Went from 170 to 165. I like it. Not life changing but I feel better off the bike.

I like the Bluetooth in the dzero a lot. Everything I train with is BT now and I don’t have to worry with ant+ sticks (use a laptop but can now use my phone if needed).

The Elsa was great though but I sold mine so I could have a newer unit that will last longer.

This is correct. The 8-bolt attachment is all about improved zero offset accuracy. The 8-bolt design uses fasteners with a tapered interface. The taper allows the spider to center itself on the fasteners, this reduces motion and improves accuracy. The design copies the way the lug nuts work on your car.

We made the switch to 8-bolt for all powermeters. MTB cranks stayed 3-bolt for better compatibility.

Jim

---

James Meyer
Quarq Founder / SRAM

pyrahna,

The hidden bolt (HB) vs. non-hidden bolt (NHB) is certainly annoying from a SKU standpoint.

HB is for upgrade of SRAM Red carbon cranks. NHB fits all other 5 arm chainrings. As mentioned elsewhere in the thread, new SRAM chainrings will fit both.

We looked for ways to allow a single power meter to be mounted in either position. If we did a 10-bolt interface, then a user could clock the spider in 36 degree increments. The problem is our BB30 spindles have a spline pattern with 8 lobes. The 8-bolt interface fits between these lobes, there is not enough room for anything different.

Thats the background story. Of course, anyone that needs help with purchase is welcome to just give us a ring and one of our customer service techs will answer any questions you have got.

Jim

---

James Meyer
Quarq Founder / SRAM

hwangnyc,

Feel free to give us a call 605-642-2226 or an email thinkfast@quarq.com

We would be happy to walk through any questions you have got, new or used.

Best,

Jim

---

James Meyer
Quarq Founder / SRAM

I just recently swapped cranks arms on my Elsa. Had 172.5 and went to Force 22 165 arms. Easy job and took me less than 15 minutes to swap them out. Used green loctite behind the spider and blue on the bolts (torx head). Only thing I didn't do was a new calibration but the numbers didn't seem to shift be very much. I'll get around to it eventually as I do have access to certified weights I can use.

Look up on this forum as another member posted instructions on how to swap them complete with torque values for the bolts and the loctite types to use.

Thanks! This is tremendously reassuring. The amateur mechanic in me was scared of wrenching the crankset, particularly the power meter itself. Upon further review, it appears very straightforward.

Not to derail the thread, but what can you tell me about Force 22 crankarms? Why did you select that crank? Has the change been beneficial?

I've been in touch with Quarq (very responsive BTW), who recommends recalibration when making the change. Good to know that is not "absolutely" necessary.

I'll search for that swap thread now. Just another example of what a great resource we have in Slowtwitch!

Scott

I used Force 22 because it was more readily available and uses the same 3 bolt spider interface as my Elsa. They are also carbon arms. No real benefits using them over the carbon quarq branded arms they replaced except they were the length I was looking for.

Pretty much any SRAM crank will fit as long as the spider interface is the same. So a Rival set will work too or older SRAM crank models that have the same spider interface. Quarq branded crank arms only are hard to come by not directly from quarq in shorter lengths (they aren't cheap if you go go through them). I went with Force because I wanted to stay carbon arms and found a deal on the cranks with no chainrings for a used set (didn't need another set of chainrings at the time).