Just buy a used chainring for like $75 on the 'bay to give it a try IMHO. $500 is a lot to spend on a crank that isn't a power meter...

The Omaga cranks are total turds. They may be the most turdly cranks available in the market. They weight like a pound more than anything else comparable, and they are so flexible laterally that you can see bad shifts. Get anything else. But, I would not spend $500. I bought a $200 used SRAM Red 22 crankset for my IA16, and I love it. Light as a feather and stiff. And it looks extra cool on that black & red frame.

I like my rotor cranks but you can do a lot better than $500 on them; I bet you can spend half that on eBay

If I were to spend $500 on cranks, I'd get the new power2max with rotor cranks for $490. Could pick up a used q ring if you want to give it a try for not much more.

Where are you seeing that deal? All I see is the Rotor version "spider only" for $490 (the NGeco). But the version with the FSA crank arms is $490 though.

But to the OP, if you're willing to spend $500 get a power meter based crankset instead. Plenty of used Q-rings on the classifieds here and on the 'bay to be had with plenty of life left in them (to try out).

x2

Great advice !

500 is for cranks and chainrings. Cranks alone is about 300
So 300+490 for the power2max to put on them is well above my 500 dollar range.
Plus I already have powertap p1 so no need for power

I'd definitely look for a used set of Q-rings. I'm sure there are a bunch floating around. I tried them for a while a few years back and didn't notice any difference with them at all, other than horrible shifting, so I sold them. I've read similar comments from other folks here, so I'm sure there are used Q-rings to be had.

Shouldn't mentioned you already had P1 pedals in the first post then. Just look for a used Rotor crank (or crankset) in the classifieds or the 'bay. Can be had for less than $300 for the cranks for a used set. Or anything else would work like SRAM Force or RED are nice too in the BB type that you are looking for.

Rotor is a great choice.... high quality crank that comes in very short lengths if needed.


First things first though, use some of that money to be absolutely certain that you are in your ideal crank length range before you spend any of it on a fancy new crankset.

You need to find a bike fitter that understands how to lead you through a proper process. In a nutshell, find the limits of your position with your current crank length (under a thresholdish load), AND THEN quickly change to a different length while equalizing for seat height, setback and drop. Do this as many times as necessary, while trying to ride a bit more drop at each shorter length. It can be really obvious, or it can take a few attempts, but over 90% of riders are able to make a decision when the process is done properly.

I’d suggest just going with Sram cranks. I mean, I love cranks and prefer THM, but sram with direct mount is wise and priced incredibly well. I’d try absolute black oval. Best shape I’ve used. Sram is starting to make oval rings (mtb only?). The new Rotor cranks with direct mount rings are the first Rotor cranks I’ve been drawn to, but they cost twice as much as Sram cranks

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It was hard setting my sram red crank with the QXL Chainrings for whatever reason.

If you're with rotor chainrings then I'd highly a Rotor crank or a shimano one... that stupid hidden bolt only created issues for me as far as running my di2 was concerned with... ended up buying a Rotor time trial 3d24 & I have the best di2 shifting ever! Just my .02

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Speed kills unless you have speed skills!!!

For $500, you can get a set of the S-Works cranks. They are supposed to have the best weight to stiffness ratio. The only problem is that they don't fit most frames out there.