If you were making a custom saddle, why would you not make a custom mold of your 'anatomy' for the carbon layup? Would this not reduce pressure points? It could be easily done with modeling clay to give a more uniform contact area, thus spreading out the pressure. After you have that, you could decide where the cutouts go.

Stephen J

Thanks for posting. I think ST can be a little brutal so putting your ideas out there is pretty cool.

I'm curious because I've made several saddles myself [I use fiberglass for cost]. Mostly reforming SMP Dynamic (cutting off the part that hurts the giblets), and a version of the PN 1.1. It looks like you're having someone else do the fabrication but I was wondering if you'd indulge me in some Q&A:

1. How are they/you bonding the rails to the shell? I've done this but my versions are a bit sloppy.
I don't know! Simmons did he appeared to use some epoxy that looks like tar: black and slightly globbed around where the rail attaches to the shell
2. It seems pretty narrow - obviously personal preference. My sweet spot is 7.5cm wide, 8cm from the nose. (statement, no real question :-)
So I do enjoy the wideness of the opening of the PN3.0, but the outside-outside measurement of the arms do hit nerves that cause my some issues, and interferes with seams. So, I'm still going with a wide opening, just narrower arms
3. The 8 degree bend seems too far back to use as pelvic rotation (assist). Do you plan to sit that far back? How did you come up with the length maybe is what I'm asking.
Agree. I measured this on my PN3.0 and found where my ischial tuberosity are touching on that saddle is 6-7cm back from the tip. I'm on the tilt and prefer to be on the tilt so maybe the flat section is more for make the saddle look less tilted, but also to see if it provides a 'cupping' effect. I'm unsure and will have to test it. I could always just try having molded 'craters' in the saddle arms that 'lock' me in place vs a tilt... unsure at this point
4. Any plans to add bottle bosses somewhere on this? I made a saddle from a carbon fork (yes, that true) and attached the water bottle holder that comes with the Fabric Tri saddle. It worked great! But the reach back to the cage was where I screwed up. Just curious if you've thought about adding bosses for bottles or some sort of storage (e.g. for a flat kit).
Not right now. I prefer to use my speedbox (Trek SC) and bottles up front vs outback and I have giant aero bottle that's replacing the bento box as seen on Tim Reed's Trek, and use downtube cages and jersey pockets for lock TT rides during training.

Great work man! Keep creating!