Any help appreciated...

No advice on fit but you're on a trainer, get off the little chainring.!

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David

H & A Racing

not much to critique. what are you looking for?

From the video I don't see your knees getting anywhere near your chest or the arm cups. To me, you are riding unnecessarily high on your sized bike.

The math may not work as simply as this, but why wouldn't you slam your stem drop the risers and then lower your seat by a similar amount and use 150+ mm cranks?

Curious what others think, but I would want to be both comfortable and low. I think you can do this and preserve all the angels you have measured on your setup; and then you are more less done and left only to work on the engine.

Ha Ha Ha!

Thanks that's so funny!

Actually there aren't any sort cables on the bike now, so I'm limited to 34x11 until I decide where the bars are going and came out all up again. After that I promise, no more small ring inside.. Ever!

That's actually a great observation. I was hoping to adapt to the position over time and maybe go a little lower. I know 165mm was to big and so I wanted enough smaller to make a positional change.
That said, it may turn out that 150mm was the correct size for me on this bike. I'll have to stick with what I have for now though as I was doing a bunch of calculations before having all the other parts and already got the 140mm.

Thanks, any other thoughts?

You may also want to experiment with moving the saddle forward, which would require a longer stem, as you don't look cramped to me. Some (or most) will argue that you will run better off the bike if you can rotate over top of and in front of the bottom bracket. After doing this you may feel better with a bit more seat-to-pad drop, target maybe 15 as a start.

Thanks, that's a useful thought. Just so I understand, what are you seeing that tells you I am too​ far back? What angle would I be trying to go for?

Not so much an angle, but if you can get the tip of the adamo seat so it is over top of or even better a few mm in front the center of the bottom bracket.

Hang a plumb line from the top of the seat and see where it falls. Slide the seat forward on the rails from there. You will see a lot of riders with there seat slammed forward. In a lot of cases beyond what the manufacture recommends for the clamp area.

Find a new seat there is a lot of seat poking out the back or move it forward. Doesn't look like you're on the right position regarding your seat???

If you are comfortable on that seat I say leave it as is.
You have a nice smooth pedal stroke and head to back profile is good.
I don't think there will be much to be gained by going lower than you are.

Please dont listen to SBR or Shambolic, thanks.

He will have to play with position and see what works for him. Someone who is happy and comfortable doesn't post a how's my fit thread.

Do you think it is fine that he is way behind his B.B.?

Also, he is clearly fighting with his seat trying to get comfortable rotating forward. Look at the downward pitch.

Offer something up and help the guy out or let his thread get buried.

Nonsense. There's a difference between being happy/comfortable and being in the optimum position.

My completely unprofessional observations:
a) you're quite the toe dipper. Maybe that works for you, maybe a lower saddle might work?
b) you seem to have a bit of a "pop" in your hip/back at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Again, I'm not qualified to say if this is OK or bad, but it might be related to saddle height also.
c) You do seem a long way forwards on the saddle, even for an ISM.

Otherwise, posture looks good to me.

SBRinSD

Thanks for the opinions. Right now the saddle nose is 20mm behind the bb. Are you recommending sliding it forward 20-40mm? I would be willing to try, but either my cockpit would get correspondingly smaller, or I would need a 130mm stem.

Just so you understand why the seat is there, my understanding is that with a shorter crank, to put your body and knees in a biomechanically equivalent position, the seat needs to move up to compensate for the higher pedal at 12 o'clock and back to compensate for how much farther back your foot is at 3 o'clock.

I could be all wrong about this also, which is why I wanted help.

Smambolic,

Thanks for the idea about the seat. Right now I have the tip of the noses nestled right behind my squiggly bits with part of the perineum hanging out in space. My understanding was that this was the way to ride a split nose saddle.

I'm fine with being wing if the solution is better, so given that I'm probably not going to get a different saddle, in your experience, where on a split nose should one be sitting?

