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lulu
Oct 4, 08 5:29
Post #1 of 20 (1337 views)
ManCave
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So....I'm going to be taking my unfinished basement and turning it into a bike storage / mechanics area / shrine to myself / mancave. One part of the basement has exposed dirt although most of it is cement flooring. My thought was simply to build some type of wall to section off the dirt portion but didn't know if I needed something else to prvent dust / dirt from attacking the bikes. Any thoughts? i have a pretty heavy duty dehumidifyer and was going to paint the cement floors with a sturdy hospital grade paint.
TriBodyboarder
Oct 4, 08 5:38
Post #2 of 20 (1325 views)
Re: ManCave [lulu]
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Two comments:
1. I'd consider paving over the dirt in the basement. Seems like a real potential problem with water seeping up, etc.
2. With a screen name like "lulu", and a topic like "mancave", a lot of things come to mind:)
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aarondavidson
Oct 4, 08 5:58
Post #3 of 20 (1294 views)
Re: ManCave [lulu]
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There are special stains for cement, I would use that, not some sort of hospital paint.
--
Aaron
triguy98
Oct 5, 08 5:11
Post #4 of 20 (1101 views)
Re: ManCave [lulu]
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Finish the cement and then do an exopy coating over the whole thing. I just coated the floor of my new garage and it's awesome. Dont use any sort of standard paint, it will not hold up.
swimfan
Oct 5, 08 5:49
Post #5 of 20 (1063 views)
Re: ManCave [lulu]
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I thought this was about something else ;-)
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I know I can't spell... This is not going to be graded so I don't care about the grammar either...
Herbie
Oct 5, 08 6:54
Post #6 of 20 (1005 views)
Re: ManCave [lulu]
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Excavate it and put in an endless pool.
bmanners
Oct 5, 08 7:54
Post #7 of 20 (941 views)
Re: ManCave [lulu]
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Put plastic down,4" of concrete and leave a 1/2" gap with gravel around sides of wall at a slight downward slope leading to a sump pump going outside. An extra 500.00 dollar investment will save you money in the long run and make your house healthier, drier (metal +water= rust) and more appelling to a buyer if you sell years from now. Also go with the endless pool. And never call it a mancave again.
Martin C
Oct 5, 08 8:08
Post #8 of 20 (921 views)
Re: ManCave [triguy98]
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Finish the cement and then do an exopy coating over the whole thing. I just coated the floor of my new garage and it's awesome.
Please explain in detail. I'm about to do the same. Like something dark and grippy to hide dirt/stains.
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lulu
Oct 5, 08 8:51
Post #9 of 20 (868 views)
Re: ManCave [bmanners]
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OK - manbasement, doghouse....ummmm den of freedom?
Thanks for all of the input! Is cement really necessary or would a breathable plastic material (not plasticine) work just as well as long as there was some type of dehumidifying going on. I've looking at this stuff as an option - not on the main floor area, just the portion with the exposed dirt:
http://www.aquaguard.net/..._and_crawlspaces.php
bmanners
Oct 5, 08 11:07
Post #10 of 20 (771 views)
Re: ManCave [lulu]
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I guess to cheap out just plastic and a dehumidifer would work. But I would definetly build a wall (100.00 - 150.00 if that in supplies. ) with metal studs and enclose that area. Also if you can connect the dehumidifer to a drain. It will get old dumping 2-3 times a day. Put the wives xmas ornaments in there and use as a storage closet.
swift
Oct 5, 08 12:12
Post #11 of 20 (724 views)
Re: ManCave [lulu]
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my buddy just put in a "clubhouse"
-Jason
I believe cars are the new second hand smoke. -Dave Zabriske
Zucharelli
Oct 5, 08 13:40
Post #12 of 20 (637 views)
Re: ManCave [swift]
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Do yourself a favor, hire an architect. Not that the advise here isn't well intended, but depending on where you liveht ,e ground conditions and soil composition, a design professional will save you a lot of money and effort when you have to redo it for the second time.
jime
Oct 5, 08 13:58
Post #13 of 20 (613 views)
Re: ManCave [Zucharelli]
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Yea, hire an architect, get some soil borings, get a permit, install a handicapped ramp, do an environmental study on the effects it will have on the snail darter, then get an interior designer to coordinate your color schemes. Then you can shit in your hat and you'll be all set.
