The stock P2 cockpit is horrible. Get a good cockpit with better cable routing and aerodynamics.

TriRig Omega X brakes

---

Make Inside Out Sports your next online tri shop! http://www.insideoutsports.com/

Any suggestions?

There are tons of options out there. The Tririg Alpha X is on sale now, and it is an incredible value for the level of performance.

Tri rig alpha x is beautiful but wow it is expensive.

Id ask do you have a power meter yet? Id say work on your engine before worrying about the cockpit and training to power is a good way to monitor that. Also a decent bike fit.

Having said that if all you want is advice for what to get then yeh the cockpit is a good place to start

Zipp Vuka Aero with the Evo 70 extensions

---

Make Inside Out Sports your next online tri shop! http://www.insideoutsports.com/

ri rig alpha x is beautiful but wow it is expensive.

Id ask do you have a power meter yet? Id say work on your engine before worrying about the cockpit and training to power is a good way to monitor that. Also a decent bike fit.

Having said that if all you want is advice for what to get then yeh the cockpit is a good place to start


I have a kickr snap trainer, so yes to a degree I train with power when riding on the trainer

It's relative, but at $750, the Alpha X is a good value. Carbon bars are around $1K. Aluminum bars are around $300, but they often come bare, so you often end up spending a little more for pads and extension clamps. And, aluminum bars are slower than carbon bars, so the savings comes with a performance cost. For $750, cheaper than most other carbon bars, you get one of, if not the, fastest bars at any price.

From a bike performance, a good cockpit will probably have the biggest impact.

I have a non-Di2 P2. I just did a bunch of upgrades that I'm really really liking:

- Ultegra Di2
- TriRig Alpha X bars
- TriRib Omega X break
- ISM PN 1.0 saddle

and just about to buy an Assioma Duo power meter and a Hed Jet Plus 6 front wheel and Hed Jet Plus Disc (I have a set of Enve Classics 4.5/6.5 right now that are nice but I think I can do better with Hed)

Have fun!

My wife has the exact same bike. I added Di2 shifters to the base bars, which she really likes.

Or he could get a 3T Vola team (carbon) for 400$. Has all the adjustability of a Tririg, won't be much slower and is a lot cheaper.

That is the bar that comes on the P3 I think.

I did not know the 3T Vola Team was so cheap. It may be tough to find one for $400, but even at $550, it is a good value.

Yes, the Vola Team Stealth is the cockpit on the P3, and it is a massive upgrade over the P2's cockpit.

I got a Vision carbon base bar that cleans up the brake cables a tun. Also that are straight vs bullhorn like the stock base bars.

There is a thread somewhere that shows P2 upgrades. Other obvious ones are wheels and a crank based power meter.

It's a lot slower.

You’d be better off with a felt bayonet alloy. The bayonet is only 12 secs slower over 40k then the tririg and is 1/4 of the price. It also has amazing adjustability.

That does indeed look like a great aerobar setup for a reasonable price. I am currently running no-name chinese carbon basebar+aerobars that have worked fine for me and were total $160 and look great, but if I could have bought an alloy Bayonet for $300 back when I was upgrading I def would have gone this route instead.

Yes we know already, everything in your microwatt world is terrible slow, a lot slower etc. Why don't you start being really helpful to people?

Tririg Omega X brakes and get brake cabling done so that rear brake cable is not sticking out in the wind
And powermeter, if You have rotor crancks power2max NGeco is one good option for the money

Pointing out that a cheaper option is slower than the more expensive is helpful. It allows the OP to decide whether the $ to W savings is worth it to them.

Well he's still missing part of your equation isn't he? How could he know if something is worth it if he doesn't know the difference. And yes, I know you can find a (rather narrow) range with some Googling.

I'm not at liberty to give specifics, but it would be worth it to me. The Bayonet as suggested is a better budget option and Tulas are top if you can live with the quirks.

For the p2, the no brainer upgrade is a used or new (if you can find it) Aduro bar. it bring the bike from entry level to super bike hiding all the cable and making it a good aero upgrade and a major aesthetic upgrade also


The p2 with about 700$ of investement (bar and brake) can get you with in 1-2 watts of the P5 and faster than mostly any superbike on the market.

i purchased a P2 105. putting a p5 fork, aduro bar, magura brake and fairing... and end up with a relatively ''cheap'' superbike.

---

Jonathan Caron / Professional Coach / ironman champions / age group world champions
Jonnyo Coaching
Instargram

Only if the P5 you are comparing to is 1 size larger and both bikes have about $8K of other upgrades. You are probably thinking of that flawed Tririg experiment. Due to all of their protocol irregularities, it is hard to know if the P5's larger frame size is the reason for the performance similarities or if the Auduro bar on the P5 is the reason for performance similarities. The P3, which already has a decent cockpit, is much further from a P5 than 1-2 watts. It is more in line with a Shiv, which is distant from a P5. It is hard to imagine a universe in which a P2 cockpit and brake upgrade alone can leapfrog the P3 and every other bike on the market to outperform a P5.

