They are actually cheaper on Steep and Cheap since they are running a $40 off $200 deal today.

I always find it interesting how much the price fluctuates between competitive cyclist, backcountry, and steep and cheap.

They are all the same company. Shipping via Steep and Cheap was $6 more expensive than CC until I added the coupon, then the price jumped by another $15. Not liking the fact that if I add a coupon the price of shipping jumps... Even though the are all owned by the same company, CC has the much better return policy. You can actually return used gear if you don't end up liking it for store credit.

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Backcountry is actually the cheapest if you use the cash back site activejunky. They have 9% off at backcountry vs. 4% at steepandcheap. Plus I think you have to pay for shipping at steepandcheap.

Thanks for the tip. I've been using ebates and it looks like activejunky gives you more back on all the sites I use for most of my hobbies.

What the difference between the 6 Plus and 5 Plus set? I had never seen a 'plus' version of the 5. Is it really the same rim width and tubeless compatibility with a marginally more shallow rim fairing? If so, the Powertap 5 Plus for $200 more is also pretty amazing.

The 5 Plus is fairly new. Both are same width (25mm wide rims) but the difference is a "5" is a 54mm depth and the "6" is a 60mm depth. Also the "6" you can get in Stallion build but "5" you couldn't (at least previously you couldn't with it was still a 23mm C2 version...not sure about now.

Thanks. It seems odd that it's 'fairly new' in the old color scheme and non-turbine track. I figured it was maybe a one-off project that they did for some retailers. I'm enjoying my Swiss Side Hadrons for tri/tt, but would like better tubeless compatibility and shallower wheels for my road bike.

Yeah I am not sure about the 5+. They haven't been listed on HED's own website in forever. Regardless if you need power and want HED it is not a bad way to go.

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How does the HED wheelset with PowerTap compare to say a pair of Reynolds Strike? Just curious.

I have a link to a comparison of some of the benefits I that exist going with HED in my signature. I guess I will flip it around, can someone provide benefits to the Strikes over the HED Jet+. There are really no benefits, only drawbacks.

In short HED is as light with better braking via aluminum, less concern of brake track failure, less risk of using latex tubes due to heat build up of carbon, wider rim bed offering lower pressures which lead to better handling wheel that is more comfortable. Superior aerodynamic design. Reliability of HED and their engineering focus as a wheel first company. At $950 that is tough to beat. Looking at Flo they end up being nearly a full lb lighter.

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That's a phenomenal deal. Get a set of those and a wheel cover and you're set.

Yea. Now I have to make a decision.

Do I transfer my existing PowerTap into the Hed 6 or buy the Hed Jet 5+ with PowerTap?
If I transfer the PowerTap - then I have have to lace up the Reynolds Strike with a hub, which would cost additional monies.

Really would like the Hed 6's, not sure why, lol

Where would one get a cover for the Hed wheels? From Hed or another company?

Sell your PowerTap and buy the HEDs. I very strongly discourage trying to lace a PowerTap into a set of Jets.

The holes in the fairing of the Jet is drilled for the HED hub. The spokes may not enter correctly with a different hub.

Best case scenario: it will be a pain in the ass to lace, carefully aligning the spokes through the Jet fairing.

Worst case: The holes don't line up and the spokes tear through the fairing.

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Alex Arman

Strava

Thanks for the heads up, I see for $150 more (same site) I could get the reynolds 72/90 Aero set. Wouldn't those wheels be faster in an Ironman?

It is almost never a good financial decision to move over a PowerTap from wheel to another. You can get a disc cover from Wheelbuilder

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Thanks Thomas! Can you expand as to why? Assuming because one has to lace it up which requires new spokes, etc, etc. Might be time to abandon a PowerTap hub and move to their pedals.

You likely have a BackCountry/CC account rep assigned to you, even if they haven't reached out directly. If you don't know who it is, call them and ask. If they've emailed you, I would recommend emailing them before making any purchase.

I've been getting more into practical application of gains versus theoretical. It is impossible to say for each individual what is the best setup without knowing way too many parameters including conditions on race day that you really have no idea about.

The HED JET 6+ is arguably up there with the best wheels aerodynamically based on independent wind tunnel data. Unfortunately we don't get to see a lot of Reynolds data but I would suspect the differences are very small. The practical application part comes in with things like braking. Learning to brake later in a corner, and aluminum is a better material to do that with than carbon, and that can save you time but nobody ever talks about. So can being more confident on a wheel for that matter and lower tire pressues of a 21mm internal versus 16mm could result in less vibration to the body and thus better running over the marathon.

