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I don't understand BB
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Help me figure this out...

I have a 2016 QR PR6. Online says PF30. I got the bike used and it looks like they switched out the BB. It currently has a Rotor Pressfit 4630.

I'm looking to get a Sram Red 22 or rotor crank. What do I need to take into consideration for the best compatible crank without adding a bunch of spacers? Sorry not a gear head and looking to get a deal on a new crank.

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Re: I don't understand BB [PayneM85] [ In reply to ]
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I have had success with these.



http://wheelsmfg.com/...s-sram-truvativ.html

Last edited by: s.gentz: Jan 8, 18 9:21
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Re: I don't understand BB [PayneM85] [ In reply to ]
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Re: I don't understand BB [PayneM85] [ In reply to ]
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PayneM85 wrote:
I have a 2016 QR PR6. Online says PF30. I got the bike used and it looks like they switched out the BB. It currently has a Rotor Pressfit 4630.

They are the same thing/size. 46 refers to the 46mm hole in the frame that the cup/sleeve thing and bearings get pressed into. 30 refers to the 30mm inner diameter of the bearing that the cranks slides through. Rotor decided to be different and essentially call their bottom bracket (for PF30) a PF 4630 to confuse people.
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Re: I don't understand BB [dangle] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks for the explanation.

So if I'm looking at a Sram Red BB30/PF30 it will be compatible without the need of any additional spacers?

https://rover.ebay.com/...2Fitm%2F322973259904

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https://www.strava.com/athletes/2568182
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Re: I don't understand BB [Nolegs] [ In reply to ]
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Those are BB30 unfortunately, not PF30. An annoying move by the industry, making those two sound so similar.

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Re: I don't understand BB [PayneM85] [ In reply to ]
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Yes, PF30 is compatible with BB30 crank (no spacers needed).

The difference between those two BB's is the diameter of the BBshell (and materials used for the shell), not the width.
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Re: I don't understand BB [PayneM85] [ In reply to ]
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PayneM85 wrote:
Thanks for the explanation.

So if I'm looking at a Sram Red BB30/PF30 it will be compatible without the need of any additional spacers?

https://rover.ebay.com/...2Fitm%2F322973259904

The specific crank you are linking is the same specs. No spacers needed. There should be a twisty ring thing to help you dial in the lateral adjustment. You don't want it too tight (some even allow a teeny tiny bit of lateral movement) to help the bottom bracket bearings spin freely.

This isn't true of all SRAM BB30 cranks though. They really muddy the waters by calling all of their cranks with a 30mm spindle a "BB30" even though all of their cranks with a removable spider (Force, Rival, Quarqs, etc) have longer spindles (technically BB386 specs) and would require a 11mm spacer on each side of the BB. Nearly any crank made would fit into a PF30/BB30 frame with the appropriate bearings and/or spacers.
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Re: I don't understand BB [dangle] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks for the help!

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https://www.strava.com/athletes/2568182
Kona 2024 Qualifier
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Re: I don't understand BB [PayneM85] [ In reply to ]
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PayneM85 wrote:
Thanks for the explanation.

So if I'm looking at a Sram Red BB30/PF30 it will be compatible without the need of any additional spacers?

https://rover.ebay.com/...2Fitm%2F322973259904

All the BB and crank options can get very confusing these days:(

Since you are buying a new crankset anyway, I'd recommend you save yourself a lot of potential PF headaches and get a thread-together conversion BB. Praxis, Wheels Manufacturing, and others offer the option to change your BB from 30mm crank spindle to 24mm. This provides you more flexibility if you later want to move the crankset to another bike as the 24mm cranksets generally work on numerous BB standards while the 30mm cranksets are limited to the larger BB options.

You'll just have to decide which brand of crank you are buying before picking the conversion BB. Generally Shimano style (24mm i.d. bearings both sides) or GPX (24mm i.d. ds and 22mm i.d. nds bearings).
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Re: I don't understand BB [SummitAK] [ In reply to ]
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The SRAM pressfit 30 cups will give you fine performance for a fraction of the price of anything from Praxis.
Pressfit 30 is actually a very reliable creak free interface.

The problem child in the industry is BB30 where there is direct metal to metal contact between axle and bearings and more often than not metal to metal contact between bearing and frame.

Shimano press fit, Pressfit 30, good ol screw type are all good reliable interfaces.

Anything metal to metal has to be in very tight tolerances to work without creaking.
Also be wary of adaptors that are all metal, composite ones are usually fuss free, high quality high price metal are usually OK but as soon as the price and tolerances drop, metal to metal is hit and miss.
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Re: I don't understand BB [lyrrad] [ In reply to ]
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lyrrad wrote:
The SRAM pressfit 30 cups will give you fine performance for a fraction of the price of anything from Praxis.
Pressfit 30 is actually a very reliable creak free interface.

