https://www.bing.com/...A4F53A&FORM=VIRE

http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...iRig.com)_P3778045-4

Edit: Not sure of a mod with the rear brake cable. Above is still in the 'normal' routing for rear brake.

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Formerly TriBrad02

Sorry, i meant to say for the 2014+ P2. I did see the slowtwitch post you linked during my futile search. Thanks for your response.

I just did mine. Check the BWtri post on his P3 for the cabling - but it was a matter of taking the fork out and putting the cable housing in from back to front. It was a little hairy, but man, looks SO much better. The cable didn't really want to go past the tight curve without some pressure but once it did, it was obviously easy. The brakes feel pretty much the same as they did before - just wish I had done it earlier.

Hope this helps!

Brent

ETA this is the post: http://forum.slowtwitch.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25;

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DFRU - Detta Family Racing Unit...the kids like it and we all get out and after it...gotta keep the fam involved!

Now that I am running 1x I might try to have the rear brake enter behind the stem as the modification is already there for the FD. This is a good idea.

I have done the modification enough times to believe i have fished the cable through in all ways possible. Taking the fork of like Brent and Brad does is definately recomendable. But I find it easier to go front to rear.

1: Push the cable from the top tube entry point and out of the lower bearing seat at the head tube.
2: Loop the Cable and push it from the lower headtube towards the exit point at the rear end of the top tube in a more or less straight line. Then it should be easily fished out with either a dentist tool, small allen key or spoke.
3: Take a bit of care when putting the excess cable at the lower headset bearing seat back into the frame. Hold the excess cable with one hand, to make sure you dont kink the cable. At the same time pulling gently on the cable at the top tube entry point with the other hand. Easily done right. But also easy to kink the cable, if you just do a ham fisted pull.
4: If cable brakes put a 5 mm drill to the rear cable stop to let the cable slip through, or source a cable non stop for hydraulic brake lines that allready has the 5 mm hole. (Drilling the stop is really simple as long as you have a vice to hold it)

/Henrik

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Disclaimer: I have made a living in bike shops for more than 2 decades, so according to most people on this forum am not at all trust worthy