Powertap hub.

Wait for the new Garmin Vector Gen 3?

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I spent a bunch of time, a couple months ago, trying to figure out how to best do a power meter for my tri bike and my road bike, the priority being the tribike on the trainer. The closest I got to a silver bullet was a powertap wheel I bought on ebay that I could swap between bikes. It's only downside is that it wouldn't be something to do a triathlon with.

It's cool that TrainerRoad has a lot of trainer's calibrated so that you can end up with power pretty easily on a stationary trainer.

Ultimately I put a power crank on the tribike so I'd have power info in races. Since the powertap wheel on ebay was cheap, the overall cost wasn't so bad.

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Books @ Amazon
"If only he had used his genius for niceness, instead of Evil." M. Smart

Well... I only see 4 options, and the best two have been called out already...

1. Garmin Vector 2 pedals (or wait for Vector 3)
2. PowerTap Hub
3. Convert one of the bikes to a standard that matches the other, and then get a crank PM
4. Figure out why you have a high failure rate with the P1 pedals to avoid future failures

Powertap hub, approx. 10 years old and still going strong.

Get a stages for each. They're cheap and good quality. Problem solved

Did you contact Saris in regards to your three failed sets of pedals. They have pretty good customer service and they might help you out with a price break for a hub if you are still interested in that brand. Having said all that, I own two of their hubs and have never had a problem with them. Have had one for about eight years and the second for about three years.

I'm very surprised regarding your failed pedals. That said, your next best option is to convert one of your bikes' bottom brackets (pick: either 24mm Shimano or GXP) and get a crank-based power meter. I'm a fan of Power2Max but Quarq has a great reputation as well.

Go Pioneer add a Shimano crank to other bike. Get the full unit. You can split up and they can work independently or as 1 unit. Plus it's extremely reliable

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http://www.TriScottsdale.org

Powertap would be my suggestion assuming you can get away with one rear wheel. A standard aluminum hoop you can use on your road and tri bike for training, and slap a disc cover on it for racing tri/TTs. Or if you're the type who likes to train on your race wheels, then slap a PT in the rear of your race wheels.

If you need more flexibility in your rear wheel choices between training, tri/TT, and road racing, then I would probably go crank based with Power2Max or Quarq.

Those are good ideas. When I was fighting this issue in the Spring, if I didn't already have a disc wheel, the idea of a powertap wheel with a cover would have been ideal. I just couldn't make myself walk away from my old friend, that 20yr old Zipp disc.

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Books @ Amazon
"If only he had used his genius for niceness, instead of Evil." M. Smart

Agree re. Saris support.
My partner and I have gone through a couple sets of pedals each and we've had fairly prompt support each time. The last time we had a failure I made some noise about being over sending them back all the time (NZ based, purchased online..) and they shipped a replacement set and didn't ask for the faulty set back.

We've not had any failures for 9 months or so now, I reckon I've worked out the problem we had. A pedal(s) would go dead, replace the battery and all good, but dead again in a day. So I reckon they suffer from water ingress and I've now taken to removing the pedals pre-washing, or putting the bikes on the car if it is potentially a wet journey. I've also applied a layer of grease on the battery cap threads to get another layer of protection from water ingress.

We've not had any problems since doing the above...

Powertap hubs are fairly lightweight now, and relatively bombproof. They are tried and true. That's the direction that I would take.

I gotta try this. How do you do this? Do you need a Pioneer Head unit (computer) to split up the the crank arms?

Power tap. Mostly because I have had v little functioning problems in the 7 years I have had mine ( I now have 2 as have one on a set of race wheels ) but also because the customer service I received from Saris in the US when I did run into problems was excellent ( I do not reside in the US - ended up being sorted out by them due to the indifference, poor customer service and attitude of whoever it was in Australia I was trying to deal with ). Also swung me when purchasing my recent smart trainer so I bought a Cyclops Hammer rather than the Wahoo.

https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/...20Guide%207-7-16.pdf

Page 6

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http://www.TriScottsdale.org

I had two Powertap wheels (racing and training) for seven years before switching to a Power2Max crank based PM last season. Both worked great, but I definitely prefer the P2M. The only thing I've had to do with it was change the battery once - pretty easy!

I'm actually considering getting a PowerPod for my road bike. It is a power meter that takes into account several parameters to get your power - just a thought.

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thanks! Much appreciated.

Powertap hub or Quarq (put a GXP BB in the Shimano bike, reuse chainrings).

Personally Quark is so well priced and performs so well, I'd get two. It's possible you could be able to just use a DZero spider on your SRAM bike.

Powertap hubs are uber good - mine, and others, preferred power meter for aero testing.

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Developing aero, fit and other fun stuff at Red is Faster

Exactly what I have done, in fact after two failed Powertap C1 units...

Always find it interesting on the P1 pedals. Some people appear to just have bad luck. I have had mine since launch and still going strong.

If your crank arms are hollow aluminum you can go with the Watteam Powerbeat power meter.

3 sets of failed pedals is weird. We see issues now and then but they're usually really good. I'm sure PT Support suggested it...but did you try new battery caps? It's really a miracle cure for the P1s. If you haven't and still have the pedals, message me and I'll put some in the mail to you.

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Power Meter City
Your Power Meter Specialists

https://cycling.favero.com/


As far as I know this is the cheapest option for dual side based PM. Im now riding +1 year with the BePro. For training it is perfect. In a triathlon race it can take a minute before the PM wakes up.


I've changed the pedal a couple of times form bikes (less then 10 times). I do get the feeling that if I do it 10 more times it might break. So next year I will but another PM. I was looking at a spider-based PM, but just recently learned that Favero has a new version of their pedals. Installation has become more easy. I'm now really considering this new Assomia version.

I assume everyone is torqueing the battery caps back on to spec? I've had the pedals for about 9 months with 0 issues and several battery changes.