1. It is included.

2. Yes, standard sizes.

1. Front is detachable, rear is not.
2. 4mm shift/5mm brake.
3. Not really but I did build with Omega X to play it safe.

A couple more questions. What did you use to fish the cables out of the guides under the bottom bracket? I am having an impossible time pulling them thru. Also is there a special tool needed to get the bottom bracket cups in? Or can i just mallet them in after putting some loctite on them?

Thanks!

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Next races on the schedule: none at the moment

park sell some fishing devices or else just patience and a bent old spoke

I would not recommend a mallet to install any bb. a press of some kind is your friend, there are several varieties or you can make one from a threaded rod and washers yourself

I really like this inexpensive press

UNIVERSAL BOTTOM BRACKET PRESS
http://wheelsmfg.com/...m-bracket-press.html

For doing work at home it's been great.

Thanks for the recommendation. Do you use something like LocTite to sit the bottom bracket cups?

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Next races on the schedule: none at the moment

No, I just pressed the cups in, that fit really tight on my P2. It would make it really difficult to remove them. If I were to use anything it would be the green gap-filling loctite.

BB's I have pressed in are:

The original one for the P2 with the plastic cups
Rotor 4630
Wheels manfacturing PF30-BB

How did you like the wheels bb for the NP2?

Brent

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DFRU - Detta Family Racing Unit...the kids like it and we all get out and after it...gotta keep the fam involved!

I have not put significant miles on it to form an opinion but; it went together nicely and is pretty smooth.

It's in a NP2 with a P2Max Rotor crank.

One more question. Do you run the cable housing all the way down to the plastic guide piece by the BB or do you only run them to the insertion holes in the top tube?

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Next races on the schedule: none at the moment

Try inserting some cable housing and see what happens.

For fishing, try a tiny, tiny piece of cotton wool tied to the end of a piece of sewing thread. Stuff the cotton wool in the hole at the top and use your vacuum cleaner to suck from the hole you want it to come out of (plug all other holes with tape temporarily). Use the crevice tool on your vacuum and a milk shake straw taped to it, so you get most of the suck coming through the straw and you're good to go. Then tape or temporarily super glue the thread to the cable and gently pull it through.

As for the mallet, NO!
Use a bearing press. Park Tool make one, but you can make a pretty reasonable copy with threaded rod and washers. I use the park tool one as it has some stepped shims that mean you get them lined up properly, making installing the crank, a whole lot easier. Given that you will be replacing the *$%^ bearings pretty regularly (who came up with the press fit bearing idea deserves to die a slow and painful death), you might as well invest in the Park Tool one and be done with it. At the same time, buy the right Park Tool BB bearing removal tool as well. No use trashing a P3 just because you saved a few $$ not buying the right tool.

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TriDork

"Happiness is a myth. All you can hope for is to get laid once in a while, drunk once in a while and to eat chocolate every day"

A flashlight and a bent paper clip works well for me. ...that, and lots of patients.

This is the tool you want for the BB. http://wheelsmfg.com/...m-bracket-press.html

Alternatively, do a search on home made headset press to see some cheap ways to get the BB pressed in.

At least on the 2014 NP3, it's a cinch to cable it. There's a "plate" on the bottom of the frame, below the BB. There is one tiny screw. Unscrew that, then pry off the "plate" leveraging it off from the screw hole. The housing drops down easily enough and you can use your fingers or tweezers to pull it through the square hole in the bottom of the frame.

While you're building the frame, you might want to look at at a Wheels Manufacturing bottom bracket--one that screws together in the middle.

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No coasting in running and no crying in baseball

So do you run housing all the way down to that plastic plate by the bottom bracket? Thats what i am thinking, but i wonder if itd make the cable housing rattle along the down tube?

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Next races on the schedule: none at the moment

Yes, you run the housing all the way to the plastic plate. The plate is shaped to act as a stop for the housing. I also added a piece of liner tubing around the inner cable where it exits the plastic plate. I'll try and get some pics up tonight so you can see. The way I set it up makes it less difficult to re-cable.

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No coasting in running and no crying in baseball

Very cool. Much appreciated. It makes sense because it is tons easier to fish out housing from under the bottom bracket as opposed to the cables.

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Next races on the schedule: none at the moment