Low battery?

no. battery is one light. two lights flashing, is, as they say, not in the manual. (or so i think...)

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jjk
http://enduranceanimal.blogspot.com/

I could have sworn that meant low battery charge. This is from Competitive Cyclist website; When the light is green, it is fully charged. At 50% charge, it will start flashing green. At 25% charge, it will turn solid red. It will flash red when the battery is critically low.

Charge the battery and see if the flashing reds go away.

this makes sense and i will try it.
but right now when you test the charge it is solid green.
the flashing reds is both indicators, not one, and happens after a shift or else after you test the charge by pressing one of the shifters.

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jjk
http://enduranceanimal.blogspot.com/

Did they update the firmware after installation?
Anytime I build a bike,upgrade,or a bike comes in I plug in and check for updates.

Do you have 10sp Ultegra DI2, with E-Tube wiring, or the Dura Ace 10sp? Different animals and that might lead to different solutions.

100% remaining: Illuminates green (for 2 seconds)
50% remaining: Flashes green (5 times)
25% remaining: Illuminates red (for 2 seconds)
0% remaining: Flashes red (5 times)

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blog

dura ace 10 spd

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jjk
http://enduranceanimal.blogspot.com/

yes, but not both lights. only one.
this is a green solid for 2 s. and THEN TWO flashing red lights for the same.

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jjk
http://enduranceanimal.blogspot.com/

Reading through comments to the Shimano Di2 Everything you need to know blog post, sounds to me like possibly a derailleur is about to fail.

Quote:

this is what happens when the RD is about to fail completely. To verify that this is the case check for 3 things.

1. See if you can get it to do the fine adjustment bu pressing on the junction box button for ~4 seconds, it should show the red light solid, and allow you to adjust the RD position by the right lever buttons, if its not adjusting or flashes red when you try this, its the RD about to fail.
2. Also if the RD will not reset in crash mode, i.e. remove the rear wheel, hold down the junction box button until the RD starts to reset… moves through the full range and stops at the highest cog position than, if it will not do this than its also an indicator that its the RD about to fail.
3. If the bike was ridden in the rain, or was washed, and needs to dry out, in this case it should be ok, but could still be about to fail if enough moisture has gotten into the RD.

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¯\_(ツ)_/¯

is it the Dura Ace RD-7970? Mine did the same thing and then gave up the ghost all together... during a race of course. Shimano no longer supports the old generation systems. So you can either try and get one out of Japan, try and pick up a used one on e-Bay (good luck) or drop $2-3000 (assuming you want to stick with Di2) to upgrade to a whole new system. Local bike store should be able to hook it up to the diagnostic and confirm. Good luck.

good ideas thanks.

hopefully it is not the whole system.

the guy at the LBS called shimano and they didn't know what two flashing reds meant either.

ENCOURAGING NON?

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jjk
http://enduranceanimal.blogspot.com/

This happened to me this summer. PM me if you want details on the solution.

Unless there's something confidential about the solution I'm sure that others with Di2 would like to hear the details.

I don't suppose you still have the solution?

Thanks

Matt

Anybody know if there's a solution to this one? I did the 3 RD tests and on the very first one, it creaks and moves about 5 or 6 clicks worth. It's checked the box on "about to fail"

But I don't want to drop the money for a di2 upgrade and it's a pain to find 10 speeds

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