Not familiar with the SC and its hidden levers but rather than bringing another bike how about another wheel just for the trainer? This would have its own QR.

Rollers or DD turbo.

You need this:
http://www.minoura.jp/...ridroller/fg540.html


Or regular rollers.

I would be curious the aero cost of using your trainer skewer in the TT... I get wanting to be as aero as possible in a TT however.

I wonder what most people do. I imagine the issue you describe is not specific to the trek SC. Don't most people warm up on a trainer? I imagine most are just changing their skewers after their warm up.

trainers eat tires, why prematurely ruin your race tire using it on a trainer? Use trainer wheel, ride on road or use something like a kickr plugged into your car :)

Is this true? I am curious if anyone has put data behind this. I decided this year to just train and race on the same tires to avoid failure risk driven by environment changes prior to a race. I cannot see any material wear differences on my rear tire as a result of its full-time trainer use. I am using Continental 4000s II tires.

This.

I watched a team mate literally shred the rubber of an an expensive track racing time while warming up on a turbo at the track one day. Bring a different wheel.

---

Kevin

http://kevinmetcalfe.dreamhosters.com
My Strava

yes

So, enlighten us with data. My N of 1 counters the other N of 1 above. I have thousands of trainer miles on my tire with no discernible wear. If there are objective data, please point us to it. Otherwise we can only assume they do not exist.

there you go then YMMV

Before switching to a direct drive trainer, I used to have to vacuum the rubber particles from tire wear behind my trainer.

A big part of it depends on how much power you are putting out. If you ride at 150 watts for long durations, you won't see much tire wear. If you do intervals at 300, 400, 800+ watts ... you will shred tires.

I ride a Kinetic Road Machine trainer at around 230W - 260W with most intervals in the 330W - 350W range. I have no signs of tire shavings anywhere on the floor, and I would definitely see them. I wonder if the model of the trainer and its friction wheel is the difference. Or if it could be from others over-tightening the friction against the tire.

My Continental tires have those tread depth holes, and they look identical, front and rear.

I squared off a bontrager r4 tire after only two rides. The same with a set of Michelin Pro4 Service Course. The contact patch basically squares off and loses any resemblance of a tread. I wouldn't really trust it riding outdoors. I learned my lesson. I went and got the cheapest tire my shop had (a $14 michelin something) and I use that on the trainer. After over 2000km it shows basically no signs of wear. Same PSI (usually around 100-110 on the trainer) and same amount of pressure on the roller. I know of other people that use the same tires all the time on the trainer and road without issue, it's definitely a "Your mileage may vary" situation. To be safe I just picked up a really cheap training wheel that I use exclusively on the trainer. wheel and tire cost me less than $50 and I just used an old cassette I had.

I ride rollers pretty regularly that are alloy drums. My tires turn silver pretty quickly telling me I'm picking up a large amount of alloy slivers from the drums. I don't think I would want to do this to my race tires.