I went with the MAS spider that allows you to fine tune the start of the oval ramp thinking that I'd try all these different settings to really tune it to the best one for me. 2.5 years later I've yet to even move them from the position they were installed at. When I feel things this minor are worthy I'll dig deeper but for now it's just a feature I've yet to take advantage of.
On my road bike I notice that when I get really forward on my saddle (like the very tip) when putting out maximum wattage (130-140% of FTP) I can notice it a lot more than during regular use. I'd argue that not too many people can tell the difference between the two but the outcome was noticeable (sore knees on round rings). On my TT bike there is this feeling of "coming over the top" but I also have different chain rings on each bike so it could be position or it could be the higher tooth count. My opinion on it is if you're going to always wonder if Q Rings are for you pull the trigger and get them. They aren't cheap but they are well made and have lasted many many thousands of KMs with minimal wear thus far.
As per the chain drops etc ... I was having chain drop issues when I was on mechanical shifting but it was a combination of a few things from what my mechanic tells me. My chain was super light KMC and the mechanical FD would throw it too far towards the inside ring and it would come off. Then we put in a chain catcher and it seemed to fix it for everything but load bearing shifts (going Small to Big on hills). Once I moved over to Di2 I didn't have another drop ever on my chain. I've also read that SRAM and Q Rings are particularly finicky to keep tuned due to the YAW FD in the SRAM system. I've seen it done but I've read it takes a lot of care and attention to shift flawlessly long term.
------
"Train so you have no regrets @ the finish line"