When it comes down to it. If I coached athletes and they came to me and side I can purchase this or that. I would definitely recommend the JET 6+. I don't think they are going to be an slower, I actually think they will be faster, run better, be less stressed, and won't have to worry about swapping out the braking pads before the race.

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I already have a set of HED JET+ plus a Disc as well. Definitely don't need anymore wheels at this point.

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It is expensive and/or time consuming to build wheels if you have done it before. You are basically taking two perfectly good wheels that were built with TLC and bringing them back to bare rims. You would need new spokes, and then rebuild. There is just no way you are coming out ahead in the scenario financially or time wise. The only time it might make sense to take out a PT is if the rim is damaged and you had another rim to build it on to. Tearing down a perfectly good rim/wheel is usually always money-sucking endeavor.

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You're assigned rep can be useful. Mine has provided discounts on things when a coupon didn't apply, etc.

I emailed mine today. I mentioned that his sale price wasn't as good as BikeTiresDirect. He didn't just match it, he beat it by a bunch.

only problem i've had with those wheels is that it is extremely tough to mount tires or change out a flat

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“I’m not going to stop yelling because that would mean, I lost the fight!” Kenny Powers

Every mention of these wheels you get this kind of post.

Have you ever watched the video on how to mount tires on these wheels put out by Hed?

I have 2 pairs of these and if you follow the instructions keeping the bead in the center channel of the rim tires can be mounted with your fingers, no tools needed.

You just have to watch the video.

These are great wheels.

Does anyone know how often Competive Cyclist has the Hed Jet 6s on sale at this price? A few times throughout the year?

Agree completely. Never have issues mounting tires. Heck I installed my TT and SS with no tire lever last night. Just push the bead of the tire to the middle and work your way around! Also makes sure you don't pinch flat since the tube will be fully in the tire!

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I am not able to install on my Jet+ without a lever. And yes I can guarantee I made sure the bead is centered. One thing I noticed on the HED video is the guy wrapped all the way around his hand to the inside of the rim for extra leverage. Which is fine for the Ardennes he used as an example but not possible with a Jet or a Disc. I was too scared to damage the fairing trying to get more leverage to get that last section on. This is with a used GP4K and a new II version couldn't do get it done without levers.

My other rims I have no issues except with a trainer tire is the same way too.

Last year they had a similar pattern. Regular price about $1100 but would go on sale every once in a while for $999 or something close. At one point in October they dropped down to $749 but I don't think it lasted very long.

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It is definitely harder to get tires on rim but I don't think that is necessarily a bad thing. Zipps were all notoriously easier, so easy that in a flat, the tire would just come right off the rim and then you are skating on the rim. I think the tire being harder to get off at least adds a little extra protection and security. I think of as insurance, the premium is a little extra time install. With that being said, none of the Conti tires are that much harder to mount IMHO. The only problem tire I have come across is some of the Vittoria Corsa Speed and I'll use the Kool-Stop bead jack to help with that.

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I agree with this 100%

I have watched the video, and I have mounted 3 sets of tires on these wheels, i dispute the "mounted with fingers" comment. Its not impossible, just more difficult than every other wheel i have ever owned. And yes i do use the center channel. Also, the fairing makes a relatively loud noise on every bump in the road.

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If only they had the disc version on sale...

You could always pick up a wheel builder cover. Personally I picked up my Jet+ Black Disc for about 900 which I thought I was decent.

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I just ordered these. Thanks for the heads up! As far as tyres... 23 or 25mm? Rolling on a 2016 Felt IA3

For racing I would go 23 up front and 25. Remember the wideness of the rims will already blow out a tire. A 23 will measure 25-27 and a 25mm could measure 28-30mm

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I got these for 899 last year. It was an amazing buy. The fairing is certainly thin compared to others, but it's been no issue.

In terms of changing tires, it's certainly the most difficult rims I've ever changed a tube on. After a long change on a cold day during a group ride, I practiced. The bead in the center works, but the dip in the center of the rim is so small. You have absoltely got to start from the opposite side of the valve stem and continually double check that it stayed in place. After practicing a few times, I could get the wheel off the bike and back on with a new tube in under 5 minutes. Only needed one lever to get the tire off. Nothing to get it on.

