I'm upgrading my mountain bike to an M8000 drive train.

No. Shimano XT cassette sucks and it's a boat anchor. I just put Sram XO1 with XT cassette on my bike and hated it. The issue is the Sram is now all XD Drive and Shimano XTR cassette gearing wasn't ideal for me. So I opted to go 1x10 with 42T extended cog with 32T upfront. I use SRAM 1080 cassette which requires removing the 14T cog to make room for 42T. Problem is 12T to 16T jump. Shifting sucked. So I took a 13T off my SRAM 1050 cassette. Now it shifts like a dream. With the 32T upfront I rarely use the 42T. I also loss a pound off my bike.

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The curious task of economics is to demonstrate to men how little they really know about what they imagine they can design.

You don't think I'm that bad, do you? :p Washed with regular detergent on cold cycle. After a while clothes go rank as soon as they get wet. Half way into a run after washing and it all stinks so bad it's embarrassing. I think the fabric begins to swim in bacteria and only bleach can help at that point, but as you said that brings its own problems.

M8000 is 11 speed

XO1 cassette you referenced is 10 speed and nearly $300

Also have to use a different freehub with SRAM 11 speed and not my 2 year old 10 speed wheel

XO1 cassette is 11-speed. XO is 10 speed. I did reference the XD drive freehub in my reply. It's why I opted to go with XT because I don't feel like dropping another $80 just to change freehub. It annoys me that they don't offer a regular cassette and it annoys me that they think mountain bikers want a 10t cog on their cassettes. But you can upgrade older wheels to XD freehub.

The 1080 Cassettee is the 10-speed I use now with a 42T one-up extended cog. The only difference between my 1x10 and the 1x11 is that I don't have a 10T cog (SRAM) or a 36T cog.

SRAM cassettes are getting expensive. My 1080 has many miles on it and I cringe at the thought of buying another one, but I may buy one before they change that to the XD freehub as well.

It cost me about $200 to do the 42T extender only because I had to buy a clutch RDR. Most bikes have those now, which could save you $140.

I did this upgrade because I just wanted something different on my MTB. Now staring at Tri bike.

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The curious task of economics is to demonstrate to men how little they really know about what they imagine they can design.

You can justify this as the move from mechanical shifting to electronic is well worth it on a tri bike. Shift levers in two positions, plus the rapid shifting off the aerobarsmwill make you happy.

I'm with you on the fatigue, but as others have mentioned, if the bike is super comfortable stick with it. I fondly think back on my Scott plasma 20 from 2009. That bike just felt right but alas after a collision with a car, I upgraded and have since tried two more bikes.

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http://www.abbeybiketools.com

Huh?

If your going to do a SRAM setup, do it as intended.

Just go XT man. The groupo works great. I have some bikes XT and one full XTR. They all ride great.

I didn't like working on the bike. Brakes worked poorly in my opinion and adjusting brakes when swapping wheels and or brake pads was ridiculous as well as front end setup with cables. I wanted regular style brakes and stem and bought a P2 to keep it simple.

No. Riding the bike is about the ride not the bike. If I get bored I usually try riding someplace different or with someone different, not changing my bike.

I'm annoyed people think what others want it annoying.

A) SRAM now makes an 11-42 cassette for regular freehubs too, but
B) Shimano's is lighter, and
C) Shimano now makes an 11-46, which is nearly the same range as SRAM's 10-42 spread

Racers usually want that range. If I were clunking around on a fatbike or if I had a trail bike for "just fun" rides, I'd be fine with a 1x11-36 10sp setup and a front ring low enough to keep me climbing up the steep sections. I'd be fine with freewheeling on long descents.

But if I'm racing an XCM race, I need the low gear to grind up a steep, long mountain and the top-end to keep up with a fast-moving pack. As a strong climber, I can get up basically everything with a 34t front and 42t back, while gravel-road packs of 40+km/h aren't a problem. SRAM's new Eagle with a 36t or 38t front would be even sweeter.

