegra 6800 groupo so I am sticking with that.

2020 Team Zoot MTN
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Re: Building a climbing bike...school me [tsdogma] [ In reply to ]
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My climbing wheels are a set of King hubs with velocity aeroheat rims, 32 ti spokes and alloy nipples with challenge open tubular tires and latex tubes. Doing it again I'd toss on the king r45 but think I would keep the rim the same due to the weight vs stiffness, I find the ti spokes need a slightly stiffer rim. Not only did the wheels climb well but they took real advantage of the descent as well, when I first built them I lived in Albany and weekly rode out to Thatcher state park and these were confidence inspiring at 55mph coming out of the park.
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Re: Building a climbing bike...school me [tsdogma] [ In reply to ]
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Here's my "weight weenie" build, don't really like to call it a "climber" especially when I'm running it 1x with a 52t chainring!

Spooky Skeletor
- SRAM Red 1x
- Ritchey WCS cockpit
- Bike Ahead THEseatpost w/ Tune Komm-Vor+ saddle - this dropped a ton of weight. 234g combined.
- Stans Alpha rims laced to a DT180 rear and BHS wide front, 24/28 - weigh 1366g with Stans tape
- GP4000 w/ latex tubes (have Schwalbe tubless tires en route)

Weighs 14.86 lbs as you see it. Light, stiff, and fast.
Last edited by: c.mont.811: Mar 21, 18 6:44
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Re: Building a climbing bike...school me [c.mont.811] [ In reply to ]
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Looks beautiful (and spooky).

2020 Team Zoot MTN
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Re: Building a climbing bike...school me [tsdogma] [ In reply to ]
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I built a light bike several years ago as therapy for a major life changing event. I went through iterations. Started with a Look 585 frame which was flexy. Ended with a PlanetXframe that was very flexy. Eventually it was a 12lb bike. I found I was faster up Wintergreen on my 16lb C59.

I have since sold most of the parts, but have a few left. Some M2 cages at 6gms each, a Lightning crank (110 bcd) which is more than 200 gms lighter than the Ultegra and maybe close to 300. I also have a set of Reynolds KoM tubulars - under 1kg! And a set of M2 skewers. The KoMs have DT240 hubs badged as Reynolds and DT Revolution spokes, 20 front and 24 rear. I may still have some red KCNC brakes, too. The cranks require a threaded bottom bracket, so they won't work for you. I do have an old Specialized carbon (130 bcd) crank from my S-Works Transition that is BB30 and far lighter than the Ultegra.

PM me if you're interested. I'll let this stuff go dirt damn cheap
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Re: Building a climbing bike...school me [Tri Slow Poke] [ In reply to ]
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Tri Slow Poke wrote:
If lightweight is your main goal, I think you can do better than the flos. Mavic makes the Kysirium SLs and Elites which weigh less. I'm sure there are others that I'm not thinking of at the moment.

+1 on this, I just got my groupset, frame is pending my initial fit next week but I already have my heart set on Mavic Ksyrium for wheels, $1k for the Pro UST and it weighs 1,410 grams. So far, that's the best deal I have found.

Now watching this thread because I too, am building a weight weenie wannabe machine. I thought about aero but really, If I ever want to be fast all around, I'll ride my tri bike. I want to do some epic climbs so the road option must be UCI illegal. Not that I'm going to cut off my drops or anything...

808 > NYC > PDX > YVR
2024 Races: Taupo
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Re: Building a climbing bike...school me [hadukla] [ In reply to ]
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hadukla wrote:
I already have my heart set on Mavic Ksyrium for wheels, $1k for the Pro UST and it weighs 1,410 grams. So far, that's the best deal I have found.



Why not go with the Dura Ace 9000 C24 wheels? The hubs will outlive your kids and you save 13 grams!!! (and ~$200).

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/shimano-dura-ace-9100-c24-carbon-road-wheelset-clincher


Any real "weight weenie" or climbing bike needs tubulars. And you can find those used for dirt cheap.

/kj

http://kjmcawesome.tumblr.com/
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Re: Building a climbing bike...school me [kjmcawesome] [ In reply to ]
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kjmcawesome wrote:
hadukla wrote:
I already have my heart set on Mavic Ksyrium for wheels, $1k for the Pro UST and it weighs 1,410 grams. So far, that's the best deal I have found.



Why not go with the Dura Ace 9000 C24 wheels? The hubs will outlive your kids and you save 13 grams!!! (and ~$200).

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/shimano-dura-ace-9100-c24-carbon-road-wheelset-clincher


Any real "weight weenie" or climbing bike needs tubulars. And you can find those used for dirt cheap.

The biggest problem with both of these is exactly why I went with Flo... both have narrow(er) rim width. I've owned both Mavic Ksyrium and Dura Ace C24 wheels (albeit not the latest models) and neither handle as well as Flo. I can bomb the shit out of a -10 degree or greater, 160 degree corner with ease. Not so much with narrower wheels.

I'm not saying that you "should not" buy these wheels but you have to ask yourself what is more important:
A) having the absolute lightest bike
B) having the absolute all around best climbing bike
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Re: Building a climbing bike...school me [kjmcawesome] [ In reply to ]
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Oooh I do like that, thank you... Actually while I will have the clinchers regularly on the bike for local rides, I plan on having a set of tubulars for travels to real climbs. Real meaning, not NY's bear mountain which is the only "climb" round these parts for me and requires a century round trip ride.

808 > NYC > PDX > YVR
2024 Races: Taupo
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