Tom A. is a big advocate of this piece of kit: https://www.genuineinnovations.com/...eless-repair-kit.php

I have not tried it yet.

So I had my first mishap with the corsa speeds. Was in a crit race on a nice track in a park (not an open road that gets lots of car traffic). Somehow sliced my tire pretty good, sealant went everywhere. It had barely enough air left in it to make it back around to neutral wheels to be able to finish the race. Then back home a few days later went and pumped it up. It held to about 80 then started leaking air as I went higher than that. There was a little bulb in the tire where the slice was. I decided to insert on of these bacon strips. So I poked one in there. As I re-pumped up the pressure the bacon started slipping out and eventually shot across the garage. I guess the damage to the tire was too wide for one strip to grip to? So I guess I've either got to put a tube in this tire or get a new one. Didn't even have 200 miles on that tire probably.

Out of curiosity was the cut under the tread or the sidewall?

tread

I have a H3+ front and a Jet+ disc, both with Vittoria Corsa Speed set-up tubeless

I tried using the tire jack, and it was a disappointment. It left scratches on the rim itself, though those are probably cosmetic. I have heard of the spray of soapy water trick, but didn't believe that it would do much; however, that strategy allows for a much easier mounting of tires.

So i now carry regular tire levers (Pedro's) and a small spray bottle of soapy water. The size of the bottle is quite a bit less than that of the tire jack. Installing the tire with tube is also made a lot easier

You are more than welcome on the Kool Stop Bead Jack. I don't actually plan to really train on the Corsa Speeds but I also picked up the Genuine Innovations Tubeless Patch Kit as recommended by Tom A. Hopefully I never have to use them.

---

---

Save: $50 on Speed Hound Recovery Boots | $20 on Air Relax| $100 on Normatec| 15% on Most Absorbable Magnesium

Blogs: Best CHEAP Zwift / Bike Trainer Desk | Theragun G3 vs $140 Bivi Percussive Massager | Normatec Pulse 2.0 vs Normatec Pulse | Speed Hound vs Normatec | Air Relax vs Normatec | Q1 2018 Blood Test Results | | Why HED JET+ Is The BEST value wheelset

I had them on a set of Easton EA90SLX, and the installation was no more difficult than others, IIRC. I have no idea what causes the difficulty in the HED Jet, but carrying soapy water or big tire jack don't appeal to me at all.

In my view, these tires are complete waste of time because they flat so easily. I had 3 flats within 2 months riding around my normal routes (which I have had only handful of flats in over 10 years). Two of these flats were big slices/cuts at the bottom of the tire and not fixable; the other one is a hole apparently punctured by a sharp pebble less than 2mm in diameter, and I was able to patch the tire up. None of these flats were sealed by the sealant in the tire.

One thing I can say for sure, however, is that these tires are very fast and light. But I think the unpredictability in its puncture resistance is not worth the risk unless you ride on really nice roads or on track.

BTW, I bought 4 of them thinking I finally found my racing and fast riding tire. Two of them are dead (>$100 for less than 2 months), and after my 3rd flat and patched one up, I took them off my wheels because I have completely lost confidence in them. So if you are lucky enough to live in an area with super smooth roads and want to ride them, you can probably have them for cheap.

Yeah, after reading the experience of others/most here, I think you're right. Great potential tire, but the execution isn't there quite yet. I may stick with gp 4000s until corsa speed v2.0 debuts.

---

------------------------------------------------------------
Any run that doesn't include pooping in someone's front yard is a win.

I would bet I'm one of the only people here that's successfully fixed a flat Corsa Speed in a race situation....with plastic levers. The beads will stretch a little bit after use. I had to mount mine on a different wheelset at max psi before I could even mount them on Hadrons with a bead jack and soapy water. After a few weeks and usually storing (not riding) them at max pressure, the beads did loosen up a little. Tubeless beads are meant to stay super tight, but even a couple mm of wiggle room will make a difference.

My first puncture in at least 3 years was with those tires with less than 50 miles on them. It cut both sidewalls and a small part of the tread. A normal tube patch and glue on the inside has held it just fine this year for a TT and a sprint tri.

I have a set of GP TTs on my training wheels at the moment. I'm purposely beating on them (sort of) to test their durability. I logged about 200 miles last week on the farm roads out by the Boulder Reservoir last week without a flat and there was plenty of fine gravel etc on the shoulders. At one point I accidentally rode down a road that was under construction (literally fine gravel) for about a mile. I stopped, picked some of the "sticky" stuff off my tires and carried on.

TG has a theory that Continental's 3/330 casing and Vectran breaker make it more durable than its tread thickness would indicate.

For me, mounting the Corsa Speeds to my Jets was basically impossible. Mounting them to my 404 NSWs with a tube wasn't too bad but I think I'm going to sell those wheels.

