That is correct to me.

Not a bike guru but in other sports, for most people (e.g skates, inlines etc) are setup from the factory a little toe out. So the foot is pointed 1/8" outward from the centerline, or heel in.
I had set up some skates incorrectly one winter, and the alignment issue showed up at my hip. Torqued my leg in the socket

Knee pain I found was more related to vertical angle or camber, requiring a shim to balance the sole of the shoe/skate.

Interesting to see if that is the same for cycling.

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If you get confused about cleat movements, try this:

Loosen the cleat. Put your shoe in your hand, palm up, grasping the cleat. While holding the cleat still, move the shoe to the desired position. Tighten it back up.

For me, I walk with my toes pointing a little outward. I point my cleats toward my big toes.

Makes sense.

Nice, this is simple, and it works.

even though I knew this my mind wasn't grasping it like a swivel. the cleat is clipped in always the same (obviously) and the shoe is swiveled, so to speak.

When you're all adjusted and pain-free, take a silver sharpie, paint pen, or something similar to mark the outline of the cleat on the sole. It will make replacements a bit less variable next time.

There is no one bit of advice here. Everyone is a bit different in terms of morphology, strength, flexibility etc . .

It is something of great importance - the whole shoe-cleat-pedal complex. For comfort, injury prevention, and, perhaps most importantly, don't forget this is where your fitness/power is transferred TO THE BIKE!

It's strange how many fuss over other aspects of bike fit, but never really focus in on this!

I was lucky, many years ago, I had the opportunity to get a cleat-fitting done by one of the best fitters in Canada at the time ( at the dawn of the clip-less era), and while my shoe-cleat-pedal complex has changed over the years, the basic fit, set up and positioning has stayed more or less the same.

I note that many professional cyclists, while they change teams and bike sponsors regularly, if they can ( based on contracts), stick with the shoe-cleat-pedal set-up that they like and works for them.

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Steve Fleck @stevefleck | Blog

that's what I did but must have marked it off just enough to cause issues. and these shoes are about finished anyway so I have new shoes coming soon. so will have to figure out position on new shoes.

+1

Fortunately, every bike fit I've had has included cleat positioning.

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I pretty much change cleats every season, so I bought one of these. Makes it easy to make sure everything is straight. They have them for all different types of cleats.


http://www.amazon.com/Ergon-TP1-Shimano-Cleat-Tool/dp/B0039TJYO2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1464718858&sr=8-4&keywords=bike+cleat+alignment

That Ergon TP1 Bicycle Pedal Cleat Tool looks interesting but a little confusing as well. Some of the reviews mention something about everything being centered around the metatarsal, is this tool more for changing cleats or more for setting up cleats? I already run a very mid-foot position but would like something that makes swapping out cleats easier but didn't know if it even supports a mid-foot cleat type position.

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It is for aligning cleats after you install the screws loosely. Just stick the cleat in the template, then slide around. I setup the shoe to line up to my big toe(marking on my shoes from the bike fit) and centered on the rear. You can adjust from there and write down your setup for future reference. I also ride the cleat more towards the back of the shoe, so less stress on the calves.

I have two pairs of cycling shoes...and I've found I like one pair better than the other because the cleat position is a tad closer to my toe. I tried adjusting the 2nd pair of shoes' cleats up as well, but there is no more adjustment forward on these shoes, sadly. Has anyone on this thread altered their cleats or shoe holes to get a better cleat position??? If so, how did you do it? I'm about to take a drill to my cleats so I can 'carve out' some more adjustment room in the screw holes.