On the front of the levers there is a hole. Peek inside and you see a hexhead -2.5mm or so I think.
Turn this to adjust width.

There's a screw right in the middle front of the lever, right where the big cut out is on the face. That bolt controls brake travel. I believe it uses a 3mm wrench. People often confuse it with being an anchoring bolt.

Hi Izlude,

Dr. Green and Chris are correct. :-) It's a 2.5 allen key in the front of the lever.

FYI, the screw in the lever has a limited range - if you turn it too far it screws completely though the nut and falls out inside the lever! Look closely inside and keep all the threads engaged.

If the screw adjustment doesn't cover enough range for the difference in your two wheel sets, then you can add a spacer washer between the brake shoe holder and the brake. If the difference in rim width isn't too great then you can often find a nice washer thickness so the range can be covered by the screw adjustment alone.

The Magura manual is quite complete, found here:
https://www.magura.com/...-tt-1/downloads.html
The lever screw is illustrated on page 9.

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Sorry to bump this, but Damon can you help?
I just turned the screw too far and now my brake doesn't seem to function correctly. Do you have any tips on getting the screw back in the thread or do I need to buy a new set of brakes as my local bike shop told me to do?

Thank you.

Hi JannikD,

Bummer! Amazing you found my old post, it applies directly to your situation. :-)

There's a chance the threads might have become damaged due to operating the brake lever with the bolt out of the nut. If so, count on new parts and have your dealer contact Magura USA.

If the nut's threads are not damaged, it's simply a matter of lining them up with the bolt and re-engaging them. Can be very tricky, since the nut spins in the lever, making it hard to hold while trying to align the threads. Look closely inside to see what I mean.

The manual (http://www.magura.com/...-tt-1/downloads.html) doesn't have a perfectly clear image but I've linked it in case you need some of the other info as you wrench on the brakes.

Hope it works out for you, and you can soon enjoy the awesome braking power and smooth aerodynamics of the Magura brakes again.

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Yes, unfortunately it applies directly to my situation, and I have to say it was hard to find anything on this topic :-)

I will try to line the threads up again (tried for almost an hour now), but it seems that the nut has turned 90 degrees downwards and there is some kind of tension on the bolt/screw so I can't tilt it back up again and that is actually the main problem. Everything seems locked tight in there, and no matter how hard i try to tilt it back up again it just won't go back to the original position.

Regarding the new parts... Are you thinking of a new set of brakes or just the inside parts? And is it possible to disassemble the caliper? I can't find it in the manual.. My brakes are new, so if I can get away with new parts that would be awesome.

Thank you for your help Damon, i really appreciate it. I can't wait to ride my P5 again - it is without a doubt the best bike I have ever ridden. :-)

Hi JannikD,

Thanks for the kind words. :-)

The pressure you feel is the hydraulic pressure caused by the return spring at the caliper. The threaded rod is the master cylinder's push rod.

To be honest I've never personally had to re-engage those threads, but knowing how the brake works, you might be able to unhook the springs, or perhaps simply strap the brake shoes closed (without a wheel in place?), which removes the force, hopefully making re-engaging the threads a lot easier, as you said.

As far as new parts, I'm thinking only the threaded nut. To be honest I'm not sure at what sub-assembly level that might be available. Worst case - new lever perhaps? Your dealer will be able to easily find out through Magura USA. Fantastic service from those guys to date.

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Dude easy fix just had same issue screwing that thing in to far and losing it to the snap pressure of lever spring (not caliper spring back pressure in this case)

1: stick one side of pointy nose pliers in hole and latch onto open semi circle you can see at bottom
2: lever it up (by pushing the pliers down) and you will feel you are pushing against a spring to rotate that thing to get the threaded hole to face you
3: (magic) stick large flat blade screwdriver or similar in open slit on top of lever assembly and push the threaded bolt thing down hard until it clicks into place at the back of that pesky spring loaded nut
4: carefully exchange pliers for 2.5mm Allen key into that hole from the front and stick it right in to pick up that bolt and turn anti clockwise to get it threading back towards you into the nut.

Magura say don't go so deep that you can see the threads but I think at a pinch a couple of threads would be ok if you really needed it.

I know that's old now but hopefully helps someone else who didn't read the instructions!

Tip - use a washer to pack out the brake shoes if there'is not enough clamping force rather than over adjust this screw. And change brake pads early when having to adjust that screw more than a few millimeters into the hole as pads wear.

Cheers,
Marcus

My 808 firecrest won't fit the P5. The screw in the center of the lever is all the way out and still the pads are touching the wheel. what is the best way to adjust it??

tks

Marcelo

You need to move the two concave washers from the inside of the brake caliper arms to the outside.

Thanks James, but is there any manual, video, anything? where are those washers located?

tks

you mean at the end of the callipers? the washers on the brake pads? I have no more washers on the inside of the pads

If there are no washers left between the caliper arm and the brake pad holder, then something is wrong. I dont know how you would have too much fluid as mentioned above but an 808 should fit with zero issues in a correctly functioning RT brake with the concave washer positions changed and adjustment screw set appropriately.

A friend of my me had this problem on her p3 with maguras when swapping the stock shims no wheels for some wide rim carbon clinchers.

She had to take it to the lbs that sold it to her to bleed some fluid.

I think if you keep turning the adjustment screws, eventually they'll pop out and be a right bigger to get back in. Can't confirm as I didn't want to try on her bike, but I read a few forum posts about that happening.

Back to the future!

On my P5, the RT6 rear caliper arms are not balanced. One arm gets closer to the wheel and rubs the braking surface of the super9, while the other keeps a safe distance.

I removed the concave washer, I adjusted the screw at the lever, it got better but still rubs at load. Can I it be that the arms are not mounted properly?

It could be the return-springs are not working properly. IIRC there are some fixes that people have discussed on this forum.

Does anybody get a low pitched whistling noise from the front fairing? At least I think that is where the noise is coming from. Not being able to close the front 100%, I guess it was designed this way, I have never been able to solve getting rid of that noise.