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(Probably) Simple road bike fit question
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Long time lurker. I was fit (finally) on my road bike a few months back. As part of my purchase process 7ish years ago, a rudimentary fit was done. After all that time, I just got one done professionally. I think it was a BodyGeometry fit session. As PART of the process, my flexibility was noted/tested (I say that because I do not want to incur anyone's wrath or open a can of worms). I am not flexible at all. That informed some of the set-up....for now (I hope). I have researched this some and came across two posts.

This post seems to reflect the unimportance of flexibility in fit.

This post (from many moons ago) seems to say that flexibility does, at least in part, play a role. Post #17 of this thread reflects my fit experience. Using the hamstring testing methodology in that post, I was barely able to get to 45*, if at all.

I have been doing a lot of mobility work to fix a mild anterior pelvic tilt/lower crossed thing going on. I think that was playing a huge role in my hamstring's ability to work/stretch.

My fitter moved me from 27mm of spacers to 25mm of spacers; from a 90mm stem at 6* up to a 110mm stem at 12* up; from 42cm bars to 44 cm bars. My saddle to bars drop is about 7cm and I use 175mm cranks. I am 6'3" and 215#ish and ride a 58cm bike.

Now, on to my question. I say all of that to ask if, with improved flexibility and mobility, I can start to lower my front end a bit. Can I, as I improve in those areas and as a rider, start removing spacers little by little, or flip my stem at some point. To be honest, part of me wants to so that the bike doesn't look as odd and is compliance with :"the rules." If I were to remove the 5mm spacer to start, what effect would that have on my fit? I want to avoid every time I improve my fitness, flexibility, and mobility to get REfit. That will get spendy.

Thanks in advance. I know I am asking a road-specific question on a tri forum, but this seems a) applicable if/when I do get a tri bike and b) the best place on the Internets for bike questions.
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Re: (Probably) Simple road bike fit question [JohnnyRocket] [ In reply to ]
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I have looked more into it and I just don't have the experience to know how a few mm or cm here or there in terms of stack and reach will affect comfort and performance. Looking at some stem comparison tools, I should either go the slow route of taking out spacers and then adding them but flipping the stem....or just go big or go home and flip the stem straight away. Some have said that going lower was actually MORE comfortable, but I also don't want to affect performance or ability to breathe well due to not being able to get into that position easily right now.

Anyone care to weigh in?
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Re: (Probably) Simple road bike fit question [JohnnyRocket] [ In reply to ]
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Are you comfortable now? Are you able to comfortably use all positions of the bars (tops, hoods, drops)? Those are the important questions. Don’t change anything for vanity’s sake, but if you drop a spacer and can still answer the first two questions in the affirmative, you can start going lower. There will eventually be a limit to how low you can go.

Static hamstring flexibility isn’t a great indicator of how low you can go, but it doesn’t mean your fit is bad either. Unlike a TT bike, traditional road fit is less directly influenced by hip rotation and dependent on a number of factors.
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Re: (Probably) Simple road bike fit question [JohnnyRocket] [ In reply to ]
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What frame are you on?

You have a 7cm saddle to bar drop. Which is well within the range of "normal".

Your upturned stem etc are probably more an effect of your body size vs. frame size vs. Frame headtube length.

You may never get to a downturned stem because of your height without going to a frame with an incredibly long head tube.

Worry about where you are. Worry about your current comfort. Do not work toward an arbitrary goal.

Regarding hamstring flexibility. Static flexibility may not be the best thing, but it's quick an easy. The situation is this:
If your hamstrings limit how far your pelvis can rotate, then it is up to your back to make up the difference. I'm sure you can achieve a low bar position right now, your back just has to make up for what your hips can't do.

It's like buying something expensive without having enough cash. Do you put it on the credit card (make your back do the work) or do you save a little longer and buy when you have the funds (working on pelvic rotation/ hamstrings).

Which are your comfortable with?

I talk a lot - Give it a listen: http://www.fasttalklabs.com/category/fast-talk
I also give Training Advice via http://www.ForeverEndurance.com

The above poster has eschewed traditional employment and is currently undertaking the ill-conceived task of launching his own hardgoods company. Statements are not made on behalf of nor reflective of anything in any manner... unless they're good, then they count.
http://www.AGNCYINNOVATION.com
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Re: (Probably) Simple road bike fit question [xtrpickels] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks for the response! Makes total sense. Trial and error.

I want to make sure I understand though. My fitter put me into that position for a reason; I know, though, it is not the end all, be all. So, should comfort/performance allow changing that up is fine? Fits are not cheap and I want to make sure I am not "wrecking" what I paid money for (although, I suppose, it is easy enough to change back...)
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