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Hi all,
I'm new to tri's and road bikes, having just built up a tri bike from chucksbikes after advice from here and TNO.
I'm just learning about tubulars, and trying to discover the advantages/disadvantages etc. Still not sure, as there's so many opinions around, I haven't seen a list of pro's cons specific to the tubular/clincher argument.
However, I found a site referenced in an earlier post that showed how to change/install a tubular and it was very specific about the need to allow the glue to cure after installation.
if this is the case, how are they changed during a race if you flat?
Any information you can suggest, or sites for a newbie to this subject would be much appreciated.
Cheers,
J.
Bunnyman posted something on this awhile back, but he might chime in here. He knows a lot about mechanical issues so if he says anything different than what I say below, well, he's the boss. :),
Here's what I do. I put my spare tubular tire on a clincher rim upside down. I then put some Tubasti or Conti glue on it, but not a lot. I let it dry. Then I fold the tire and stick it in my under the seat kit. If I flat, I simply install it on the rim (note that it is often very hot and the glue is usually a little tacky, which helps a bit). I then pump the tire up very hard-usually well over 120 psi. After about 10-15 minutes of riding I stop and check the tire and make sure it is well seated. I don't scream around corners like I'm doing the NY criterium either. Take it easy on the downhills and curves and you'll make it home. Even if the tire doesn't work out you can make it home by riding on the flat tubie and shifting your weight fore or aft depending on which tire is bad. If it's the front tire you should only lose 3-4 mph. A rear tire blowout requires more care but you can make it if it's only a few miles.
Good luck!
-Robert
"How wonderful it is that nobody need wait a single moment before starting to improve the world." ~Anne Frank
I have nothing to add. You are a very good student, Mr. Robert.
Doesn't the tire stick to itself when you fold it up? (glue side to glue side) Maybe I'm missing something.
jaretj
You preglue the tire, and that glue is good enough to install it onto the rim during the race.
If so, how much less secure is it than the palaver you have to go through putting on a tube in the regular way (sanding the rim, letting glue dry, etc? How easy is it to get the old tire off if it's securely glued on?
Is the advantage of a tubular mainly that it's lighter? Are they less prone to flats? Is there lower rolling resistance?
Looking for some guidance. If you search for tubular on here, there are so many pages of results it takes many hours to go through and lots aren't relevent to the questions I'm asking.
Perhaps given that this topic seems to come up a lot, there coudld be an introduction somewhere on the site to the pros and cons so that new people like me wouldn't have to annoy the long time members with questions.
Cheers,
J.
Yes, the tire sticks a bit and you have to yank to pull it apart before you mount it. No big deal.
An installed spare tubular is not as safe as a properly glued tubular, and that is why you take it a bit easy at first to make sure it's not going to roll off on you. But, if you are careful you shouldn't lose much time with the spare.
Tubies are about 2-3 times faster to install in a race than clinchers. Furthermore, lots of guys will pinch flat their clincher tubes when installing them during the race because they are doing it quickly. It's one of THE most aggravating things about clinchers.
At GFT two years ago I passed a guy who had flatted and was getting his gear out to fix it. Clincher gear. As I passed him I said: "bummer" and then I heard that unmistakeable "hiss". I had flatted not 25 yards from him. I hopped off my bike, took off the wheel, ripped off the dead tubie, installed the new tubie, CO2 it, and was off before the other guy got the old clincher tube off the rim. And I had to fiddle with a CO2 dispenser that had a piece of wood stuck in it somehow. Took me an extra 30 secs or so to figure that one out.
Also, if you are one mile out on a clincher flat you can't ride in with it, but with a tubie you can.
Lots of people race on clinchers, but I would never do so.
I like the feel of tubies a little better than clinchers but the clinchers have closed the gap considerably in that regard. They (tubies) weigh less so you have less rotating weight on the outside of the wheel, which is a modest plus, particularly when climbing. But tubies are much more expensive. If you want the best equipment and a faster bike split, tubies are the ticket, IMHO.
-Robert
"How wonderful it is that nobody need wait a single moment before starting to improve the world." ~Anne Frank
Last edited by:
Robert: Sep 8, 03 9:34
That pretty much comfirms what I've been getting from reading the different posts, but in a very concise way.
I think that if I get a set of race wheels next year, then I'll go tubular, but for current wheels, which will be my training wheels I'll stay on clinchers.
Now I just have to figure out if my bike upgrade in a couple of years will be on 640 or 700 wheels so that I can buy wheels to match and not have to sell them on.
Cheers,
J.
Robert & bunnyman:
So does this mean you stretch your tubulars by mounting them upside down on a clincher rim? Or is that just for glueing?
I'm going tubular for next year and still trying to figure out the tubular ways. Please help.
put the mettle to the pedal
Yes, that's what I do.
-Robert
"How wonderful it is that nobody need wait a single moment before starting to improve the world." ~Anne Frank