I am a licensed contractor and I can give you an estimate for all of the above except the last item. You'll have to handle that one yourself. Good luck!
Zucharelli
Oct 5, 08 14:03
Post #14 of 20 (605 views)
Re: ManCave [jime]
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Yea, hire an architect, get some soil borings, get a permit, install a handicapped ramp, do an environmental study on the effects it will have on the snail darter, then get an interior designer to coordinate your color schemes. Then you can shit in your hat and you'll be all set.
I am a licensed contractor and I can give you an estimate for all of the above except the last item. You'll have to handle that one yourself. Good luck!
Nasy, nasty, nasty.
Now I know why so many contractors pour slabs and they get cracks, leaks and law suits.
Give me a break........
triguy98
Oct 6, 08 12:54
Post #15 of 20 (426 views)
Re: ManCave [Martin C]
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Here's a pic before I moved all my crap in:
dongustav
Oct 6, 08 13:01
Post #16 of 20 (394 views)
Re: ManCave [bmanners]
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the dehumidifier will cost you FAR more than $500 worth of concrete over the course of your time in the house. Think of the dirt floor like its a pool of water, and think of your house as a wick... the dirt floor will be forever pumping moisture up into your house and you'll be forever paying the electric bills to pull the moisture out of the air with your dehumidifier.
Herbie
Oct 6, 08 13:13
Post #17 of 20 (365 views)
Re: ManCave [Martin C]
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Finish the cement and then do an exopy coating over the whole thing. I just coated the floor of my new garage and it's awesome.
Please explain in detail. I'm about to do the same. Like something dark and grippy to hide dirt/stains.
I used the Rust-Oleum EPOXYShield in my gargage. The stuff is bulletproof and any spills clean up with a paper towel. Two words of advice: 1) Getting the floor clean is crucial. Scrub the floor, then use the acid they give you in the kit, then clean it again with water. I used my power washer. Give it time to thoroughly dry afterwards. 2) Wait a few days before you put anything on the floor. It may feel dry, but heavy objects may pull up the paint. The kit also came with decorative flakes that give some traction to the floor, but I skipped those. I just need to be careful if I bring a wet car in the garage.
Good luck!
bmanners
Oct 6, 08 13:23
Post #18 of 20 (333 views)
Re: ManCave [dongustav]
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Seemed like he just wanted a quick fix. I agree with you. Not to mention how much a pain it would be to dump everyday two or three times if you didn't directly pump out some other way. There is also a outside chance he would still need a dehumidifer even after concrete floor is done, depends on how high the water table is. How the landscape is pitched outside the walls of his house, or if the gutter down spouts direct the water away from the house. Eitherway concrete is the way to go.
triguy98
Oct 6, 08 17:17
Post #19 of 20 (210 views)
Re: ManCave [RH]
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I used the same stuff, but with the flakes. This is Florida, so I am going to be driving/ riding through rain about as often as not, so some grip on the floor was highly desirable. If my floor was to not have grip, it would have the second coat of the clear epoxy for some mega-shine.
jefeloco
Oct 6, 08 19:31
Post #20 of 20 (157 views)
Re: ManCave [lulu]
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Pretty much agree with dongustav and bmanners. Dehumidifying is fighting a losing battle.Do it right.
Do not leave any dirt exposed. Depending on your climate and grade of your house: if you are at any risk of flooding you need a sump pump. Otherwise, dig out a dirt until you are a foot below where you want the finished level to be. Backfill with 8" of gravel or grade 8 (crushed limestone), rent a vibrator or a hand tamper, pour 4" of concrete. If it is a small area, you can do it alone, but if you are in doubt, hire a guy...
Good luck!
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