These are currently on sale for $815 on Steep and Cheap. Couple that with an extra 4% cash back from ActiveJunky and you've got a heck of a wheelset at a great deal.

https://tv.xfinity.com/.../7864184700987210112

We discussed this at the top of the post. Actually when this was posted the campy version was $1199, they have SINCE dropped the Campy version below the Shimano so that is the price for Campy which I assume most people don't want in the first place.

The price is both $949 on CompetiveC and SteepAndCheap for the Sram/Shimano version. They are both owned by the same company, BackCountry. CC has lower shipping price and better return policy.

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can someone teach me on the difference between stinger and jet? for my all around roadie wheel - think stinger would be better as jets fairings are rather thin? do i get that correctly?

The Stinger is a tubular, the Jets are clincher. Unless you are really particular (tubie-snob) the majority of people ride clinchers because of the vast improvements of clinchers and clincher tires over the years. That would leave you with the Jets.

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Thomas would you have any data on this? Rim width vs tire width vs tire pressure?

My Cervelo S5 has very tight tolerances with respect to inflated tire width and I'm not sure I can risk the HEDs! Bought a calipers on Amazon last week and I'm waiting to do some exact measurements before I pull the trigger.

I'd love to pull the trigger on these - fast, tubeless ready, good for maintenance, but a recommended weight limit of 190?

Looks like I might have to save for a bit longer and go H3+.

OK, a LOT longer.

Canyons are doing 25% off Zipp 303s and 404s. Do they run narrower than the HEDs?

My 2016 PR6 has OEM Reynolds Strikes. Having owned the original version of the Strikes years ago, and now having about 8 months on this newer version, I can say definitively that the new Strikes are much improved in overall performance, but particularly in the area of braking and heat buildup. I just returned from a trip out west where I did some fair amount of climbing and descending on roads that were somewhat technical descents, especially on a tri bike. The braking only became an issue once and that was when I overshot a decreasing radius turn and needed to really scrub speed. But mostly it was adequate. By fortune of the weather, I have not had opportunity to ride them extensively in wet conditions.

And that experience lends support to Thomas's statements above. As good as current carbon rim braking is, it is still a long way from the confidence of a good aluminum rim braking. When I had the original Strikes, I also had a set of Hed Alps. If it was wet or if the course was technical at all, I would opt for the Alps. After this trip out west, I think I'll be opting for a pair of Hed aluminum rim wheels again.

Of course, the carbon rim squeal does help tremendously in clearing out the errant pedestrians from the bike lane while descending our local bridge here in Charleston, SC. ;-) So the Strikes have that going for them.

this doesn't directly answer your question but the newest HED Jet wheels have a max tire/tyre psi of 90. This is true for both the rim brake and disc brake HED Jet 6+ wheels.

The older Jet 6+ wheels (2015?) that I own have a max psi rating of 100.

Good to know! Thanks! I usually run 80-90 anyway. So I guess I'm wondering what 23c Conti GP4s run at width-wise at 85psi on a 24mm rim

There are two measurements. First there are the internal measurements. Zipp 404 Firecrest is 16.25mm, while HED JET+ is 21mm. The brake track however is very similar. HED is 25mm and Zipp is 24.73mm

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Good to know on that feedback. I might be overly harsh sometimes on other manufacturers but I have bought the majority of my wheels used when I an amatuer and always got great prices compared to new, 50%. Even now as a pro, I have bought new wheels from companies because the real is price is actually so much lower than the sticker price. It is just hard for me to look past companies like Zipp and HED when I get their wheels pretty cheaply. Even last year, I sold a set of ENVE 7.8 SES with full carbon hub and ceramic speed bearings. Raced only a couple of times. I was astonish how hard it was to sell the wheels for $2k. The buyer got a fantastic deal on wheels he had within 7 days. Unless they come on a bike it is tough to shell out for anything but the most respected brands.

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Thanks Thomas, that's what I figured. I guess the only way to really know is to try and find someone with the same wheels? I can't find that article on tire choices but will the 23c tire at 85psi be wider on the Zipps or HEDs? I'm usually good at math but it's been a long day!

The tires will be wider on HED. For instance an old Supersonic 23mm could measure a tad over 23mm on Zipp and could between 24.5 and 26.5mm depending on how worn the tire is. As the tire is used the air pressure gradually expands the size of the tire.

