What Campy drivetrain do you have? If it's a typical 11-speed system, get the Chorus or Record Ultra-Narrow.

http://www.planetcyclery.com/...mFWtXCWUMaAg2O8P8HAQ

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''The enemy isn't conservatism. The enemy isn't liberalism. The enemy is bulls**t.''

—Lars-Erik Nelson

Get a Record or Chorus chain.

114 links or longer will be fine.

thanks guys

For an 11-chain of Campagnolo you need a >100 $ tool to mount it.
No you don't need a campagnolo chain. Any 11-chain will be fine.

Get a Record chain, I ride mine 5 k miles which is a lot longer than other chains. You do need a peening tool for the connecting link, but Park makes a cheap one. It is not $100. Make sure your shop understands how to install a campy chain.

I buy all my campy from UK mail order like Wiggle.

I also use campy chains because they seem to be very durable (I used to use shimano ultegra but when they changed from 9 to 10 speed I had some issues).

I have the expensive campy tool and did not know there is this park peening tool which costs indeed only about 50$. As I understand though, this tool is only for the last peening step, to enter or exit the pin of the chain you need additionally a "normal" chain tool.

I do consider a Wippermann chain now, they seem to have little friction-resistance (a couple of months ago there was an article on ST on that) , and, for the threadowner: they have a connecting link which does not require an installation tool (at least as I understand). Of course you still need a tool to shorten the chain.

I think chorus is the best price v performance balance for the campy consumables.

I am sure I read somewhere that campy won't warrant drivetrain stuff if it's not used with a campy chain (if warranty is important to you), also mentioning noise etc - you wouldn't expect anything else from an OE though would you ... lol

What I can say is that at 1000 mile with slick lube, my campy chain still measures as new and has a long way to go before getting near campys recommend limit. Compared to my KMC x8 and x9 on my MTB's it's defo better finished, much smoother edges etc.

Price wise they are in the same ballpark - it's the fitting that's the stumbling block .

WD :-)

I prefer KMC 11sp chains and they come with a quicklink

I've always ran Dura Ace chains on my Campy stuff with no problems.

I've used wipperman chains on all my campy 10 spd bikes with success, and they make 11 spd chains that'll work on your bike also.
IT's a quality product, plus it comes with connex link for easy install/removal

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Quality of the Campy chains is hard to beat, but I don't like the new pin design for the 11 speed chains. The YNB 11 speed links work great I get mine from Molten Speed wax and if you aren't using a waxed chain you are missing out. Wax a new chain and then use the squirt lube. Soooo much better then petroleum based crap.

Me too, for years now, and I've used them on Shimano, Campy and SRAM components. They work perfect and no pin or expensive tool to mess with. And KMC 11 speed chains can be found easily online for $20-$25 dollars, so I really don't care if they last 5000km or not. That said, I've never had one break or start shifting badly.
As a general rule of thumb, I put on a new chain in late May for race season, use it all summer and then all fall/winter/spring on the trainer, then replace again the next May...

You can use any cheap chain tool to start the link, then the peening tool to finish. You can break the chain to service it at any point if you have back up pins. You are supposed to break the chain 4-5 links from your last break, if that makes sense.

I think the only difference between Record Chains and Chorus is weight. You can buy either from within $3 on wiggle, so I go with the Record one. I think it is 20 grams lighter.

Do I have to remove any links? I put it on, but when in the little ring there is some slack....

About to take it to a bike shop...

Good idea. :)

By a good book, and/or watch youtube videos. Once you see how to do this stuff, it is easy.
And, yes, it is quite normal to have to remove a few links when new, depending on the size of your gearing, chainstay length, etc.

The classic method is to put the chain on the big ring and smallest cog then size the chain so the jockey wheels line up vertically.

But there are a couple other ways. One school of thought is use the longest chain possible, i.e. just short enough that the rear mech does not contact the cogs when in the small-small gear. Another school of thought is to use the shortest chain possible, i.e. just long enough that it is possible to get into the big-big gear. Watch some Youtube videos to listen to people's logic for each method.

The big-big method results in better shifting and makes sure you don't damage the rear derailleur if you try to use the big-big gear.

The method I use. It's worked on everything from Shimano XT mtb setup, through 10sp Ultegra, to my DIY 1x CX setup with a SRAM X9 and a MTB cassette on a steel CX bike. Youtube the stuff.

Cheers!