I have lots of experience with everything you're describing. Was a mechanic at a shop for three years and still do all my own work.

Just replaced the rotor BBs on my P5 and R5 with the Wheels MFG screw fit BB. probably the easiest installation of a BB out there - and I have done many, many, many.

If you still cant get the BB out, take it to a shop - save you a headache, and maybe cost you $5-$10 if they are reasonable humans (free if they are feeling bad you've taken so long).

There is another tool (http://www.parktool.com/...;%20Bottom%20Bracket )

Simple. most shops would have it (probably not to sell). this will get it out for sure.

the installation of the wheels mfg requires one of the BBT cups, can't remember the size (most shops have them in mechanic chest).

Highly recommend them. super quick and easy to install or remove.

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But, he said I was an Ironman.

kwolo, thanks for that.

I'm a mechanical engineer and I've been doing all my own bike maintenance for about 25 years so far. I have a separate bike shed for my 12 bikes with a reasonable workshop and far too many bike tools for my wife's liking :-) I once spent 45 minutes per side, with an air impact gun, getting a threaded sealed BB out of an old steel bike. I will get this BB out myself, if it kills me!
I have the park tool removal tool and that worked for the non-drive side without toooooo much drama. (Well, 20 minutes to get it out, but the second side (drive side) is just insane. It will get the hack saw treatment, then a Wheels Mfg threaded BB will go in (thanks to ST recommendations).

Thanks for your advice and recommend

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TriDork

"Happiness is a myth. All you can hope for is to get laid once in a while, drunk once in a while and to eat chocolate every day"

I have seen you're posts before - figured you knew what you're doing - but if you wanted a quick fix, figured I would make the suggestion.

Pride may kill us, but worth it in the end. Bets of luck.

and yes, the Wheels MFG BB is great.

Cheers!

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But, he said I was an Ironman.

Sorry I gave the impression I have a clue about anything at all :-)

I'm just fakin' it till I make it.

But seriously, I used to like working on cars, until cars started being built by people with smaller hands than I've got. Apparently they have an extra elbow as well :-)

Now I enjoy (most of the time) working on bikes. Nuthin better than riding down the road on a well maintained bike you didn't have to pay shop prices to get going.

The insanity in this case is that my good friend is a bike store owner. It gets worse. His shop is about 200 metres from my office. But wait, he's offered to get the bearing out for me, for free. And STILL, I want to get it out myself. I am my own worst enemy

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TriDork

"Happiness is a myth. All you can hope for is to get laid once in a while, drunk once in a while and to eat chocolate every day"

Hahaha. Now you're just too far gone.

You must get it out - think of all the time wasted if you don't ;)

I live a few blocks from my old shop - so any tool I don't have is located there :)

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But, he said I was an Ironman.

While my bike is off the road thanks to the bearing, I have many other bikes to ride so no biggie.

and, time spent in my bike shed is time I'm not mowing the lawns or whatever. That's a win in my book. LOL

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TriDork

"Happiness is a myth. All you can hope for is to get laid once in a while, drunk once in a while and to eat chocolate every day"

Have you been able to use the Enduro tool for removing PF30 cups from a frame? I understand how it is used to pull the bearings from the PF shell, but haven't worked out how to use it to pull the PF shells from a frame.

WM uses Enduro bearings. These are typically available from any larger bearing shop using the sealed bearing part number. Several upgrades are available in their line for the 6806 30x42x7 sealed bearings used in PF30 BB's. Catalog links here: ABEC3, ABEC5/Angular Contact and Ceramic/Angular Contact.

The availability exception may be the bearing cyclenutz mentions above which is used for the SRAM GXP BB NDS. It is a 22x37x8 sealed bearing with an extended inner race for engaging the stepped down GXP crank spindle. This bearing may not be something a bearing shop has on hand as it could be primarily (only?) used for the SRAM BB's.

Kwolo - the Park BBT 90.3 will NOT work for a PF30 bearing/cup removal. It is too small and will simply fall through the bearing. I suppose you could bend it out to splay wide enough but that would ruin the precision of the tool as far as I'm concerned. The Park Tool RT-1 Head Cup remover (which looks very similar but is larger) will do the job.

I may have linked the wrong one. But the one that is wider should do. I did it from my phone while at work, haha.

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But, he said I was an Ironman.

[rant]So, to recap: we've taken the threaded design that's been around for over 100 years, was inexpensive, standards-based, lasted for years, could be installed and replaced in minutes using cheap tools, was almost always completely quiet and replaced it with a disaster of a design that's the exact opposite of all of that. Take a look at the (frankly) INSANE process documented above then compare it to replacing a Hollowtech II BB, something a trained monkey could do. Hear endless, infuriating clicking / ticking on a group ride? 95%+ of the time, it's a GD press fit BB. The scourge of cycling, worse than EPO.

Press fit bottom brackets are the single worst idea for gear in cycling history because they're so pervasive, so unnecessary and so problem prone. It actually makes me angry: so many excellent bikes these days have this fatal flaw at their heart: a press fit BB. I will not buy a bike with a press fit BB, ever. It's a quasi-religious pursuit for me.

What's it going to take for manufacturers to give up on this stupid, pointless, irritating, unreliable, costly and impossible to work on crap and Go. Back. To. Threaded? I don't think you'll find a single mechanic who defends any press fit standard. We, as buyers of bikes, have to vote with our feet. The problem is too few people think about it when they buy a bike. Once they have their first problem (usually within a year), people tend to learn about BBs quickly. Save yourself, boycott press fit.[/rant]

i'd want to put my Hawk bearings in there

Thanks for your post, very helpful...basically your mistakes or mis-adventures are way more helpful than other instructions etc.

Quick question...no noise? Second question, is wheels mfg the solution to the noise? Third question, this (noise in BB after 3 months or so) appears to be a pretty standard situation across all brands, IE not Cervelo specific?

Thanks for posting, some variation of this should be a front pager.

Cheers,
Maurice

1. No noise yet. I've ridden about 500 miles, including pouring rain.
2. Can't properly answer this one, since I never rode the original Rotor PF30 BB. I believe that it can be a solution to some noise problems as it constrains possible movement and eliminates the need for adapters.
3. PF noise is definitely not Cervelo specific.

One point of uncertainty I have with the Wheels Mfg. solution is tightening torque. Wheels Mfg. calls for 35-50 Nm. First, that can't properly be set with the Park Tool BBT-29, which was $17. It can be set with the $50 FSA MegaEvo socket, which I didn't purchase. Second, and more importantly, I worry about the amount of force on the carbon frame applied by this fastening method. It's quite possible that nobody knows how tight these can be made before causing some level of damage. I'm certainly not volunteering to do that destructive testing :)

damen

I believe The Raceface wrench has a 3/8" socket hole for using a torque wrench. I used the Abbey Tools aluminum socket. Getting the BB torqued to spec while holding the socket on tight is a little challenging. I also chickened out at about 45N-m with the same carbon worries:(