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Hey I noticed on Hed site, these are not recommended for riders over 200lbs. Is there a similar tire that would be more appropriate for someone at 205, and would these be ok for training and racing, or are these only for racing.

They make a stallion build with more spokes for heavier riders and that is what HED wants you to buy. Keep in mind that HED tends to be a very conservative company and is a big part of why they never went to carbon clinchers in the first place. I would love to see a comparison of various companies wheels and their weight limitations. I would bet there are few companies who wheels couldn't support as much weight as HED without a disclaimer.

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They might not be on sale, but HED makes a "stallion" build (with more spokes) of these wheels that's intended for heavier riders...

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I really wish there where a uniform standard for this. I know that all will be different since the style of riding, bike frame, securing options, etc will all differ but there has to be some sort of uniform code that could be put in place for if not a weight recommendation, a scheduled wheel checkup recommendation for testing trueness, spoke contact points and the like based off mileage and/or weight.

I believe Mavic doesn't really put up weight limits on their wheels but they do suggest increased checks with greater rider weight. I wish all wheel manufacturers would do something similar in the least instead of just setting an artificial line of no return.

I don't really have an answer, maybe Dan does, but I think this is just where the engineers, lawyers, risk-management, and product liability people intersect. As it stands there are always companies that are more conservative and those that are less. Not sure on HEDs decision and frankly I don't follow the weight restrictions as much as I am under the weight, but it seems like risk-mitigating strategy for HED. I am sure the extra skus complicates the business and is less cost effective than one line for all.

Regardless, rider weight is just one piece of the weight puzzle, then there is always the weight that one hauls and the variance between different bikes can be a quite a bit as well. In my case, on my commuter that can be a lot of extra weight.

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Here is how I do it.

1. Mount 1 side / complete bead in the rim center channel.
2. Put the tube in carefully, tucking it into the tire for the whole circumference of the tire.
3. Dont fully seat the valve stem, and begin at the valve stem slowly insert the second bead of the tire into the center channel, making sure the tube is centered between the beads, and both beads are centered in the channel.
4. when you get to that last little 4-6 inch stubborn section of the second bead, go back to the valve stem and push the tire all around the wheel with both hands toward your stubborn part. You have to work the tire around the rim toward the last section. If the valve stem is at 12 o'clock, and the stubborn part is at 6 o'clock, work the tire around pushing it toward the 6 o'clock.
5. Then the last 4-6" of tire goes on with just your fingers. For me this works every time.

Question - I have 2 pair, a 6/9+ and a pair of 6+ only.

I have used each for racing and occasional training rides, and each pair has about 400 miles.

Thomas G and Tom A or other who have used these:

How many miles have you put on them? How have they held up and if you have had to true them how have you done that?

I was thinking of turning my 6+s into training wheels but only if they will last 1000s of miles with little maintenance.....

I would probably heed the weight limit...I am fairly sure HED "regular" builds used to be up to 225 pounds because when I bought them I didn't think twice about doing so and I was around 200 whereas Flos, I always go Clydesdale version...which tells me (and yes I'm totally speculating here) that either they changed their design or something happened to (or threatened lawsuit or the like) a heavier rider 205-220 pound rider on the older version that caused them to re-think the posted weight limit.

o

I am not either of the ones you asked but I have been using my Jet6+ with PT hub for my training and racing for the last 4 seasons and just took it in to get it trued this week. It was barely off but just wanted to get it done so my brakes could be set closer because my Felt DA rear brake is not that great. I would have no issues using them as training wheels.

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I just bought a set of these for Shimano for $850 shipped from Backcountry.com. There's a coupon code for 15% off when you first visit the web site, which made the wheels around $800 and then $50 shipping. Not sure if this is the absolute cheapest deal out there, but FYI.

and you should probably be able to find another 5-10% or so in cash back from activejunky or ebates

Sorry I missed this last month...

I currently have ~9000 miles of nearly everyday use on my Jet 6+ Blacks, and the front has never needed to be touched. The rear has needed to be re-trued twice:

1. Once after hitting the edge of a pothole with one side of the rim bead so hard that that it bent the bead and instantly sliced/blew out the tire. The great thing about it being an aluminum-based rim is that I was able to save the rim by gently bending the bead back into place. A carbon rim would've been destroyed. That said, I decided to try "saving" the rim this way instead of taking advantage of the crash replacement offer from Hed (which IIRC is ~$300 for a rim replacement, which isn't too bad actually). After straightening the bead, the wheel was still slightly out of true, so that was re-truing #1.
2. The second time (and actually only ~2 weeks later) was after a rider slid out in front of me in a turn, then me hitting him and going OTB and fracturing my pelvis. In this case, the bike went over the top of me, landed on the saddle and cartwheeled down the road. The wheels, and the bike (steel, yay!) were mostly undamaged (had to replace saddle and carbon handlebars) but again, the rear was only slightly out of true. Re-truing #2.

