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Re: One more reason Cervelo's BBRight sucks [jens] [ In reply to ]
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on the plus side....master nats schedule is now out :)
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Re: One more reason Cervelo's BBRight sucks [jens] [ In reply to ]
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have you read the official p5 thread which is currently on front page? Damon or David spoke of the mold release that remains in the BB of the P5 which sometimes causes interference with some BB's. I do not know if this is the reason bbinfinite excludes the P5 from its product list or if it is the cause of your "misalignment" . I think it was mentioned one could carefully sand away the excess to get things to work. if that was the case I can see why bbinfinite would exclude the P5 instead of taking on the liability of suggesting, to an overzealous individual, going too far on the sanding.

might be worth searching for that and checking your particular frame.

we need you to figure this out so we can hear your review of wavy washers next :)
Last edited by: jeffp: Feb 15, 17 19:17
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Re: One more reason Cervelo's BBRight sucks [jeffp] [ In reply to ]
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That's a good point. I did not see that. Coincidentally, it's exactly what we were contemplating. I have some doubts about sanding even the inside of a frame, though. Especially when I have the P3C waiting in the wings. For my next OBRA TT, it will be sporting these. No frickin Pressfit, just good old-fashioned Italian square taper. I think I bought the only set of 150s in existence.



My latest book: "Out of the Melting Pot, Into the Fire" is on sale on Amazon and at other online and local booksellers
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Re: One more reason Cervelo's BBRight sucks [jeffp] [ In reply to ]
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Hello jeffp and All,

My P5 required at bottom bracket ream to fit the Ceramic Speed bottom bracket.

Cheers, Neal

+1 mph Faster
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Re: One more reason Cervelo's BBRight sucks [davews09] [ In reply to ]
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davews09 wrote:
Also it's laughable to think because a crank "spins more" under no load then it's a "better" or "more efficient" bottom bracket. Don't fall for those Ceramic Speed "spin the pulley" marketing pieces at your LBS. Whether it spins "poorly" or "well" when spun by hand has nothing to do with how efficient the system performs under load.

If it spins poorly under no load, a load isn't going to improve things. The no load test is a usually a good measure actually, after a short break in period for the grease and seals.

If it spins *really* well under no load, then it probably has light grease and weak seals and will seize up after the first rain.
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Re: One more reason Cervelo's BBRight sucks [Pantelones] [ In reply to ]
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Pantelones wrote:
BBright press fit specs for the bottom bracket are pretty tight. Based on my industry (medical) experience I'd wager dollars to donuts most frames would fail QC. Note, dimensions in mm.
Based on my industry (hydropneumatic suspension) experience I'd say those tolerances are surprisingly wide, considering alignment is key.

Actually, that might be the problem: BB shell made within tolerance still causes binding/friction in a stiff, interference fit, 30mm crank design.
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Re: One more reason Cervelo's BBRight sucks [James Haycraft] [ In reply to ]
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James Haycraft wrote:
PoorLBSEmployee wrote:
Cervelos are the least put together bikes of any brand that my shop sells. It's about 1.5 hours to build a typical one (if you're decently quick, longer if it's hydro). Could do 2 tune-ups in that time pretty easily, missing out on $200 just building the dumb thing.

Santa Cruz and Focus are the same way. Oh waiiitttttt, look at that. All owned by PON.


They were like that prior to PON purchasing Cervelo. Nothing has changed with regard to the packing.

Also, if it takes you 1.5hrs to build a P2...

R5CA was direct fit. RCA is regular bbright.
RCA is direct fit btw.
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Re: One more reason Cervelo's BBRight sucks [Nicko] [ In reply to ]
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I would agree that the tolerances aren't that unreasonable if you are using a machining process to create the surfaces or using machining post molding. AFAIK the bottom bracket area for carbon bikes don't get a post mold machining. The molding process creates the dimensions with maybe only basic secondary finishing operations (hand sanding) to ensure spec.

