I'm currently using a Moon Sport LX-760 (http://www.moon-sport.com/...ct-detail.php?id=140)

760 lumens at its brighest, but I manage to get by with a lower setting

most of my cycling surroundings have street lamps so not totally dark though

Seems like someone needs trainerroad... It will make you way faster than any light ever will. ;)

---

@floathammerholdon | @partners_in_tri

No doubt, too much money to get into it right now. Figure I can invest in a light and if I stick with it long enough I'll reward myself... :)

A year of TR will cost less than a good light.

Frankly I have been using NiteRider lights with very good success over the years. Specifically my primary light is the the Night Rider Lumina 750 going on like 4 years now. Very bright, nice easy locking feature so don't burn a hole in your bag accidentally, and nice easy mount that you can move from bike to bike. It has been 100% reliable. Looks like they have 950 now too but I don't know much about it. I think the only requirement other requirement for my next light is that it charges via USB Type C.

---

---

Save: $50 on Speed Hound Recovery Boots | $20 on Air Relax| $100 on Normatec| 15% on Most Absorbable Magnesium

Blogs: Best CHEAP Zwift / Bike Trainer Desk | Theragun G3 vs $140 Bivi Percussive Massager | Normatec Pulse 2.0 vs Normatec Pulse | Speed Hound vs Normatec | Air Relax vs Normatec | Q1 2018 Blood Test Results | | Why HED JET+ Is The BEST value wheelset

I've got o e of these. Works quite well. Cheap too.

TianNorth® Rechargeable 6000Lm 3X CREE XM-L U2 LED Head Front Bike Bicycle light HeadLight RED

https://www.amazon.com/...cp_apa_LVQbzb013TBMX

I use Moon front and rear and recommend them.

Important: 50 lumens or more (but anything above 200 is overkill), wide angle, USB recharge, and flexible mounting options.

Edit: if you have a flasher on the front don't make it especially bright. The contrast will kill your ability to see anything else, reducing your situational awareness.

---

'It never gets easier, you just get crazier.'

I have the 950 and love it, but you'll make no friends using the highest setting. :)

I've been using the Bontrager Ion 700 (I think now they replaced it with the 800) and a Bontrager Flare R on the rear.

I've been using the Cygolite Metro 360 (front) and hotshot 2w (rear) for ~4 years now with no issues. Specifically I have been using them for my morning commute at early hours of dawn or at dusk (depending on time of year) where there is some light, but not much. The hotshot 2w provides excellent vision for the rear and the metro360 is more than enough lumen's to make the trail light enough to see any debris or other hazards. I also value the different modes on the metro 360, one of which is a flashing mode which is good for daytime cycling and I will turn that mode on as I approach an intersection where I am worried about traffic trying to turn into me. Battery life is good for both units and they are rechargeable. To be clear though, I do not have much experience with other lights. I bought these after a recommendation from a friend and they have been good to me so I haven't tried any others.

I have had good luck with Serfas lights. I use the 500 for trail, night time MTB and Commuter riding. Small, bright and has a helmet or handle bar mount.

---

Ian

The type of light does matter based on where you will be riding. If you are in town, it is more important for you to be visible to drivers, like the friend of mine who has multiple blinking lights to grab their attention but only a weak headlight. If you are like me and ride extremely dark country roads, redundant front lights are necessary, partially to illuminate the most area (one on the handlebars and one on the helmet), but partially because if the only light you have cuts out and it is so dark that you can't see the ground, you will crash and to add excitement, roll into a ditch full of poison ivy.

Also, don't just focus on your headlight. Not only is a red, blinking light in the back a good idea, some states require them.

Riding in a suburban/rural setting. I have headlamp that I can use on my helmet and would be buying a nice bright rear taillight.

Sounds like 700 lumens is a safe bet

Whatever gets you turning the cranks makes you faster. For me, that's actual riding. In fact the whole point for me is to get out in the world. And competition makes a nice targeted goal that provides some structure to that time. Night riding is particularly fun.

How much light is there on your route? Lit roads, or dark backroads with a lot of obstacles?

If you have some light on good roads, something like a Niterider Milinewt (now Lumina or Mako) would work fine, and is easy to mount/use, and not too expensive. You can probably get away with 200+ lumens.

For darker roads where you really need to see, a setup more akin to trail riding would be appropriate and will cost more. I have used Niterider systems in the past, but currently use a bar and helmet mounted Light and Motion system with separate battery packs. Here you want 800+ single or 1000+ combo lumens.

Suburban setting has intermittent street lights
Farm roads in the rural settings I'd get into would be close to pitch black. Hence the 700 lumens. I figure "high" for back roads and "medium" for suburban roads. Fair?

The light I referenced above is 6000 lm on high. Lo = 2000, Med = 4000. I live in the country with zero street lights. I generally run on low, which is similar brightness to automotive standard-beams....I can see a long way. I only rarely need med/High...its very nice to have it. It also comes with a head-lamp strap if you prefer that. But, 6000 lm for $25, its pretty hard to beat. It may or may not actually be 6000 lm, but like I said...it is as bright as car headlights on Low. High is like car-brights.

I've been using it on and off for over a year, never had a problem with it (except when I forget to charge it---which is hard to blame on the unit).

+1

I've found you need at least 600 lumens to ride safely on the road at speeds below 30 km/h; above that you'll need more lumens or a second light.

A Serfas 650 lumen USB light is fine for riding to work on dark country backroads with no streetlights.

---

"It's Ironman - it's supposed to be hard!"

Author of "Letters to a Driving Nation: Exploring the Conflict between Drivers and Cyclists." http://www.brucebutler.ca

I am used to being harassed about my lights. It comes with my territory. If only people paid attention.

---

---

Save: $50 on Speed Hound Recovery Boots | $20 on Air Relax| $100 on Normatec| 15% on Most Absorbable Magnesium

Blogs: Best CHEAP Zwift / Bike Trainer Desk | Theragun G3 vs $140 Bivi Percussive Massager | Normatec Pulse 2.0 vs Normatec Pulse | Speed Hound vs Normatec | Air Relax vs Normatec | Q1 2018 Blood Test Results | | Why HED JET+ Is The BEST value wheelset

Based on the LEDs that come with that light, a high quality light using that configuration with a good heat sink is probably around 2000 lumens or so. Amazon sellers often use theoretical inflated outputs, not actual outputs. That being said a light that's 1500 to 2000 of actual lumens is very bright and higher than a single car high beam headlight on high, which is roughly 1200 lumens.

Here is a legitimate 6000 lumen light by cateye, and it is crazy, crazy bright.

http://www.cateye.com/...-EL6000RC/beamchart/

I do night rides quite frequently in the winter months. I've been using the Wilma light by Lupine. I'm a lumen junkie, and Lupine lights are pricey, but really, really nice.

It also never hurts to have a cheap reliable blinks light as a backup in case your primary light fails.

The cateye volt 1600 is a really nice light that is at a great price point for a very reliable self contained light.

https://www.amazon.com/...ds=Cateye+volt+500xc