Other than those 2 events, no other issues. Bearings and freehub are still running smooth...and the Black Turbine brake track is still as black as the day I bought them.

So, based on that experience, I would have NO hesitation in recommending the Jets for "everyday" use. About the only thing I'd do different, and I mentioned it in a thread yesterday, is I probably would go for the 28h "stallion build" rear wheel if I had to do it over...but, that's mostly because of the chainstay mounted brake on my custom Stinner. The stock 24h rear wheel is just a bit too flexible to prevent an ever so slight brake rub when climbing out of the saddle with that wheel. All rear wheels I've used in that bike that are 28h or greater don't rub at all.

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It is a good price, I noticed they dropped the Campy version down to ~$750 which means might say a ratchet down of the Shimano as well.

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FYI.....Use code 15OFF100 and you can save 15% off of them at Backcountry, and there is free shipping right now.

So you can get them for 806$

Yep and I got email CompetitveCyclist this morning that they have a similar 15% coupon offer as well going on but it is: CC15OFF100 (expires 8/22).

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Thanks for the heads up on this. 666+shipping for Campy! This has got to be the first time in memory that Campy was actually cheaper. Looking forward to getting rid of carbon brake tracks and joining the wide wheel crowd.

You won't be disappointed. I rock the 25mm gatorskins with latex and they are dreamy. I am sure it would be even better with GP4000s but I don't need that much advantage against my training partners.

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Has anyone who purchased the Hed Jet 6's through Competitve Cyclist's current sale managed to also get free shipping? I called them and was told wheels are considered bulk shipping and don't qualify for free shipping. They said this would be same on Backcountry.com as well.

Does anyone know if similar sales ever come up for the Stallion build? Would love to get these but at 235 I think I would be pushing it.

I don't think so. They also increased the shipping cost if you use the coupon as well if you didn't notice. When it comes down to it, this is a serious offer to begin with. This is actually much cheaper than even a pro athlete would get for a pro-deal direct from HED and CC has to pay advertising, referral fees, etc as well, and they themselves are a middle man. If you think about it, versus the direct FLO model, you wonder how anyone is making any money on this. Maybe this is part of a strategy by HED to get more wheels on the road and sell more wheels later on whether it be 9s, Discs, Black, etc.

I have no idea, but I do know that ever since I bought my first HED+ wheel, I have fell in love with wide rims. I have since bought 4 more wheels from them, but I liked the 6+ so much I opted to ditch the HED H3+ as I didn't see a day I would use it over the HED Jet 6+

If you really think about it too, these HED use more raw materials, come with better accessories (rim tape) vs (rim strips) and shipping wheels has gotten much more expensive as of late in general.

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No stock of trispoke front wheels on any of these sites, bummer. Was looking for a deal on one to use for windy races.

I got free shipping on backcountry a while back. they had a deal for free shipping on anything over $50. It didn't show up at first, so I emailed. They fixed it to free shipping. Now this was almost exactly a year ago , but it was when they went down to 899 for a little while.

My H3+ tri-spoke handles worse in wind than my Jet+ 9, I wouldn't buy a tri-spoke to get better handling in the wind, you'll be disappointed (it's a great wheel when you're not dealing with crosswinds, though).

Compared to an 808 though ?

I got them when they were $949 with free 2 day shipping. I didn't go through activejunky, but the gearhead I had on backcountry gave me 10% store credit. I'd rather take the 15% off now with activejunky's cash back than the free shipping I got.

Thanks for the feedback. One last question......Are you aware of any issues with these wheels fitting a 2010 Cervelo P2 with ultegra brake calipers?