Would be good to hear from anyone with specific knowledge on how the bottom bracket dimensions are formed and QC'd. I'd expect that at minimum a custom gauge set for diameter, concentricency between the bores.
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Re: One more reason Cervelo's BBRight sucks [jens] [ In reply to ]
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I've had great success with Enduro Torqtite on my p5 and recently just installed a wheels manufacturing threaded pf30 on my friend's Dimond. I got a bbinfinite waiting to be installed on my s5. Im hoping that's even better. Here's the wheels manufacturing pf30 bb that shipped with the dimond frame.


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Re: One more reason Cervelo's BBRight sucks [astig] [ In reply to ]
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Please report back on how that works out on the Dimond after putting some miles on it.
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Re: One more reason Cervelo's BBRight sucks [SummitAK] [ In reply to ]
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SummitAK wrote:
Please report back on how that works out on the Dimond after putting some miles on it.


Just wanted to add to this post that i have a P2 with PF30's that needs replacement, this is the second replacement in less than a year with less than 200 miles of outdoor riding. (I do 90% of my rides on the trainer).

The previous replacement was a Sram PF30 (I think factory P2's come with FSA BB's) but nonetheless I am reluctant to spend $150-22 for a bbinfinite or WM BB knowing that there is a chance my BB will crap out again. I may just sell the P2 and switch to another brand all together.
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Re: One more reason Cervelo's BBRight sucks [JTNY] [ In reply to ]
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If you like the bike, I would give the BBInfinite a shot. The support guy there is very good. He walked me through the steps to finally get mine working (it took some hand sanding of the inside of the BB shell to get a proper fit).

It still doesn't turn as well as my square-taper Campy or my Hawk Racing GXP, but it's better than the Wheels mfg one that astig shows a few posts above.

My latest book: "Out of the Melting Pot, Into the Fire" is on sale on Amazon and at other online and local booksellers
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Re: One more reason Cervelo's BBRight sucks [JTNY] [ In reply to ]
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JTNY wrote:
SummitAK wrote:
Please report back on how that works out on the Dimond after putting some miles on it.



Just wanted to add to this post that i have a P2 with PF30's that needs replacement, this is the second replacement in less than a year with less than 200 miles of outdoor riding. (I do 90% of my rides on the trainer).

The previous replacement was a Sram PF30 (I think factory P2's come with FSA BB's) but nonetheless I am reluctant to spend $150-22 for a bbinfinite or WM BB knowing that there is a chance my BB will crap out again. I may just sell the P2 and switch to another brand all together.


I would go through the driveside SRAM PF30 bearing on my S5 on average every 1-2 months of riding. After the 3rd one, I replaced it with this, (which is more like $75):
http://wheelsmfg.com/...-contact-bb-red.html

Never had a problem again with the BB in that for the next 2 years (averaging 4-5K miles/year), until the bike was stolen :-(

http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/
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Re: One more reason Cervelo's BBRight sucks [Tom A.] [ In reply to ]
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Tom A. wrote:
JTNY wrote:
SummitAK wrote:
Please report back on how that works out on the Dimond after putting some miles on it.



Just wanted to add to this post that i have a P2 with PF30's that needs replacement, this is the second replacement in less than a year with less than 200 miles of outdoor riding. (I do 90% of my rides on the trainer).

The previous replacement was a Sram PF30 (I think factory P2's come with FSA BB's) but nonetheless I am reluctant to spend $150-22 for a bbinfinite or WM BB knowing that there is a chance my BB will crap out again. I may just sell the P2 and switch to another brand all together.


I would go through the driveside SRAM PF30 bearing on my S5 on average every 1-2 months of riding. After the 3rd one, I replaced it with this, (which is more like $75):
http://wheelsmfg.com/...-contact-bb-red.html

Never had a problem again with the BB in that for the next 2 years (averaging 4-5K miles/year), until the bike was stolen :-(

If you were using an Ultegra crank - would you use the Wheels BBright for the 24mm shimano standard then?

Brent

DFRU - Detta Family Racing Unit...the kids like it and we all get out and after it...gotta keep the fam involved!
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Re: One more reason Cervelo's BBRight sucks [dfru] [ In reply to ]
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dfru wrote:
Tom A. wrote:
JTNY wrote:
SummitAK wrote:
Please report back on how that works out on the Dimond after putting some miles on it.



