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Don Bowie - climber, endurance athlete and Slowtwitch reader
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This man has been on K2 and various other tough high altitude climbs, but he also can ride and run.

http://www.slowtwitch.com/...Don_Bowie__4853.html


Last edited by: Herbert: Jan 27, 15 12:07
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Re: Don Bowie - climber, endurance athlete and Slowtwitch reader [Herbert] [ In reply to ]
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That was a great article. Wow! He leads an exciting life.

David
* Ironman for Life! (Blog) * IM Everyday Hero Video * Daggett Shuler Law *
Disclaimer: I have personal and professional relationships with many athletes, vendors, and organizations in the triathlon world.
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Re: Don Bowie - climber, endurance athlete and Slowtwitch reader [david] [ In reply to ]
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I have always wanted to do some high altitude climbing, but somehow in the last 5 or so years it feels I have gotten afraid of heights, something I never had experienced prior.
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Re: Don Bowie - climber, endurance athlete and Slowtwitch reader [Herbert] [ In reply to ]
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Mountaineering is on my list of things to do as well, but I'm curious how to get started. It seems like it's a sport that takes a LOT of money - even compared to triathlon.
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Re: Don Bowie - climber, endurance athlete and Slowtwitch reader [Herbert] [ In reply to ]
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"it feels I have gotten afraid of heights"
. . . that, and I need more oxygen these days. And, responsibilities for which my wife (legitimately) limits the risks I take.

David
* Ironman for Life! (Blog) * IM Everyday Hero Video * Daggett Shuler Law *
Disclaimer: I have personal and professional relationships with many athletes, vendors, and organizations in the triathlon world.
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Re: Don Bowie - climber, endurance athlete and Slowtwitch reader [krez] [ In reply to ]
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This is what Don said about getting started.

ST: You are mostly known as a climber or alpinist. Can you talk to us how you got started with climbing and who or what inspired you?

Don: I started climbing organically as a teenager through my interest in the nature. Although I was a good athlete then, the mountains were more about wilderness experience then a venue for athletic pursuits. As time progressed I got into rock climbing and then ice climbing, then started climbing higher and harder peaks in the bigger ranges. One of the things you learn very quickly about high altitude is that your physical ability to acclimatize is something you can't train for- you either acclimate well or you don't. I just happen to have been one of the fortunate people who has the physiology to climb the highest mountains on earth without supplemental oxygen.
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Re: Don Bowie - climber, endurance athlete and Slowtwitch reader [krez] [ In reply to ]
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Mountaineering isn't very expensive. There are no ridiculous race fees. Occasionally a permit fee, but nothing in comparison.
Of course you can't count travel as an expense, you can always walk or take the bus.

Good news, the aerobic base that you've built by triathlon training will be useful.
Bad news, running and biking don't transfer well to climbing; e.g. to begin:
1. Place 20% of your body weight in a backpack (e.g. 40lbs+- even if you're not Clydesdale).
2. Step up, step down on that plyometric jump stool raised 12" to 16" inches off the ground.
3. Repeat 1,000x.
4. Continue step up work outs, 3k, 5k, etc.
5. Be able to do consecutive days of 3k elevation gain with a weighted pack.

Congrats now you're mountain fit. Time to go find out how well your body acclimatizes:

1. Climb no more than 1,000' an hour
2. Check your blood oxygen content with a pulse oximeter
3. Rest, continue, etc.

For more info read Training for Alpine Climbing, by Steve House

You will find HRM devices and workout processing algorithms fail hopelessly to adjust for altitude. The higher you go, the lower your max heart rate gets--especially at very high altitudes, even after acclimatization--among other things; it's covered in the House book.

Remind yourself to enjoy it, as practioneers of the sport often define it:
"Mountaineering - slow walking uphill while not feeling very well."
Last edited by: Cooker: Jan 27, 15 19:13
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Re: Don Bowie - climber, endurance athlete and Slowtwitch reader [Cooker] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks. This is an incredible useful post!
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Re: Don Bowie - climber, endurance athlete and Slowtwitch reader [krez] [ In reply to ]
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Yup, ready to step up.
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Re: Don Bowie - climber, endurance athlete and Slowtwitch reader [krez] [ In reply to ]
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You can always start on Kilimanjaro, basically a walk up (no glacier). Or you can try Rainier. Try a great guiding service like IMG. If you want to just try it out you can rent much equipment needed from them. In my opinion, unless you are going to go all out and purchase everything, climbing is actually less expensive than triathlon.
Usually they want you to obviously be in good shape and at least have some backpacking experience.
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Re: Don Bowie - climber, endurance athlete and Slowtwitch reader [Herbert] [ In reply to ]
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awesome.

maybe she's born with it, maybe it's chlorine
If you're injured and need some sympathy, PM me and I'm very happy to write back.
disclaimer: PhD not MD
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Re: Don Bowie - climber, endurance athlete and Slowtwitch reader [Herbert] [ In reply to ]
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Very interesting interview. Whilst his bike/run feats are impressive, I am fascinated by his high altitude adventures. High altitude climbing is a world that I have no interest in experiencing, but love reading about. It was a nice change to read about something related but different than SBR.

Thanks Herbert.

Will
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Re: Don Bowie - climber, endurance athlete and Slowtwitch reader [Herbert] [ In reply to ]
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Very, very cool. I had the privilege to meet Don's partner on K2, Chris Warner, and receive some basic ice climbing and mountaineering instruction from him. It was a humbling experience: these guys combine amazing fitness with incredible mental toughness. I can see where a mountaineer could also be quite successful at IM.
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Re: Don Bowie - climber, endurance athlete and Slowtwitch reader [Ty] [ In reply to ]
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As others mentioned, lots of good climbing schools that after a week or two can prepare you for something like Denali (aka Mt. McKinley). Gear can be expensive but you can rent a lot of stuff.

Rainier is a good entry but can be crowded and doesn't have a real "wilderness" feel. No shortage of good schools in the Pacific NW.
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