I basing my comment on cervelo publish data and some internal numbers.

P5-6 vs P5-3 is 1 watts

P5-3 is essentially the same as p3 or p2 frameset as long as each bike as same major components (bar, brakes mostly). There are small differences in the frameset of the p5 but those differences are at the back of the bike and we are talking 1 or 2 watts.

that how good the p2-3 frameset is. The group, crank, saddle you put on the bike have very little impact on performance.

So, once you treated your P2 to the ''p5 components treatement (fork, fairing, beard, magura, adruo bar) you will be ahead of a shiv, Felt IA, Speed concept for anything from 0 to +/- 7 degres yaw.... and might get caugh up by the speed concept at higher yaw but you essentially are riding a super bike for a very affordable price.

so, 2000$ for a 2017 closout p2, 200 for a p5-6 fork, 400$ for aduro, 150$ magura brake 75$ of fairing, beard etc

2825$...... for perhaps a 3 watts deficit on p5-6.

---

Jonathan Caron / Professional Coach / ironman champions / age group world champions
Jonnyo Coaching
Instargram

been looking off and on for the fairing for 2 years, have a p3 with the magura center pull hydraulic brakes and have not been able to find the fairing. any advice on where it is available.

Thanks,
GS

it s relatively easy. any cervelo dealer could order it for you.

or simply search online and you can by them today for 15$ a peice

https://www.excelsports.com/...major=11&minor=2

---

Jonathan Caron / Professional Coach / ironman champions / age group world champions
Jonnyo Coaching
Instargram

THX!

Been googling magura brake fairing without success and looking online in all the wrong places.

Best,
GS

Does that just clip on to the magura brake?
Could you use it without the aduro?

yes and yes

---

Jonathan Caron / Professional Coach / ironman champions / age group world champions
Jonnyo Coaching
Instargram

Anyone got pics of upgraded cockpit on a P2 as some have mention in this thread. Zipp, vision, Tri rig alpha x, others.

Alpha X



Ventus

How'd you get the rear brake cable routed that way? It's the only thing I don't like about the P2.

---

Swimming Workout of the Day:

Favourite Swim Sets:

2020 National Masters Champion - M50-54 - 50m Butterfly

There were some postings on here on how to do it; I printed those out and brought them to my LBS and had them get to work; since I have Maguras, I wasn’t concerned about about the internal turns of the wires as others expressed with traditional brakes

happy to take more pics with different angles but this is what I have on hand

DFW_Tri wrote:

There were some postings on here on how to do it; I printed those out and brought them to my LBS and had them get to work; since I have Maguras, I wasn’t concerned about about the internal turns of the wires as others expressed with traditional brakes

ok found it. doesn't look too hard, maybe I will end up with another Cervelo after all.

http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...so=ASC;mh=25;page=-1

---

Swimming Workout of the Day:

Favourite Swim Sets:

2020 National Masters Champion - M50-54 - 50m Butterfly

I just did it with my P2. Really easy for those who feel comforatble working on their bike. No need to go to a shop.

The top tube cable port already has three holes (2 gear, 1 brake). That port/cavity (whatever it's called in the top tube) actually pops out without much effort and makes cable routing easier. It really not that hard to run the brake cable to the top tube (removing the fork first also give you easy access to the inside of the frame to help guide the cable).

+1
Agree with this. If you are comfortable working on your bike it is not hard. I did mine with standard mechanical brakes and it was pretty straightforward. Leave a nice big 'U' in the cable or loop it. 3 cable ports. Ran housing all the way. Plenty of room.

It looks like you have some experience working on Magura RT6 brakes.

...have you ever tried to install the magura HS/RT hydraulic tubing to the barbed end fitting on the brake lever?
(here's a video of Magura doing it: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...brakes/rp-prod128877)

I've tried myself and find it to be very difficult. Nowhere near as easy as the video shows. If you have done it, I'd appreciate any advice that would help make the job easier

Sorry, I do not...I leave this type of stuff to my LBS. In fact, when it comes to special projects designed to clean up my bike, wires etc, I will only take my bike to certain LBS as for some, itbis over their head.

Got a used set of these basebars coming, will have to figure out what extensions to put on

Zipp Vuka Aero

wait what??? Magura on Ventus?

---

Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

That set up didn’t last long, but why not??

Are there aero benefits to the magura brake cover if it isn’t being used with the Aduro bar and other p5-6 parts (ie I have a rt6 in my P2 with a Different Aerobar and wonder if buying the cheap cover would offer me any aero benefit?

in reality no. But if it was me, for 30$, a little pray paint and a fun special project, i would put them on and make the bike look very cool and mean. But it wont gain you time.