I noticed it changed from $29 to $39 when I was checking out with the coupon, but also noticed it switched to Standard shipping ($39) instead of the Economy ($29), so just clicked Economy and it went back to $29. I ordered the Campy and total was $695 with shipping using the 15% off code. (Received $20 Ebates, so total was right at $675.) Seems like a smokin' deal to me. This will be my first set of wide rims and came on here to see some reviews and just saw this thread. Looks like a good set of wheels for the price. :)

I would guess that most of the recent 808s (FC and later) are better in a cross wind than a TriSpoke. Zipp designs for this whereas the TriSpoke designers probably never thought about it. My understanding is the spoke profile has not changed since the original design in the early 90s

Interesting. I guess my question though is what is faster ?

From HED website:
"The H3 has propelled more Grand Tour riders to the podium than any other wheel. Why? The H3 is the ultimate in all wind conditions. Whether it is a headwind, crosswind, or tailwind, the H3 is fast. Other wheels (even our own) are certainly speedy, but they have a specific wind range in which they excel. The H3 offers speed no matter where the wind is, with a very consistent drag curve as yaw increases. The pros know this, and many count on it as their no-compromise TT wheel choice.

The H3 is available in either full carbon tubular, or a clincher version with alloy braking surface. Both feature the same blade shape and 55mm deep rim section. The narrow rim profile means that the H3 works in even the narrowest TT frames. It’s also the perfect wheel for frequent travelers, with no metal spokes to crush, and a very slim and bike-box-friendly shape."

The H3 is older and works best with very narrow tires, the H3+ is new and designed with wider tires in mind.

With the being said the Jet 6+ is so versatile. It is about 200 grams lighter too. Training, crits, road races, time trailing, triathlon, windy, no wind. Just easy and simple

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What tire do you run on your H3+?

From my experience as I went to a narrower tire, the handling improved. I'm currently a 20mm SS on my H3+, and this so far has been the best setup on this wheel for me.

The H3+ was designed around a Conti 22mm Attack tire. While this is wider than a 19mm tire, especially considering it will measure around 25mm on the H3+, I wouldn't go any larger than a 23mm tire on the rim due to how wide the rim is internally. My current tire of choice is the 20mm SS which measures around 24mm at 80psi.

I've been running the (new) SS 20mm, but I might have had an 22mm Attack on it the one time I rode in bad weather (can't remember for sure).

Don't get me wrong, I like the wheel, I just don't think cross-wind stability is a reason to buy one. I use it for low-yaw situations, and if it's really windy I run my Jet+.

Are you racing the 20mm at 80psi. If I may ask, what is your weight? Any issues? I run my HED very low but for wider tires than 20mm

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Yes, I race them at 80psi. Weigh 140lbs. I haven't had any issues so far with that tire on that rim. You can see a picture of that tire on the H3+ here.

My guess is that in low yaw applications the old H3 and H3D are fastest IF you can find the right tire. The new SS 20 is a mm or two wider than the second gen SS 20 and the first Gen SS seems to have a somewhat higher Crr.

The possible advantage of the TriSpoke is in a savings of watts-to-spin over a spoked wheel. There is some limited data out there for this component of drag, but people have used different methods and some of it is proprietary, though I think you can purchase data from BikeTechReview. Aeroweenie has a summary of the one published study I am aware of, I am a bit scepital of that study because the numbers seem awfully high at a savings of 10 watts, though I got Chris Yu to sort say that the study's estimate of 10 watts to spin for a disc was about what they found. The final thing to consider is fork/wheel interactions. Zipp did some testing and claimed that the preassure pulse from the wide spoke passing through the fork caused more drag that isn't accounted for in most wind tunnel testing. Bikes with wide fork legs like the SC and Pinarello are supposed to be better according to urban legend. Another issue is frame/brake choice. I will continue to use the old narrow H3 on my nosecone Shiv because that frame was never designed for wide rims. Any rim wider than 20mm forces the brake arms to hang out in the wind, which increases frontal area and ruins the airfoil shape of the nosecone.

These are a list of issues to consider and opinions are like belly buttons, everybody has one. I kinda look at what the ProTour guys are doing. I figure they have the time and resources to figure out what is really the fastest. Lots of teams put their GC guys on Trispokes even when they have other wheel sponsors. I am bike shopping for next year and you will probably see me on an SC with a H3+/Corsa TLR or Conti SS.

Thanks for the solid info. I'll take your narrow H3 off your hands if you want after you upgrade. I'm on a 2015 BMC TM01 and running 808 up front and old SS 23mm until I run out. Would like to experiment with the trispoke. Plus I think it looks badass.