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ZONE3 - We Last Longer

The 1130 cassette is 11-42 and is regular freehub but like you said it's heavy. That's why I opted for the XT cassettee, but damn. MTBR is loaded with threads on XT shifting issues, but I just chalked it up to poor drivetrain adjustments. Nope. I couldn't get that damn thing to be quiet or shift smoothly. I think Shimano really dropped the ball on XT. With SRAM moving to XD driver, the majority of people have Shimano hubs. They had an opportunity for XT, but they just made it too heavy.

I do about 7-10 mountain bike races a year, but I also live in MI where extended climbing is not an issue. Still have steep XC courses, but not compared to the races I've done in Utah or Colorado where the hill never ends.

In my 20 years of mountain bike racing never have I wished for a 10T. I think it's a mistake for SRAM to put it on every mountain cassette. But again, I have Michigan mentality.

I'm not knocking 11 speed at all. I'd love an 11-46 with a 34T front. But switching 10sp drivetrain to 11sp for a 11-42 only makes sense if your drivetrain is so obsolete and worn out. I was running XO 10sp so me moving to XO1 had no tangible benefit given the cost. Adding the 42T extended cog was half the price and I dropped twice the weight off my bike. It works for the courses I race on.

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The curious task of economics is to demonstrate to men how little they really know about what they imagine they can design.

Well, as I said - 10-42 is the same as 11-46 in terms of ratios, so if you'd like an 11-46x34 you'd enjoy a 10-42x32 too.

Chances are that these days, with thru-axles, Boost spacing etc - that you'd anyway have to buy new hubs or wheels if you were upgrading, and most hubs are XD-convertible. Personally, like you I don't see a point to upgrading the drivetrain on an existing bike - I stuck with my old plain 3x9 MTB until I had a chance to buy a 1x11 full-susser for a steal, and my next drivetrain upgrade will probably be a few years down the line with a new complete bike. Same with my triathlon bike (recently got an 11sp complete bike) and road (still 10sp).

It anyway looks like the MTB and Tri offerings are moving towards a "car-industry" model where you buy a complete product with proprietary parts, and don't expect a rival company's parts to fit.

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ZONE3 - We Last Longer

Would you have a recommendation for a good, decent priced, carbon seatpost? 31.6mm and I'm fairly light

Seatpost on my bike now is about 450 grams. Thinking I could save 200 grams (nearly half a pound)

I always buy used and buy / sell within 10% -/+. I view it as renting vs. buying and change whenever I want.

Thomson Masterpiece.

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The curious task of economics is to demonstrate to men how little they really know about what they imagine they can design.

I noticed a few of the 2017 bike models are moving away from PF and back to threaded. That would be glorious.

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The curious task of economics is to demonstrate to men how little they really know about what they imagine they can design.

It has been said ( I'm sure) that it is more economical to upgrade your equipment than upgrade your spouse. And probably more predictable. Is that what you were asking?

Thanks

 

"I noticed a few of the 2017 bike models are moving away from PF and back to threaded. That would be glorious."



Indeed!

Especially if they standardize on few different types. One of the things holding me back from upgrading is compatibility, whether it be 10 vs 11 speed wheels, my powermeter, etc.

I ride a 2008 P3C and would kind of like to upgrade it, but don't to have to upgrade a bunch of race wheels and other parts as well.

My Trek BB95 MTB is creaking with joy! I swear my next MTB is going to be a metal-framed, treaded-BB hardtail.

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ZONE3 - We Last Longer

Always, sometimes and never. I'm always interested in refinement and there is always the shiny new toy that catches my eye. Then sensibility kicks in. In the real world is there a really a performance difference? Electronic shifting is nice but will not make you faster. Then in the case of my 2008 Lynskey R320, it's bike over 9 years later I'm still very excited to ride every day. But those road aero frames are nice new shiny toys.