Thanks

lyrrad,
Thanks for the evaluation. The position seems ok to me, but I wanted to get some more eyeballs on it, so I appreciate you taking a look.

jkhayc,

What specifically would you take issue with in their advice? I'm trying to get a lot of input, so if you have an alternative thought, I'd love to get your input on the opposite side.

I don't agree with every idea set forth so far, but I'm keeping an open mind and am willing to try things I might not have thought of myself.

Thanks

MattyK,

I'm going to agree with you on this one. Although I've not ridden in this position much, it does seem reasonably comfortable and sustainable. I'm just wondering if they is anything better from a biomechanic, aerodynamic or comfort perspective.

All I know is I have never seen so much of a seat poking out someones rear before. IMO you should be comfortable on it slightly more forward without moving your position. It took me a while to work out my Dash split saddle but mine is pressing well into the back of my balls. I have to have it almost level otherwise I find I have to continue to pushing myself back in the seat. I also think it is hard to tell the fact you are under no pedalling load and spinning so fast. I always adjust my seat and it feels good and then as you warm up or fatigue I feel it's just not right. It took some time until it just felt right all ride every ride stopping to adjust it mm by mm during a training session. Your position isn't bad by any stretch so I would take it to the road and tweak it to best suit. As a proponent of short cranks riding 160m myself I am questioning if 140 even for your height will be too short. I'd been keen to find out how they work for you regardless

Not true, necessarily. Searching for validation is a valid reason to post.


Absolutely. Where in the "rulebook" does it say to put a noseless saddle slammed forward? The saddle position is irrelevant if the pelvis' position is set, which it is.


The downward pitch only really matters if he is sliding forwardand pushing back constantly. Which you can't tell in this video.


I did in the first reply to the thread.

This is not a good reason to change OPs saddle position


Why? What if his undercarriage is different from yours? Maybe his balls are way bigger so he needs to sit more forward than you?


If your saddle is pressing into the back of your balls you have your balls positioned incorrectly.


This is something I actually agree with. My Dash is level. But different saddles are different. So yea, not a valid reason for the OP to change.


A 34x11 on a trainer is a fair enough amount of load. Spinning fast doesn't really take anything away from his fit video, especially if that is his normal cadence.


That is a fair thought process, but again, not really a great reason to suggest moving around the OPs saddle.


Tl;dr

OPs position is "not bad." Yea, it is actually quite good. Much better than most "critique my fit" threads that pop up on here.. Since the position is new, OP should just go out and ride a lot. Then come back the request updates. There is nothing in the fit video that suggests an immediate change is necessary for improvement.

Looks pretty good to me, just a little tweak here or there.

Personally i think your extensions are a tad long from the pads.
At the mo, you've got your hands at the base of your ski tips, and your elbows are almost on the pads. What happens when you will want to change gear? Climb your hands up the bars? It's far easier if you can have the gear levers/buttons to hand when you're riding on the rivet. So you need to either move the pads farther forward, or, reduce the length of the extensions. As everything else looks good, i'd go for pulling your extensions back a little.

What i have found is trying to steer at 30+mph on the points of your elbows isnt great! A little more pressure from the forearm is needed.


Or while you're not cabled up, is it possible to reverse your extensions, to try that and see how it feels?

Comfort is your assessment.
Aero looks pretty good, though it would be good to see you look forwards not down to confirm that doesn't change things.
Biomechanics - not my speciality.

Toe dipping - bottom of the pedal stroke. It's natural for some, and others dip their heels. Like I said, it's neither here nor there for me, but that with what appears to be a hip snap every time your foot is at 6 o'clock makes me think your saddle might be high. But as I conceded, I'm definitely not an expert. Maybe with more load on the trainer / force through the pedals that wouldn't happen?

Saddle position - this is me from my thread a few days ago (ISM Attack = PN1.0). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6N2m4eirnA It was more an observation than anything, comfort is #1 down there and everything else be damned.