Right, I know taking the crankset isn't hard at all but don't you have to align it and make sure that you place it back on the same height and all???

I know that junk would be easy with my QXL chainrings if I had round rings I guess it wouldn't be a big deal!

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Speed kills unless you have speed skills!!!

I swap my Stages crank arm regularly between 3 bikes. Takes less than 5 minutes.

I have yet to swap my Powertap P1 pedals, I was debating about doing this for some time and putting my road bike on the trainer as I have ridden my tri bike only 10 times outside this year.

I can't that needing any effort besides a pair of screws so that's not exactly the same as changing a crankset!

I change my P1s from TT to roadie as well but if I had to switch cranksets then I think that could be an issue starting with my TT bike has a 53t Rotor QXL and my roadie has a 52t QXL chainrings

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Speed kills unless you have speed skills!!!

No. You set up both bikes with the same BB and the derailleur for the crankset that's being swapped.

If you have a non-powermeter crankset that you might use on the alternate bike between swaps, then yeah, its best if both sets of rings are the same size.

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http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/

I propose a race. You can choose to either remove or instal your wheelcover on your PT hub. Meanwhile, I will swap my quarq between my tri and road bike. Done. I win!

Yeah, more or less this. Used to swap my 110 BCD Quarq between road bikes and Tri bike. Then decided I wanted bigger rings on the tri bike so picked up a used 130BCD Quarq for that.

Then got bored of swapping the 110 BCD Quarq between roadies so picked up another second hand one.

Being bone idle is the most expensive hobby of all.

Until your entire crank comes off in the middle of a race because the years of swapping wore out the bolt threads and the whole thing just strips clean.

Talking about a friend.

But for the frequent swappers I'd recommend a new crank bolt maybe once per year.

All you P1 swappers...
Product work well?
Those of you that have used other power-meters...are you happy with P1's?
It looks like you don't need the hub, etc. that regular PT needs?

I need a solution for power on my everyday training bike, and my race only bike. I want power to be consistent on both.
I've been told my power looks "way too low" when I use my Quarq (on my old bike, which is becoming everyday bike). Plus I'm far from a wrench so it's not an option for me to switch the Q between bikes.
But it looks like swapping the pedals is something I could handle. Ha!

First: The torque slope on your Quarq can be checked/modified using a known weight. No reason to have it not read accurately.

Second: I've always said that if I had pedal-based power meters and wanted to swap between bikes OFTEN, I'd probably figure out a way to leave them attached and just swap the cranks. It's easier/faster (with GXP, and many others, a single bolt). If you have the mechanical ability to swap pedals, then you are easily "qualified" to swap a crank between bikes setup with the same BB...just sayin'...

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http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/

P1 user here. I swap mine probably once a week.

No issues and works very well.

Yeah - had it checked out and it checked out. My coach still thought it was "low". Well...

yes and no...

Stages arm goes from my TTbike to my wife bike often enough. (faster and easier to swap then vector)
Vector2 stay on my roadbike..

when I get vector3 (eventually) then vector2 will go on my TT bike most likely... then the stages can just stay on my wife's bike.

And he was basing that on what? Once the torque slope is calibrated, then the only other thing that needs to be measured to calculate power is rotational velocity. That's not a difficult thing to do, and most power meters have no problem with that measurement (a simple reed switch and magnet suffices quite well).

It's also fairly easy to do a hill climb and compare it to a predicted average power from analyticcyling.com...

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http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/

I suppose he was basing it on his experience.
I live in Florida with no hills (where I am)

I used to swap my Vectors between my tri bike and road bike. Not often though. When I first got them (Vector 1), I'd swap for tri season, but if I planned to do some big hill climbs on my road bike, I'd swap them to my road bike.

Eventually I just got a 2nd set of Vectors for my 2nd road bike and this past year put the older Vector on my first road bike as I switch those bike often and my tri bike had sat for almost a year now.

*Maybe not to address you specifically, but other readers questioning the Powertap/disc cover side of things.*

This is wrong. You only need the cassette out of the way to get a disc cover on and off. Taking the entire freehub off (with the cassette attached) is SUPER FAST on Powertaps and most wheels in general. Two 5mm hex keys will take off the freehub body (with cassette attached) on many hubs and allow you to throw on the disc cover. Powertap freehubs pop right off. No tools. The older generations were a little too easy to pop off actually. If it were an actual race as proposed above, the Powertap/disc cover install would beat almost any pedal or crank install.

Link to Slowtwitch article on removing Powertap freehubs - http://www.slowtwitch.com/...-_Powertap_3486.html

I'm going to play the stereotypical Slowtwitcher and state that I have enough disposable income to not have to work about swapping anything except my ass between bikes.

I have a Quarq on the TT bike and a C1 on the road bike. The wife has a C1 on the TT bike and P1's on her road bike. We even have bike computers for the TT bike and for the road bike. In fact, we don't even swap shoes - TriVents and road shoes for each of us.

OK, so we both wear the same helmets and sunglasses for training with the 2 bikes.

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"...the street finds its own uses for things"

...removing/replacing the wheelcover also includes:

• taking off the wheel and putting it back on
• messing with all of those plastic thingies or e-tape

Both pedals and crank are faster. Both can be swapped out in about a minute...maybe a little more if you have a trickier crank or older vector pedals.

To the OP, yes. Many, many people realistically swap their PM back and forth. I do it often.

Don't get me wrong. I'm not anti-PT hub or anti-disc cover. I actually race with a Wheelbuilder cover myself. Which is why I know it takes longer than a minute to install/remove the cover. I choose to tape the inside of the cover to the DS spokes and tape the outside to the rim to avoid any shifting and/or noise. Granted, my method is more time consuming than the plastic screw method.

Without video evidence, you won't convince me anyone can remove the wheel, remove the free hub (or cassette), remove the cover, replace the free hub (or cassette), and replace the wheel in anywhere near a minute.

With my Quarq, it's literally one 8 mm allen key used to loosen one bolt. Then, put the crank on the other bike and retighten the same one bolt.

Now, if the proposed race involved my two bikes being seperated by a 50 meter wide river that I had to swim across to complete the swap...then I'd surely lose.

Ha, that's a most excellent reply! I guess I was also assuming that a crank was coming off a bike and going onto the other with the usage of "swap" in this thread. Both bikes in and out of the work stand and so on. Neither method really takes that long. I think it all boils down to swapping isn't the worst thing. I have owned a couple powertaps, also use a disc cover and think it's a fantastic solution for most so I don't want people to be easily talked out of it. That being said, I swap 2 Power2max meters between 3 bikes.....but only make swaps a couple times a year.