I'm 99% sure you can do this, but wanted to verify. I know the wheelset is 11speed hub, I'm currently running 10s on my road bike and wanted to get them for that. I can use these by just adding a spacer to the hub, correct?

The wheel set comes with spacers for use with a 10 speed cassette.

Perfect! Thanks for letting me know.

I neglected to mention that. It also comes with real rim tape instead of a rim strip. This is needed for both tubeless but also my preferred method to use with latex tubes if you go that route. Skewer and the spacers as well. Not sure about an additional set of brake pads. Can't remember them being in there when I got my HED JET 6+

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...and the Jet 6+ fits on 2017 Speed Concepts, I assume.

I would assume so, I have a 2014 Speed Concept (first year 2nd gen) and they work beautifully. They are actually a heck of lot narrower than Roval CLX 64 and those still work as well.

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DAMN IT-

Put a set in my cart at work yesterday, got sidetracked, went back today to buy them and now sold out...

Well it was fun while it lasted.

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They are up again. I was in the same boat. I ordered from backcountry because i got 7% back with activejunky. They showed they had 5 sets left when I ordered around noon. They are showing 4 sets left now.

Thanks...ordered thru http://www.biketiresdirect.com with their price match and after seeing your post I called them to make sure they would honor their price match, was surprised that they balked and said they couldn't match it-kinda bullshit and will rethink ordering anything from them again...that being said, I ordered via Competitive Cyclist, thansk again for letting us know it was back up!

John Potter

Guess I snoozed and lost on this one. Only showing Campy left. Maybe next year.

FYI, back to $880 via CC

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Thanks for the heads up, Thomas! :)

Thanks, got a set

Dan

You are welcome. Looks like they are now sold out again. A while back I asked HED what the deal was with CC when they ran out and they said CC had reordered a small amount more. No idea how they make it work financially and whether it is more of digital "door buster" item, but they can't seem to keep them in stock at that price. Let me know how they work out for you down the road. Always interested in feedback.

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I know this is last year's thread. I'm looking for new wheels this summer.

Probably HED Jet 6 set + disk cover, because it's a smarter choice. Or Jet 9 + disk, because YOLO.

Could you tell me a bit more about 'their usual seasonal discounting' on HED? Currently they have Jet 6+ wheelset for $1099, this is probably not it. When does it usually happen?

Usually any further discounting takes place at the end of the season. Memorial Day is often some of the best deals around. Their 21% off coupon this weekend would apply to a full price item like a jet disc. Otherwise at $1099 you still getting a great value wheelset.

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Take a peak at https://mybikeshop.com/.../hed-jet-6-plus.html

$1100 includes tires/tubes/cassette/wheel bags and this w/e triple points to be used later-and they are great guys...this deal can't be beat-other combos included...

Just ordered a set of Jet 4 plus last week through a local retailer... they honored the sale price on the HED website. I wanted the 4 rather than the 6. Super excited to get them and try them out.

Thank you, I didn't notice the free stuff included in the price. This does sound like a good deal. Pulled the trigger.

I bought 2 bikes from them, friends bought 3+bikes and wheel sets ($30K worth?)..it's a killer deal, I have my sights on a PR6 w/disk brakes that I will get through them...

Remember to look at the PSI limits on that set up-think it's about 85 max...

Pots4

that psi limit is not a limit they state that because HED does not want anyone under 300lbs riding those wheels at a higher psi, because they are wider and are made to allow you to go to lower psi. HED says those wheels will handle more psi just like a normal wheel. just a shame to not take advantage of the design

Nice. Glad you got hooked up from the LBS.

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What kind of tires, tubes, and cassette is included. I saw the promotion but I couldn't find the specifics. Any ideas?

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They have several choices. If you add the product to the cart, a selection menu allows to see the options.

When I ordered up my 6/9 combo, they let me substitute latex tubes and paid a small difference. They were fantastic to work with, even got a handwritten note.

Friend went with Conti 4000's...multiple options, including Gator-backs-go figure?

Get well TG, looking forward to seeing you back out there!

Pots4

Thanks for the kind words :)

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$949 at Inside Sports today (21 June 2018). https://www.insideoutsports.com/...im.html#.WyvtulVKiUk

HED had some of these left and we're able to pass along a great wheelset at a great price.

Note: Limited quantities so Buy Now! HED Jet 6
23mm Clincher Wheelset

Regular: $1599.99
Special Price: $949.99

Keep in mind those say HED JET 6, not the JET 6+

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