I have since laced the wheel (20 hole radial) and finger tightened each spoke and ended up with a spokes bottoming out prior to getting full tension.

The probable cause of this is not allowing for spoke stretch on these thin spokes.
I usually allow 2mm over a standard 14g.

Are you bottoming out with only finger tension? Do you have a good spoke holder?

So if I understand correctly you are bottoming out before you even put any tension on the spoke at all? Spoke is sticking out past the nipple a couple mm? As I recall these spokes will stretch ~1mm max. But there is additional distortion of the rim, hub, and J-bend primarily. I think you are off more than 2mm. If it was 2mm off and you had a good spoke holder, I'd say go ahead and build it, but don't go crazy with tension, keep it ~80kg. Washers will help.

Check to make sure the spokes are actually the length you ordered. Measure the hub and rim and and calculate the length again. Shouldn't be any surprises.

So I fucked up on the length of spokes for my flo wheel build. I measured and re-measured the ERD and thought I had everything correct.

I used a reputable calculator and was given the number 277. I order 278 as per advice I received from an expert. I have since laced the wheel (20 hole radial0 and finger tightened each spoke and ended up with a spokes bottoming out prior to getting full tension.

I live in Northern Canada, I do not have access to anyone who sells these spokes, or as far as I know cuts them.

Any ideas?
Maybe add a second nipple washer (They are 14mm so I can do that) but that might not be enough. Perhaps someone knows someone that can cut spokes in Canada. Perhaps Calgary or Edmonton?


P.s Are flo rims drilled in alternate pattern, if so it is hard to tell...

P.s Are flo rims drilled in alternate pattern, if so it is hard to tell...

OK, for the purpose of everything below, let’s pretend the rim is on the bike in the upright position and you are sat on the bike :-)

· Starting next to the valve, position a spoke hole on the bottom of the wheel.
· Loosely hold the cocktail stick (or round section of the spoke etc) in the spoke hole.
· Loosely lean it over to the crank side of the bike – note the position.
· Loosely lean it over to the non crank side of the bike – note the position.
· Compared to vertical, rocking it to one side will produce far greater movement than rocking it to the other. Take note of which way rocks most.
· Rotate wheel one spoke hole and repeat – you should note the same movement but to the opposite side of the bike.

If we pretend that the cocktail stick (or spoke) is a clock hand I found that :

· The first hole allowed movement between 11 & 12.
· The second hole allowed movement between 12 & 1.
· The third hole allowed movement between 11 & 12.
· Fourth = 12 & 1
· Etc

Once you know the above you can decide which is the left and right side of the rim and which is the first spoke etc.

There may be other easier ways (like the manufacturer putting a sticker on the rim lol) but the above worked well on my rims and when you try it - it produces a very obvious result.

WD :-)

I thought they were.

The offset from center must be small. Perhaps half mm?

Yes. 0.38mm on the FLO 30s and the Carbon Clincher FLO 45, 60 and 90 are all centered but angled.

Are the Flo 30's angled as well or just offset.?