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BB30 ticking / clicking
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I'm getting a ticking sound in the same spot on the crank. Any thoughts on a solution.
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Re: BB30 ticking / clicking [eac72903] [ In reply to ]
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I found mine gets loose over time and starts making clicking / creaking sounds. Re-torque and the sound will go away.
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Re: BB30 ticking / clicking [Dr.Evil] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks I'll give it a try again. Need a larger torque wrench
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Re: BB30 ticking / clicking [eac72903] [ In reply to ]
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How long have you been using the the crank? There could be several reasons for the clicking. I've eliminated clicking in the past by cleaning and regreasing the bearings. I've also had to use thread locking compound on the bearing races/BB shell at times. No more clicking after that.

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Re: BB30 ticking / clicking [allenpg] [ In reply to ]
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Since Dec 2011. Bike is great except the ticking is clearly taking the enjoyment out of bike. Where do you put the thread lock?
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Re: BB30 ticking / clicking [eac72903] [ In reply to ]
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Took mine to my tri shop, took it apart and re-greased it. Torqued it down. Sound is gone!
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Re: BB30 ticking / clicking [eac72903] [ In reply to ]
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eac72903 wrote:
I'm getting a ticking sound in the same spot on the crank. Any thoughts on a solution.

It's BB30. What do you expect?
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Re: BB30 ticking / clicking [AmaDablam] [ In reply to ]
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If I can't get it fixed I'm switching to GXP
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Re: BB30 ticking / clicking [eac72903] [ In reply to ]
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This is a really easy fix. Pull the crank and bearings. Clean everything up. Put some Loctite 641 on the areas where the bearings contact the shell. Press the bearings back in. Install crank. Wait 24 hours to ride. Done. Do this once or twice a year depending on how much you ride and how much you ride in bad weather/off road.
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Re: BB30 ticking / clicking [eac72903] [ In reply to ]
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What's it going to take for manufacturers to abandon any press fit BB and go back to BSA / threaded? The benefits of press fit are extremely difficult to quantify and the drawbacks related to lack of reliability and clicking problems are well documented and rife. Threaded is simply a better design: more reliable, easier to install.
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Re: BB30 ticking / clicking [lrsealey] [ In reply to ]
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lrsealey wrote:
This is a really easy fix. Pull the crank and bearings. Clean everything up. Put some Loctite 641 on the areas where the bearings contact the shell. Press the bearings back in. Install crank. Wait 24 hours to ride. Done. Do this once or twice a year depending on how much you ride and how much you ride in bad weather/off road.

The highlighted statements are mutually exclusive.

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Re: BB30 ticking / clicking [duffman] [ In reply to ]
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Actually, if you get a cheap Park Tool headset press and the BB30 removal tool (which comes withe the guides to press the bearings back in) it only takes a couple of minutes.
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Re: BB30 ticking / clicking [hiro11] [ In reply to ]
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hiro11 wrote:
What's it going to take for manufacturers to abandon any press fit BB and go back to BSA / threaded? The benefits of press fit are extremely difficult to quantify and the drawbacks related to lack of reliability and clicking problems are well documented and rife. Threaded is simply a better design: more reliable, easier to install.


Oh no! Next thing you'll be making note of how much worse the internal headsets are. You must be a ludite!

I'm with you on this. the bb30 is hellish for cyclocross and I own the proper tools, just lack the patience to keep tearing into the thing every week.


And then there's the "easy" solution above, take everything apart and GLUE the damn bearings into your nice expensive bike. That'll fix her!
Last edited by: jroden: Jun 26, 13 14:08
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Re: BB30 ticking / clicking [lrsealey] [ In reply to ]
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lrsealey wrote:
Actually, if you get a cheap Park Tool headset press and the BB30 removal tool (which comes withe the guides to press the bearings back in) it only takes a couple of minutes.

I have one and let's just agree to disagree. However, I've only done this once.

