Not so much a reply to you, but to Garry.

Duffy's advice is spot on. I also "want to learn". Problem is, I only get to surf when on vacation. I go out every day, sometimes twice, when I can, but, then it's 5-10 months before my next shot at it. Last time I was in Tofino, I got in the water something like 8 times over 5 days. I successfully caught (meaning actually managed to time my position, paddling, popping up, getting my feet in the right god damn spot, and not falling over or getting tossed for at least maybe 5 seconds) a handful of times over the week. There were many, many more attempts where I'd kind of get up, be just behind the wave, stand up but with my feet wrong and immediately nose dive, or something like that. It's hard to get a hang of, and I've got a very broad athletic back ground. It's very, very humbling.

That being said, it's insanely fun, I love being out there and can't wait to go again.

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Long Chile was a silly place.

Was surfing with a beginner friend (adult) and asked how I knew which waves to go for and which ones to let pass.

I told her that I've paddled for tens of thousands of waves at over a hundred different spots over the course of 35 years.

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Civilize the mind, but make savage the body.

- Chinese proverb

That being said, it's insanely fun, I love being out there and can't wait to go again. //

I have a few friends in the learning stage where you are and I tell them they are having more fun than me. 3ft sloppy wave is a thrill ride for you guys while I sit on shore, read the paper and have a cup of coffee. And nose diving is called pearling, at least try and hide your gromness..(-;

That's pretty much the gist I gathered from being out there and watching people who know what they're doing. You can't teach things like "feel" or experience, that's just something that comes with practice and patience, and surfing seems to be one of those things that is 99% feel and experience based.

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Long Chile was a silly place.

And fitness.

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Civilize the mind, but make savage the body.

- Chinese proverb

my nephews have bodyboarded with me for a week on vacation for the past couple of years. they still ask right or left when catching a wave.

Maybe I have more guts the brains, but when I usually go out and see an area with beginners playing in the wash by the shore and bigger waves further out, I always just head out in to the bigger stuff. I distinctly remember the first wave I attempted to catch. My eyes were probably wide as dinner plates when I had that 'oh shit' moment, feeling the wave rise up under me and toss me like a cork. It was still probably only 6 or so feet but in my mind it might as well been a big day at teahupoo or something. From that moment I was pretty much in love :).

As for my gromness regarding pearling, or nose diving, or whatever. I always get a kick out of things like surf and snowboard culture. What is it about being on the slopes or in the water that makes people suddenly develop this lingo and talk with this weird stoner slur. Ive played or dabbled in a lot of sports and always get a kick out of the various sport cultures, their style, lingo, and unwritten rules. Surfing and boarding tend to be pretty distinct in that regard, at least around here.

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Long Chile was a silly place.