---

Jonathan Caron / Professional Coach / ironman champions / age group world champions
Jonnyo Coaching
Instargram

Looking very cool and mean is always a bonus!

My P3 serves me well:


2015 Cervelo P3
Shimano Dura-Ace 11-spd mechanical
Quarq Elsa GXP
ISM Adamo Race
Zipp Vuka Stealth
Magura hydraulic brakes; RT8 levers and RT6 calipers
Arundel Chrono (frame), XLab Delta 225 (BTS), Zipp Vuka BTA with Quickview and Garmin Edge 520 (BTA)
Dark Speed Works Speedpack 483D
Von Drais Race Number Plate
Flo 90 Aluminum rear with Catalyst cover, 24mm Continental Force, latex tube and Silca valve extender
Flo 60 Carbon Clincher front with 23mm Continental GP 4000s II, latex tube and Silca valve extender

Thank you for this morsel!

Can you help me understand how to install the cover over the Magura RT6 on a P3 frame?

I’ve purchased the covers and see three screw holes on each, but don’t understand how to attach the cover to the brake. Is there an internal mounting bracket that attaches the cover to the brake? If so, is that part sold separately?

Edit, found it: https://www.excelsports.com/...major=11&minor=2

Scott

What about a custom bike painting job?

Wont add any watts but will make you LOOK faster!

Anyone know how to do this on a carbon frame?

Is the original length of cable/housing that is already on the bike sufficient, or did you need a new length of cable/housing to route it this way?

I had to buy new cable housing. I will say some of this seems to be brake lever dependent as well. I had a profile design carbon set (don't remember the exact name, but not the stock ones on the bike) and they were kind of mushy so I switch to DA levers and it was significantly better. Additionally, I also live in Florida and rarely go screaming downhill so stopping power needed is relative. I raced IM 70.3 Augusta without any issues on downhills.

I have the same bike and looking back at what I did I would recommend the cockpit next for you and then the omega brakes.

I went with a Zipp Vuka Stealth bar so I could hide all the wires and junction box which cleans it up perfectly. The TriRig bar gets a lot of praise here and I'm sure it's great but twice the costs and Zipp looks better in my opinion. Someone has a Vuka Stealth listed on the classifieds right now I think. It's pretty adjustable so you'll be able to get into whatever position you need. At that point you'll have one of the fastest setups and all that will be left is to just do the work.

If you want any pics just PM your email or phone and I can email/text them to you.

All the best!

I treated myself to TriRig alpha x aerobars and omega x brakes for Black Friday. I’ve never done too much work on my own bike, but have a mechanical background and a need for a new hobby. I figured I would just re-route the rear brake cable as I do the other work, so I was just wondering if I could use the existing cabling/housing. I have di2, so I know I can use all of that same wiring.

No longer have it, but I did this on my old NP2...

Either get new housing and loop it inside the frame - there is plenty of space behind the head tube for a substantial loop. If you want to reuse the housing you should remove the grommet so you can have more of a straight shot - but then you'll want to do something to protect the housing from rubbing the sides of the hole (and then id suggest modifying a PD/Torhans bento to sit flush behind the stem and cover it all up).

EDIT: If you have di2 you probably have the DA levers? If so, those are a MAJOR upgrade over the PD levers that come on a NP2

Yeah definitely the DA levers, night and day difference. Didn't realize this post was old someone awoke it and I didn't follow that part. Appreciate the reply.

Here’s a quick post of a recent upgrade on the front end of my P2. PD aeria stem (100m to hide the SRAM Force AXS blipbop) w/TR front brake and aero routed rear brake cable...I’ll be sure to post a final build of this to a 1x system soon.

https://drive.google.com/...bN/view?usp=drivesdk

Has anyone ever figured out a different way to route the rear brake cable at the front of the bike? I *hate* having it go on the side, and now that I have 3t aduro bars I'm wondering if I can shoot the brake cable through them down the top tube then out the back

---

Gone with the wind

Instagram: palmtreestriathlon

I put mine through the center hole and out the back.

To seal the opening I just filled it with RTV.

Yeah, I hear you brother. I just built my bike up (Alpha One), and ran into that conundrum. It's clear from other people's pictures that plenty of people have routed the rear brake through the topside cable port. In my case it'd require drilling out the small bulkhead behind that port. I wasn't quite ready to get the Dremel out on a new frameset, so haven't done that yet, but probably eventually will.

My wife has a P2 (she likes it.....I hate it and the stupid horizontal dropouts). If you don't mind the crappy cockpit a very nice upgrade for less is the Profile Design Aeria Hydration System and Stem. P2 BTA choices are not that good but he PD system makes that problem go away. Also the stem helps with the cable management which is also a PITA on the P2.