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Re: BB30 ticking / clicking [jroden] [ In reply to ]
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I don't think either pressfit or thread in are much better than the other. I've seen plenty of ssues with threaded BB seized in frames, and have heard plenty of them squeeking or grinding. Bike need routine maintenance to perform optimally. Doesn't much change no matter what parts you prefer.

Styrrell
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Re: BB30 ticking / clicking [eac72903] [ In reply to ]
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Are you sure it's coming from the bottom bracket? The mechanic at my bike shop said just about everything on a carbon frame sounds like it's coming from the BB. When mine was making noise, it was actually the seat that was loose and causing the clicking.
Last edited by: krez: Jun 26, 13 20:32
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Re: BB30 ticking / clicking [hiro11] [ In reply to ]
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hiro11 wrote:
What's it going to take for manufacturers to abandon any press fit BB and go back to BSA / threaded? The benefits of press fit are extremely difficult to quantify and the drawbacks related to lack of reliability and clicking problems are well documented and rife. Threaded is simply a better design: more reliable, easier to install.


Absolutely agree. Threaded BSA BB shells seem to have orders of magnitude less problems than most, if not all, of the BB design permutations.

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Re: BB30 ticking / clicking [styrrell] [ In reply to ]
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styrrell wrote:
I don't think either pressfit or thread in are much better than the other. I've seen plenty of issues with threaded BB seized in frames, and have heard plenty of them squeaking or grinding. Bike need routine maintenance to perform optimally. Doesn't much change no matter what parts you prefer.

Having had more than a few years of experience on bikes, I would agree that there may not be big differences in the rates of bearing failure between BSA and the many new BB permutations.

However, the difference between the two designs (BSA vs the new BB designs) in bearing interface problems/failures is enormous. In this arena, in reliability over the long haul, my conservative guess is that the threaded BSA BB design beats the new designs by 100 to 1.

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Re: BB30 ticking / clicking [DarkSpeedWorks] [ In reply to ]
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Hi guys,

What do you do if the bearing is seized in a UHC carbon frame? Drive side came out quite easily, the non-drive side is giving me a ton of trouble. I'm using the proper tools for removal, but the bearing is not budging.

Please advise. Thanks.
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Re: BB30 ticking / clicking [hiro11] [ In reply to ]
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hiro11 wrote:
What's it going to take for manufacturers to abandon any press fit BB and go back to BSA / threaded? The benefits of press fit are extremely difficult to quantify and the drawbacks related to lack of reliability and clicking problems are well documented and rife. Threaded is simply a better design: more reliable, easier to install.

It's comical to see how many BB30 folks end up using a 24mm spindle crank with adapters in their frame, after they get sick of putting up with the BB30 crank. They've added back all of that weight (which is hardly anything) and lost the stiffness that you get from going to BB30 in the first place. The other funny thing is that some frames seem to be placing the bearings narrower and narrower. Remember when we went to outboard BBs specifically because it places the bearings farther apart? I saw a brand-new carbon disc 'cross bike the other day with their a proprietary 30mm crank, and I swear the bearings were the narrowest I've ever seen. I also have to wonder about extra drag when using some of the BB30-->24 adapters.

BB30 creaking in general... you have a metal-on-metal contact between the bearing and shell, and a metal-on-metal contact between the bearing and spindle. It's a recipe for noise. You also have more seal drag with the larger bearings... but you can combat that with non-contact seals... so then you get to replace your bearings more often... which requires a large bearing press instead of a small hand wrench. I've seen *manufacturers of BB30 cranks* working on sponsored athletes' bikes the night before races trying to fiddle with bearings and get them pressed in perfectly, to match the low drag of a standard threaded BB. Sometimes you even get the bonus of punching out the opposite side bearing as you push the spindle in.

PressFit30 is marginally kinda-sorta better, in that they put a flexible plastic cup around the bearing. It eliminates one source of noise, and - in a way - allows the frame to be less precise (if the two side of the BB shell aren't aligned properly, the plastic cup can deform a little bit to accommodate that). I saw one fella with a ~$5k 2013 carbon tri bike who had to dremel away part of a plastic cup because the frame was so poorly made. Whoops!
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