Just wanted to add to this post that i have a P2 with PF30's that needs replacement, this is the second replacement in less than a year with less than 200 miles of outdoor riding. (I do 90% of my rides on the trainer).

The previous replacement was a Sram PF30 (I think factory P2's come with FSA BB's) but nonetheless I am reluctant to spend $150-22 for a bbinfinite or WM BB knowing that there is a chance my BB will crap out again. I may just sell the P2 and switch to another brand all together.


I would go through the driveside SRAM PF30 bearing on my S5 on average every 1-2 months of riding. After the 3rd one, I replaced it with this, (which is more like $75):
http://wheelsmfg.com/...-contact-bb-red.html

Never had a problem again with the BB in that for the next 2 years (averaging 4-5K miles/year), until the bike was stolen :-(


If you were using an Ultegra crank - would you use the Wheels BBright for the 24mm shimano standard then?

Brent

Probably this: http://wheelsmfg.com/...no-cranks-black.html

http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/
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Re: One more reason Cervelo's BBRight sucks [Tom A.] [ In reply to ]
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Tom A. wrote:
dfru wrote:
Tom A. wrote:
JTNY wrote:
SummitAK wrote:
Please report back on how that works out on the Dimond after putting some miles on it.



Just wanted to add to this post that i have a P2 with PF30's that needs replacement, this is the second replacement in less than a year with less than 200 miles of outdoor riding. (I do 90% of my rides on the trainer).

The previous replacement was a Sram PF30 (I think factory P2's come with FSA BB's) but nonetheless I am reluctant to spend $150-22 for a bbinfinite or WM BB knowing that there is a chance my BB will crap out again. I may just sell the P2 and switch to another brand all together.


I would go through the driveside SRAM PF30 bearing on my S5 on average every 1-2 months of riding. After the 3rd one, I replaced it with this, (which is more like $75):
http://wheelsmfg.com/...-contact-bb-red.html

Never had a problem again with the BB in that for the next 2 years (averaging 4-5K miles/year), until the bike was stolen :-(


If you were using an Ultegra crank - would you use the Wheels BBright for the 24mm shimano standard then?

Brent


Probably this: http://wheelsmfg.com/...no-cranks-black.html

Cool - thanks!

Brent

DFRU - Detta Family Racing Unit...the kids like it and we all get out and after it...gotta keep the fam involved!
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Re: One more reason Cervelo's BBRight sucks [lyrrad] [ In reply to ]
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lyrrad wrote:
And out of my 5 bikes the only BB's that have been replaced in 4 years is a threaded one.
And that failure was a indication of bearing price and quality not the system.
SRAM GXP, fine, Shimano road, Fine, Shimano MTB, fine, square taper threaded, fine, Cheap Tiagra threaded, one proper wet ride and it was screwed.
I have never had a single problem with press fit bearings if I installed them myself from new, on either my personal bikes or in a shop situation.
The single biggest problem is pressing them both in at the same time promoting rocking that distorts the shell.
Second is not using a proper press adaptor and just pressing with a flat face that can apply force other than to the bearing outer casing.

Every single pressfit problem BB I have seen you can see the telltale angled marks in the shell of improper installation.
Or a frame washer was used when an axle washer should have been used and left only half the shell to support the bearing.

There is nothing wrong with pressfit, just hamfisted mechanics.


I hate PF BB's (and standard BB30) but I'm just a mechanical engineer with a home workshop :-) I have the Park Tool bearing press tool (glorified threaded rod and the stepped bearing holders and it seems to do the job. I note above that you ridicule pressing in both bearings at the same time. I press in one at a time, so it sounds like I'm doing it right.

To ensure I (and others do it right) would you mind describing, step by step, just what you do. (do you do PF BB30 any different than a normal BB30? I have both). Thanks

I now use Wheels Mfg screw together angular contact bearings and I love them. I don't recall ever seeing what torque they require, so I just snug them up and hope for the best. Is there anything special I should be doing with the Wheels MFG ones?

TriDork

"Happiness is a myth. All you can hope for is to get laid once in a while, drunk once in a while and to eat chocolate every day"
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