The problem child in the industry is BB30 where there is direct metal to metal contact between axle and bearings and more often than not metal to metal contact between bearing and frame.

Shimano press fit, Pressfit 30, good ol screw type are all good reliable interfaces.

Anything metal to metal has to be in very tight tolerances to work without creaking.
Also be wary of adaptors that are all metal, composite ones are usually fuss free, high quality high price metal are usually OK but as soon as the price and tolerances drop, metal to metal is hit and miss.


With all the issues generated by PF30 I don't think you can definitely state the press-fit interfaces are reliable. Just the spec differences between various frames and BB manufacturers can illustrate some of the issue. But I'm surprised you use economics as a justification. $35 vs $75 for a BB means very little if the cheaper option generates more visits to the LBS. And while you have PF30 figured out there are many others out there that do a terrible job installing or servicing these BB's. I see PF issues over and over.

The secondary reason for my recommendation is what I mention about 24mm crankset spindles being compatible with many more BB systems than the 30mm cranksets. I haven't found any real benefit to the 30mm systems and many users end up investing in crank-based powermeters where going with a 24mm will allow them much more flexibility moving forward.
Last edited by: SummitAK: Jan 9, 18 9:05
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Re: I don't understand BB [SummitAK] [ In reply to ]
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I'll stand by what I say, in a workshop situation, I have never seen a problem pressfit 30.
There are just not many around anyways.

BB30 on the other hand, especially looking at you Rotor, have created the great BB creaking lets all go back to screw type cult.
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Re: I don't understand BB [lyrrad] [ In reply to ]
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lyrrad wrote:
I'll stand by what I say, in a workshop situation, I have never seen a problem pressfit 30.
There are just not many around anyways.

BB30 on the other hand, especially looking at you Rotor, have created the great BB creaking lets all go back to screw type cult.

I'll also stand by my advice on skipping the use of a PF30-style BB and associated 30mm crankset if not already invested in the system. I include Cervelo's BBRight standard in with PF30 and Cervelos are very popular in my locale and the tri world in general.
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Re: I don't understand BB [PayneM85] [ In reply to ]
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The short answer is that your Rotor BB is PF30, so any BB30 crankset, including the SRAM Red BB30, will work without any adapters or specialty spacers.

The Rotor crankset for BB30 is the 3D+ and 3DF.

If you want to run Shimano crankset, then your best bet is to remove the Rotor BB completely and get a PF30/Shimano "conversion bottom bracket" from Praxis or Wheels Manufacturing. Those conversion BBs work really well and are generally creak-free.

As others have said, BB30 generally has creak issues, PF30 is better, and Shimano Hollowtech II/SRAM GXP normally are creak-free.
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Re: I don't understand BB [SummitAK] [ In reply to ]
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SummitAK wrote:
lyrrad wrote:
I'll stand by what I say, in a workshop situation, I have never seen a problem pressfit 30.
There are just not many around anyways.

BB30 on the other hand, especially looking at you Rotor, have created the great BB creaking lets all go back to screw type cult.


I'll also stand by my advice on skipping the use of a PF30-style BB and associated 30mm crankset if not already invested in the system. I include Cervelo's BBRight standard in with PF30 and Cervelos are very popular in my locale and the tri world in general.

Cervelo's BBright is a BB30 with one side pushed outwards, otherwise a standard BB30. With all of it's inherent creakiness.
Pressfit 30 is a whole other world with a much larger 46mm hole but same width as standard BB30 that takes any standard of crank via a pressed in cup.
Usually these cups are composite and cause no problems.
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Re: I don't understand BB [lyrrad] [ In reply to ]
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lyrrad wrote:
SummitAK wrote:
I'll also stand by my advice on skipping the use of a PF30-style BB and associated 30mm crankset if not already invested in the system. I include Cervelo's BBRight standard in with PF30 and Cervelos are very popular in my locale and the tri world in general.

Cervelo's BBright is a BB30 with one side pushed outwards, otherwise a standard BB30. With all of it's inherent creakiness.
Pressfit 30 is a whole other world with a much larger 46mm hole but same width as standard BB30 that takes any standard of crank via a pressed in cup.
Usually these cups are composite and cause no problems.

Obviously I'm talking about the BBRight PF variation, which is absolutely PF30 with the one side offset 11mm. This BBRight uses standard PF30 BB cups with only the need for the inner sleeve to be a bit longer. I haven't come across a Cervelo that doesn't use the PF BBRight system and plenty of these pressed in composite cup systems end up clicking or even creaking.
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