I use that Genuine Innovations kit for my tubeless mountain bike tires. It's the best kit I've come across. I've had flats in racing and training (mostly punctures) and it will seal and hold for days. Very easy and quick to use. The little strips fill the hole and the stans seals around it. While it works well on punctures or "holes" I don't know how it would work on a large tear...but I carry it with me on every mountain bike ride.

...and in counter to that, I had one Corsa Speed set up tubeless on the rear of my road bike and it lasted >1300 miles of training use before wearing the tread to the cords.

I had one instance where a small wire had embedded in the tread that leaked when I pulled it out (I saw it before a ride and stupidly hadn't spun the wheel to distribute the sealant before I pulled it...would only hold pressure to ~60psi), but within an hour it was holding 85psi just fine. I never had to patch or plug it.

My first line of repair for tubeless punctures is now using the GI plug tool with some 2" lengths of cotton butcher's cord. That, in combo with the sealant, usually prevents having to pop the bead and insert a tube. If that doesn't seem to be working, I'll either try a 2nd cord (if it's a large puncture) alongside the first, or go right to the "bacon strips". Only if those options fail do I resort to the tube.

Admittedly, the plug technique works better on lower pressure applications...but, since most of the tires I ride most often these days tend to be quite wide (e.g. "all-road" applications...but heck, even my road bike has a tire on the back measuring ~28mm wide) and naturally use lower pressures.

---

http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/

Thanks Tom, so for punctures you use the Genuine Innovations insertion tool with cotton butcher's cord, instead of using the butyl rubber plugs that comes with the GI tubeless tire repair kit? any reason for that?
Can you provide more details on the cotton butcher's cord you have used?

You mentioned this plug technique works better in lower pressure applications, based on your experience what could be the max tire pressure after fixing the tire with plugs?

Everyone's mileage will vary with these tires.

My N=1 experience is that I've run a Corsa Speed on my rear disc for 8 races now on not perfect roads or near perfect roads with gravel and rocks in the bike lane. The tire has picked up one piece of wire that did not go deep enough to penetrate the thread and puncture my tube. I had a Corsa Speed on my front wheel (HED H3+), but have since switched to a Conti SS 20c since it fits the rim better aero wise.

Now one tire I do have puncture issues with is Schwalbe Pro Ones. I bought 5 tires and pretty sure 4 or maybe all 5 have seen a puncture so far, though they do seem to seal up well for being so puncture prone for me.

When I first read about patching tubeless punctures in MTB tires, it was about how some people were cutting small swatches out of old T-shirts and pushing them into the puncture hole with the threaded end of a spoke so that the sealant would have something to "clot" on...when I saw the GI tool, my first thought was to do the same with cotton twine. Butcher's cord, which is used to tie up briskets and such, is commonly available at grocery and other stores. I found a roll in the rope/twine section at my local hardware store. Once you have the tool, it's a pretty inexpensive solution.

Being coated with rubber, the supplied plugs don't necessarily soak up the sealant like the butcher's cord. That said, I've found that in wet conditions, they work better than the butcher's cord, where the sealant will tend to not "dry up" around the cord as easily. I basically save them for that type of situation.




On a road tire, depending on the size of the opening and how well the plug works, I've been able to get the tire to hold up to ~70-80 psi immediately after. Usually after the sealant "works" for an hour or 2, you can put in more...although I don't run much more than that on the road tires I run tubeless anyway. The "plug" ends up being fairly permanent. I haven't had a case yet where I've needed to patch a puncture area later after plugging. The loop end of the cord forms a sort of solidified "mushroom head" on inside of the casing, and it's not going to be coming back out...while internal air pressure keeps it from getting pushed further in. Here's what the plug looks like on the inside after installation. I took these pics when I retired this particular tire from service. The second pic is from a cut that took TWO of the cords, installed side-by-side, to fully plug.

---

http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/

My problem is with mounting the tire. I have it on the wheel, but its in the middle of the rim. How do i get that tire to get to the outsides and to bead. It is so tight that its stuck in the middle and i cant get it go use the whole rim bed if that makes sense.

---

Insta: Trihennessy - Out Rival Racing Elite Team
- Roka - WattieInk - NormaTec - QUINTANA ROO - Profile Design - Pioneer - Gatorade Endurance

Ummm...you pump it up?

---

http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/

If for your installation the tire isn't holding enough air to get the tire to expand and pop the beads out you can try using soapy water to help form a bit of a seal. Using an air compressor or one of the newer purpose-designed tubeless pumps will help too. My experience is with mtb and fatbike tubeless tires.

I haven't gone full tubeless on road tires yet, but have installed tires/tubes on tubeless ready rims. For these installs, on the rims we have, it can take pressures of 100-120psi to get the beads to fully seat around the rim, even though post install riding pressure will be lower.

If you are seriously considering selling those 404 nsw's, let me know. I may be interested.

---

blog

One of my wheels was facing that issue, even with compressor the air wasn't moving the tire bead to the sides, but then I removed the presta valve core and connect the compressor directly to the valve body and immediately the tire beads went to the sides and inflated quickly.